Signaling devices

[izzyscout21]

Since I did a review of the smoke grenades, I thought it would be a good idea to look a signaling devices. A thread dedicated to the smokes could only go so far, so I figure talking about the various means of signaling devices that you can carry with you would be more prudent. I tried to incorporate as many as I could think of and have had experience with. If you have any to add, feel free.

[izzyscout21]

The signal mirror is the most basic and best all-around signaling device. Compact and simple to operate, it has been successfully used for many rescues. While any shiny object can and has been used for signaling , a purpose made signal mirror is generally brighter and the best are much easier to aim.

In normal sunlight, the flash from a good signal mirror can easily be seen for 10 miles and generally the flash will be visible up to 50 miles, depending upon atmospheric conditions. The record rescue from one is 105 miles, at sea. A mirror will even work on bright overcast days and with moonlight, though with much reduced range. Many experts recommend carrying two as you can then more easily signal in a 360 degree sweep with a little practice.
An experienced user can signal up to 270 degrees, sometimes even a full 360 degrees if the sun is high, with a single mirror, but that is pushing it for most users. One mirror per person isn't such a bad idea.

[izzyscout21]

Fancy term, right?

Chemical lights, in the form of the familiar "Cyalume" or newer "Snaplight" light sticks, are often used by soldiers for backup lighting and included in survival kits as a light source .

The manufacturer, Omniglow Corp., also sells units specifically designed for survival signalling. The PML, Personal Marker Light, has a clip to attach the 12 Hour Green light to a person's life vest. The "S.O.S. Light," available in both 12 Hour Green and 5 Minute Ultra-High Intensity Orange, comes with a 28 inch lanyard attached to swing it in the air in order to make a more visible signal.

BUT....it's all relative..

The standard 8 and 12 hour light sticks are barely visible from a mile away, even when swung on a lanyard. These 8 and 12 hour lights would be fine if searchers were using night vision equipment. Their big advantage is that they last so long, all night in most cases. The 30 Minute High Intensity and 5 Minute Ultra-High Intensity light sticks are much better for signaling, being plainly visible from a mile away.

Note that all these chemical lights have a limited storage life. Expiration dates are marked on their packaging. Their performance goes quickly downhill after passing the expiration date. Also, bear in mind that exposure to air will adversely affect their life and after a few days' exposure they will not work at all. Thus it is critical that their airtight foil packaging be preserved when packing them into a kit or survival vest.

[izzyscout21]

A strobe light is effective at night and the best ones can be seen for up to 5 miles in ideal conditions. Visibility is less in many circumstances, however. Often substantially less. While blindingly bright at close range, they are surprisingly less bright from the air. This is because all that light is dispersed over an entire hemisphere, but with the majority directed vertically in most cases.

The biggest advantage of the strobes is that they operate for extended periods unattended. Even if the survivor is unconscious, the signal is sent. While not as bright as some other signalling devices, the rapidly flashing light does stand out against the dark, unlit background of the wilderness or open water and will be noticed by SAR if they come looking, but may not necessarily be noticed by passersby. With night vision equipment, it is very obvious, from many miles further out. Ironically, light fog or mist will make the strobe site much more visible, provided it isn't heavy enough or high enough to cut down air to ground visibility too much. Directing the strobe in the direction of searchers (remember, most of light is reflected vertically) helps increase visibility as does use of an improvised reflector. Don't forget extra battery(ies).

Note that operating life given by manufacturers represents minimum performance to meet specs at full brightness and flash rate. They will all operate at a diminishing rate for 2 to 4 times the rated life.

The ACR Electronics "Firefly 4F/4G" is a survival strobe with which many pilots are familiar. It is the civilian version of the mil-spec SDU-5/E and both units use the same proprietary battery.

Newer strobes offer the advantage of being less expensive, lighter and use regular alkaline, or better, lithium batteries. ACR's "Firefly 2" has replaced the Firefly 4/F/4G (and the SDU-5/E) using two AA-cell batteries. The military version is the The MS-2000(M) family. With lithium AA-cells it works even longer. MPI Outdoor's "Emergency Strobe" uses a single D cell battery. Both are USCG and SOLAS approved.

Not nearly as bright, but much smaller, is Tektite's "Mark-Lite Strobe." This single lithium AA-cell strobe can also be converted to a flashlight by exchanging the strobe unit for a reflector unit. It may be a viable choice where space is at a premium. Tektite also offers a larger "Strobe Torch" which runs in excess of 30 hours (at room temp) on 2 C-cell alkaline batteries. It also can be converted to a flashlight. The same unit is also available as an "F" model using 2 AA cells which give it about half the operating life. The tradeoff for the shorter operating time is that the "F" model floats.

