Post EMP/BOV

[idahobob]

A couple of years ago, I was in the market for a post EMP/BOV. In our planning, we really do not plan on bugging out, but the idea for a post EMP vehicle appealed to me.

While we were in another state doing some business, I spotted an ad in the local paper that caught my attention. 1989 Dodge 250, 4WD, Auto, Cummins, straight body, 135,000 miles, $3000.00.

Needless to say, I immediately called the phone number, we to the town that it was in, and gave it the look over. Took it for a test drive, and while I was bringing it back, a fellow rolled down his window and asked if this was the truck that was for sale. I told him "indeed, but you are just a little late".

Paid the owner cash, and rolled over the mountains to home.

Haven't regretted that purchase, and it is serving me well.

Bob
III

[Metrocruiser]

Hi bob
Ive been considering the emp possibilities as well. In your past research do you have any helpful links to what the criterias are for an emp safe bov? Is it as simple as non electronic ignition? I love the old suburbans and blazers and fs broncos. Its too bad the blazers and broncos are too small for our needs.

[Metrocruiser]

Ive been googling a little in regards to what would a good BOV in regards to EMP.
I just started reading so please dont flame me if this post is incorrect but it did summarize it to me quite well in a 2 minute read.


How to Find an EMP-Proof Bug Out Vehicle

by Tyler on April 3, 2012
http://debtreckoning.com/how-to-find-an-emp-proof-bug-out-vehicle/



Modern cars and trucks are highly dependent on an array of computers, control modules, and other electronics. This trend started to develop in the late 1970s, and vehicles have become increasingly computerized over the intervening decades. Computerization has led to benefits like increased fuel efficiency, but it has also created a massive vulnerability in our transportation system.

In the event of a large-scale EMP attack, it’s highly likely that the roads will be clogged with broken down vehicles. If you want to circumvent that issue, you need to make sure that your bug out vehicle isn’t vulnerable to an EMP attack.

What is an EMP?

EMP stands for electromagnetic pulse, and in terms of SHTF scenarios this type of attack is one of the most frightening. A high-altitude nuclear detonation over our country would send intense magnetic fields screaming into our atmosphere with enough charge to melt power lines, and fry basically anything with a computer chip. Try to name one single electronic device these days that is without a chip. Imagine all the things that would fail immediately – cars, planes, computers, cell phones, pacemakers, power grids…the list goes on and on.

While it is impossible to be completely EMP-proof, or to harden all of your devices against an attack, there is one important step you can take with regard to protecting your ability to move about after an EMP: Find an EMP-proof bug out vehicle.

Solid State Electronics

Any vehicle that uses solid state electronics is vulnerable to an EMP attack. Transistors, microchips, and integrated circuits are all examples of solid state electronics. Modern vehicles use these components in complicated computer units and control modules, but they are also found in voltage regulators, ignition modules, and other components. In the best case scenario, these components will be temporarily shorted out by an EMP attack. Heavier exposure to an EMP will fry the components altogether, which will leave many vehicles unable to run.

Finding a Bug Out Vehicle

When it comes to bug out vehicles that are resistant to EMP attacks, old is better than new. The major vehicle manufacturers didn’t all introduce computerized control modules at the same time, so there is no single cutoff year. You should focus on models that were built prior to 1980, but it’s crucial to verify that your bug out vehicle isn’t computerized.

Engine, transmission, and body control modules are all vulnerable to EMP attacks, but many other components also use solid state electronics. If you can find a bug out vehicle that was built during the 1960s or early 1970s, the alternator will typically be less vulnerable to EMP attacks. That’s because most vehicles from that era used mechanical voltage regulators that can’t be damaged by an EMP. You should also look for a vehicle that has a mechanical ignition system, because electronic ignition systems rely on vulnerable ignition control modules.

Gasoline or Diesel

There are differing opinions on whether to choose a bug out vehicle with a gas or diesel engine. Diesel vehicles can run on a wider range of fuels, but gasoline may be easier to find and siphon from broken down cars and trucks. Newer diesel vehicles have to be modified if you want to run anything but petrodiesel in them, but that won’t be an issue if you buy an older model. The choice ultimately comes down to whether you’re more comfortable with a gas vehicle or a diesel vehicle.

Price Ranges

The best thing about buying a bug out vehicle that’s resistant to EMP attacks is that it probably won’t break the bank. Since you’ll be looking at older vehicles, most of your potential choices will have depreciated in value long ago.

