Coating strike-anywhere matches; I coated them completely?

Hello,

I've a few containers of strike-anywhere matches that I've coated in wax. I bought boxes of the 'large' matches, selected those with the best heads, submerged them completely in melted wax, then let them cool on foil. I place about 15 of these plus a piece of waterproof sandpaper (in case there are no good striking surfaces) in a waterproof match case (I consider these matches water-resistant, not proof).

I read somewhere of a different method, where the person was only coating the heads in wax. I coated mine completely as I didn't think a wet matchstick would be too useful when the burning tip reached it. I don't see wax melting back towards my fingers being a concern..?

If anyone can see why the latter method may be better, please let me know.

(Will see about getting a cotton ball in with those matches to improve the value)

Thanks!

So do you break them free of the wax when you need them or can you strike them with the wax on them?

You may find that they actually work better fully coated, but you may have to scrape the wax off the head to get them to strike. I do (sometimes).

I would say dip the whole match. The wax coating may even help if being used for fire starting. The stick being wet could also weaken the draw when stricking.

You could also coat the heads and partial sticks in clear nail polish

Caveman Survival, I always feel strange when raiding my wife's makeup. I mean, I would if I ever did...never mind! =) I have plenty of candles though!

I would have posted sooner but shamed myself for having prepared these matches without testing them afterwards. Good work may not pay off if not confirmed...arg.

Anyway, a fully coated wooden match can be lit on waterproof sandpaper, you just waste the first few strikes removing wax from the match head. The wax isn't easily visible on my matches to be easily removed with fingernails so I think this method is fine as-is. The match burns well once lit, only showing a tiny bead of wax when the flame is halfway down the stick. I'd say the flame is larger than normal & burns faster as well. There isn't enough wax for there to be a risk of burning your fingers with wax running down the matchstick. (I removed any clumps of wax when I prepared these)

FYI, if you include a striking surface as I did, have the rough part facing inwards; waterproof sandpaper facing outwards in a coil resists being removed from the tube as the pressure of your finger gives it traction on the tube. I suppose if the match heads were against the sand paper and not waxed someone may consider it a risk, but with them waxed & at opposite ends I don't think so. (and the waterproof tube hasn't much oxygen even if they did light)

I've space for a cotton ball...would anyone add anything else instead?

Use Lacquer diluted 2:1 with thinner and dip halfway down twice. Works great. Dry on foil to avoid sticking.

Though this post is about matches, collect some dryer lint, put it in a small plastic snack bag and you have a good bit of tinder. I find it seems to work better than the cotton balls and vaseline.

Pardon the necro...

My grandfather's firestarters were a bundle of ten strike-anywheres, tightly bound tighether just behind the head, in the middle, and just before the end, in cotton thread, and the whole dipped in wood varnish, allowed to dry, and redipped. He'd put two or three of them in a tall pill bottle with a square of 800 grit sand paper, and two or three of the said bottles in his tackle box, or in a pouch or loop on his hunting vest. He said the varnish sealed the matchwood from acting as a wick for damp, and the pill
bottle could be used as a bobber when empty.

So far, it's all good. I've made some fire starters from toilet paper rolls cut in half, stuffed with drier lint, stapled the ends closed, and dunked in wax to seal them. I learned this when my son was in cub scouts. I think drier lint catches better than most other dry material...just my buck and a quarter worth input.

We used to dip our welding rods in urethane to make them waterproof (for welding underwater), probably work for matches too...