ACR's "Firefly Plus" is a combination strobe and flashlight, located on opposite ends of the tubular body. It uses two AA-cells and is not type approved. At first glance this may seem like an appealing product, offering "two for one." It really isn't, because when you have need for either piece of equipment, in all likelihood, you need the other as well and it cannot be in two places at once.

The performance of all the mil. spec. and Coast Guard approved strobes is very similar. The choice comes down to price and packaging. The best value is the MPI "Emergency Strobe." The D-Cell makes it a bit bulky and cumbersome and lithium batteries, which I prefer, are somewhat difficult to locate in that size. My favorite is the ACR "Firefly 2" which offers a compact, flat and more easily packed form factor, but at a significant premium. It is a lot easier to install batteries in this unit than in the D-Cell units. Lithium AA size batteries are readily available. I also preferred the switch on the Firefly 2, deeming it the least likely to be turned on inadvertently.

Having said that, the least expensive effective performance for night signaling is obtained from the lowly flashlight. Directed light is generally more effective than when the light must cover all directions, as a strobe does. It requires far higher light output from a strobe to equal the effectiveness of a small flashlight wielded by a survivor. Even the smallest of the incandescent flashlights recommended in this text is visible at greater distances than the best commercially available survival strobe. However, it requires the user to operate the flashlight and flash it in the direction of searchers.

[izzyscout21]

A recently introduced innovation in nighttime signaling is the Laser Flare. This builds on the advantage of directed light as emitted from a flashlight by using a laser. The Laser Flare is much more effective than a typical handheld flashlight, is compact and long lasting. Its brightly colored flash is very distinctive. The down side is that it relatively expensive.

I have limited experience with these, so I'll leave it at that

[izzyscout21]

it's good insurance to carry a personal sized, manually operated beacon if you do a lot of backcountry trekking. In the past the choices were limited to 121.5 MHz beacons such as Emergency Beacon Corp's "EBC-102" (which I carried) or "B" class (manually operated) EPIRB (Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon), the marine equivalent to an ELT, such as ACR's "Mini-B2."
　
406 MHz distress beacons are a lot more effective, providing a much more powerful 5 watt signal and much more precise locating by the COSPAS-SARSAT satellites, along with personal identification. The 406 MHz beacon is particularly valuable outside the mainland U.S., especially near the equatorial regions and in the southern hemisphere where satellite coverage for 121.5 MHz isn't anywhere as good.

Each 406 MHz beacon must be registered, at no cost, with NOAA (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration), or your national authority if you live elsewhere in the world, who maintain the database for 406 MHz emergency beacons. Each 406 MHz beacon has a unique digital code, so search and rescue will be able to immediately know who owns the beacon.

[izzyscout21]

The whistle is a vastly underrated signaling device. Certainly, SAR flying overhead isn't going to hear it, but it may be heard by passersby or by ground search teams. A whistle is far superior to shouting, a virtually useless effort. The whistle will carry for 1/2 to 2 miles or even more in the wilderness where your voice may only carry for a few hundred yards, at best, but often much less, depending upon the circumstances. You will also be able to signal for much longer periods of time, whereas your vocal cords would have given out long before. The shrill and unmistakable blast of a whistle, repeated three times, the universal signal for help, will definitely attract attention if anyone is within earshot.
Two whistles, they hardly weigh anything, also allows for safe reconnoitering of the area without the chance that someone will get lost. It's bad enough to be down; getting lost from your fellow survivors would really ruin your day!
The new high tech whistles such as the "Storm" and the "Fox 40" and the smaller, more compact versions of these super whistles, the "WindStorm" and "Mini-Fox 40" are much louder than the traditional G.I., police or the old fashioned flat survival/lifeboat/safety whistle. These whistles cannot be overblown and work even in the water.
　
Please note that a whistle should be considered an essential item of personal equipment for children of any age. In my opinion, no kid should be allowed to go anywhere without a whistle, especially out in the woods. I suggest it be hung around the child's neck and left there. It'll be a lot more effective, if the kid gets lost, than any charm hanging on a chain, religious or otherwise.

Even my two year olds can blow a whistle.......rather effectively, in fact........around the house......all damn day..........
　
Having said that, the whistles I recommend above are not very small and a kid may well balk at wearing one of them. Any whistle is far better than none, however, and there are any number of small flat ones that will work adequately. The smallest flat survival/safety (pealess) whistle is the ACME "Tornado" Model 636 which is made in England and sold in the U.S. under the Skyblazer and Orion brand names. It works quite well, and though not as loud as the Storm or Fox, it will surely attract attention.

If even that is too bulky, or not quite fashionable enough, most jewelry stores will have, or can get you, a small silver whistle. The best of these seem to be tubular in design and bigger is better than smaller, if there is a choice. While these are not nearly as loud as any normal survival whistle or even a conventional police/G.I. whistle, they are still better than relying upon voice alone. The bottom line is, don't let them out of the house without some sort of whistle hanging around their neck.

[izzyscout21]

The key to any ground signal being noticed is to remember that there are very few straight lines or right angles in nature. You must also remember that things are a lot smaller when viewed from the air, so bigger is almost always better. Finally, contrast is another attribute that ensures the signal stands out.

A roll of fluorescent orange, pink or deep blue (yes, believe me, deep blue is very visible in many environments) surveyor's flagging tape can be laid out in a "V" or "X" or draped or thrown over trees to make a signal (small pieces of flagging tied to bushes are useless). It is best to make as solid a signal as possible with the tape, as this is visible from the furthest distance. It can also be staked to the ground or just above it to provide contrast and motion for large ground signals. However, after much experimentation, I've come to the conclusion that it isn't the best choice as a ground signal. On the other hand, the tape comes in very handy marking trails or locations of snares, traps, etc., so it's got a place in a survival kit.
　
A military surplus VS-17 panel works even better for this.

Aluminum foil will also work as a ground signal, laid out in a "V" or "X." For that matter, any large piece of opaque and/or brightly colored material will stand out from the natural terrain. Adding a vertical component, such as with a tube tent or tarp set into an "A-frame" or lean-to, greatly increases the visibility from a distance, especially in unforested terrain.

[izzyscout21]

Pyrotechnics are long time favorites for survival or emergency signalling, but have significant drawbacks. At best, they last a few minutes, many last only a few seconds. Flares and pyrotechnic devices are of limited use; one shot that you have to hope get noticed during their brief moment of glory. You are gambling someone will see them, even when you have lots. However, in all fairness, it must be noted that many survivors have been rescued as a result of signal flare use.
　
If you plan on using them, be sure to carry plenty to compensate for their short endurance. However, the most effective ones take up a lot of room and weigh a lot. This is a double whammy for survivalists for whom both space and weight is generally quite dear.
The other problem is the relative danger involved using some of these devices. In training I've seen people inadvertently burned. And, this wasn't in the sort of stress filled, difficult circumstances in which a survivor might need to use these devices.
They have also been known to start forest or brush fires. These will likely get noticed, but it isn't a recommended method of attracting attention. It could also kill you and many others and should you survive and be rescued, the bill you receive for putting out the fire may make you wish you hadn't survived.
　
In many circumstances, a handheld flare is probably better for starting a fire in wet conditions than for attracting attention. Skyblazer even makes a half size hand flare marketed as a fire starter. Flares are most useful in situations where building a signal fire could be difficult or impossible, such as in the Arctic, above the tree line or in a desert with little or no vegetation (like the Sahara).
　
Both Orion and Skyblazer make USCG approved marine handheld flares which burn for approx 2 minutes, seem to be equally bright and are about the size of a conventional road flare, though the Skyblazer is a tad slimmer in diameter. The longer burn time is a plus, but they are not easily lit and require the user to remove the cap and use it to strike the flare end to light it off, just like a typical road flare. This is very difficult to do from in the water and not exactly easy under any but the most calm circumstances, such as on land.

Pains-Wessex also makes a SOLAS approved hand flare, the "Mk 6 Red Hand Flare," which is only rated for 1 minute burn time (though we have found it generally lasts longer in tests), but is extremely bright, much brighter than the others, leaving its metal tube glowing red hot in the darkness. It is about the same length as the others, but about 1/8 in fatter. It is much easier to ignite. A plastic handle on the bottom unlocks with a pull and twist and is fired by striking it up into the body of the flare. It can be unlocked with one hand, with difficulty, and ignited as long as something solid is around to strike it upon. The Pains-Wessex Mk 6 Red Hand Flare is my top choice for raft use, by a significant margin, but they are expensive, heavy and somewhat bulky. Not exactly ideal for aviation use.

Skyblazer, makes a small (1 1/4 in. dia. x 1 3/4 in. high) 45 second smoke canister and Pains Wessex which offers a one minute handheld smoke and a 3 minute SOLAS approved canister smoke. The Skyblazer smoke cannot be held once ignited by pulling the short chain and must be set down or floated. If it is tipped when being put in the water, easy enough to do, it will tend to fizzle out, a serious drawback, but not a concern on land. The Pains-Wessex hand smoke operates just like the Mk 6 handheld flare, but is slightly larger in diameter. The large (3 1/2 x 6 1/4 in.) canister smoke must also be set on the ground or in the water after pulling the cord igniter, but it floats much better and is not easily upset, you can literally toss it into the water and it will right itself. It's the best, but is really far to big and heavy for personal use.

All make huge billowing clouds of highly visible orange smoke, but it is rapidly dissipated with the slightest breeze. So again, searchers had best be looking in your direction.
With but a single exception, commercial aerial flares are designed strictly for marine use. Marine aerial flares don't always burn out before reaching the ground. If these marine flares are used over land they can, and have, started fires.
Pains-Wessex and Orion make mini-flare kits which use a "pen" launcher onto which the small flare cartridges either latch or screw, respectively. The Pains-Wessex "Miniflare 3" ($74) comes in a nifty, but heavy, rubber case which holds the launcher and eight flares. The Orion "Pocket Rocket" ($20) comes with a flimsy zip-lock plastic bag and three flares. An optional so-called "pouch" is a piece of foam with elastic strips sew onto the surface to hold the launcher and six flares. You can buy extra or replacement flares for the Pocket Rocket (3 for $9.50) but not for the Miniflare 3. While I like the quality of the Miniflare 3 and its well designed case, the Pocket Rocket was a marginally better performer and a much better value.

The launchers are similar, with a spring-loaded "knob" on the side which is pulled down and then released to fire the flare. The Pocket Rocket has a slot at the bottom of the slide so you can rotate the knob sideways where it is held cocked and ready to fire. A small projection, designed to prevent accidental firing, makes it somewhat difficult to fire it off when you want to. Neither is easy to fire, especially with cold hands or if the survivor hasn't got strong hands. Some of my volunteer testers ended up using two hands, one to hold the launcher, the other to work the firing pin. I am aware that some testers have had misfires because the trigger wasn't pulled all the way down and was released prematurely.
Standard pistol fired meteor type flares are available from Orion in both 12 gauge (pistol $22, meteors 3 for $11.50) and 25 mm (pistol $120, meteors 3 for $41). The pistols have a break away breech and after loading a meteor shell, the hammer is manually cocked and then fired with the trigger. The 12 ga. pistol is lightweight plastic, the 25 mm is very heavy die-cast metal . Neither unit is very compact. Both are easy to operate.
With the exception of the Orion 12 ga., performance of the all the meteors is adequate with burn times of 7.3 to 8.5 seconds, the bigger ones performing better, reaching higher and being brighter, than the small ones, as you might expect. The Orion 12 ga. is the only big surprise, giving the worst overall performance. Overall, I prefer the Skyblazers for aviation use. They are simple, waterproof, one piece, reasonably light and virtually foolproof.
　
For land use, I recommend flares only if flights will take you over terrain which offers no possibility of making a signal fire. If space and weight are tight, a few Orion or Skyblazer hand flares and some Skyblazer smokes would be a good bet. For those convinced they must have aerial flares, the XLT Wilderness Flare is the best value from what I've seen.
　
Smoke grenades, as we have discussed perviously, have a very select range of uses. For me, they are versatile, allowing me to both signal or cover movement. ALS makes military sytle, pull-pin canisters, but they are very expensive and hard to get. a better alternative for most of us might be the smokes from www.sportsmoke.com (http://www.shtfready.com/www.sportsmoke.com)

I did a review of some here:
http://www.shtfready.com/equipment-basic-supplies/izzys-gear-reviews-1265-2.html#post21584
　
　
　
There is is folks.......I've exhausted my knowledge,,,,,,,,,,for now..........

[The Stig]

This

is

freaking

awesome

[GunnerMax]

The firefly Plus is awesome, I have always been issued one. The problem is that they run for as high as $100

[bacpacker]

Excellent job Izzy! That took me a while read. Tons of great info, including brands and links. THANKS!