According to NADA, the average retail price for a 1980 Ford F-350 is less than $4,000. The low-end retail price for that same vehicle is less than $2,000. The exact price of your bug out vehicle will depend on the model you choose, the condition it’s in, and where you live, but there are a lot of older cars and trucks out there that are priced to sell.

Maintaining an Older Bug Out Vehicle

The maintenance needs of your bug out vehicle will depend on whether or not you drive it regularly. If you just leave it parked next to your house, you’ll need to start it up and run it every few weeks. It’s also a good idea to drain the fuel tank or add a stabilizer, because varnished gas can clog up a carburetor. You should also consider purchasing a carburetor rebuild kit, points for your distributor, and other small components that can wear out over time.

Hardening an Existing Vehicle

If you just can’t fit a dedicated bug out vehicle into your budget, you may be able to prepare your existing car or truck for an attack. The key is to identify all of the vulnerable electronics and then purchase replacements. Many of these components can be bought from wrecking yards, which can keep the costs down.

You’ll then have to build a small Faraday cage to hold the components. If your vehicle fails to start after an EMP attack, you can simply swap out the control modules and other electronics.

[Metrocruiser]

Heres another good one I just read.


Letter Re: A Practical, Reliable Bug-Out Vehicle

Friday, Dec 2, 2011

A brand new Hummer or Jeep Wrangler, decked out with every available option may sound like the best, most capable vehicle in an emergency situation. The harsh reality is that they could be one of the worst. Don't get me wrong, they are both very nice, with proven track records, but in an emergency, can leave you and your loved ones stranded.

The problem lies with the tremendous amount of electronics needed for the vehicle to operate. The average newer vehicle (especially within the last ten years) has several computers on board that control not only the engine, but also the transmission, the four wheel drive system, brakes, power windows and locks, and even the lights just to name a few. The fact is, computers have been used in vehicles since the early 1980s. The manufacturers have incorporated them in to more and more of the systems for better emissions, fuel economy, drivability, and creature comforts. The average vehicle has more than five computers, operating on their own network (CANS) sharing information back and fourth, making any needed adjustments for a seamless driving experience. A computer controlled engine will not start and run until the computer commands it to do so. The starter, electric fuel pump, electronic fuel injectors, and electronic ignition system are all dependant on the power train control module (PCM) to function. Unlike aircraft, there are no redundant systems in place in the event of a PCM malfunction. A computer controlled automatic transmission cannot shift until the computer commands it to do so. Without direction, the transmission [indicator] will engage park, neutral, forward and reverse, but will not shift. Before the computer can command a shift to occur it needs to look at various sensors located throughout the vehicle such as, engine speed, vehicle speed, engine load, engine temperature, gas pedal position, selector lever position, input shaft and output shaft speeds, and probably a few more.

With the ever increasing possibility of a terrorist EMP attack or natural blast from our sun, these systems will probably not survive. The computers are not shielded for such an event. Imagine loading your survival gear and family into your bug out vehicle, turning the key, and nothing happens. The starter, fuel injectors, fuel pump, ignition coils, all receive their commands directly from the PCM. Without a working PCM your vehicle is a 3,200 pound paperweight.

There are several options for a practical EMP proof bug out vehicle. Obviously, many older gasoline powered vehicles were EMP proof. They had carburetors for fuel delivery, mechanical (points type) ignition, mechanical engine driven fuel pumps, no electronics what so ever. Automatic transmissions were also mechanically controlled and needed no electrical controls either. Older jeeps and pick-ups are great choices. They are pretty easy to find, inexpensiveto buy, and repair. There is also my personal favorite, the old school diesel. The old school diesel has an all mechanical fuel injection system and no computer either. Modern computerized fuel injected diesels are in the same situation as their gasoline powered cousins. The starter, fuel pump, glow plugs and injectors are all PCM operated and will not run without a working PCM.

My personal bug out vehicle is a 1983 ford F350 Pick-up 4x4 automatic with a 6.9 diesel. The truck looks like he**, but it’s mechanically perfect. This truck has two 19 gallon fuel tanks, allowing an over 500 mile range, and plenty of room for my family and all of our gear. I had to take care of some minor repairs to make it road ready. New batteries, brakes, filters, belts, hoses, starter, tires and a front end alignment, all told I have about $2,000 invested in a vehicle that can go anywhere no matter what. I added some custom features as well such as a cap for the bed, auxiliary off road lighting, police siren with PA system, a trailer hitch, and a 12,000 pound winch. Vehicles such as this can be purchased inexpensively, repaired inexpensively, registered and insured inexpensively too. There are a bunch of vehicles such as this available from most manufacturers. Ford, General Motors, and Dodge all made diesel pick-ups with mechanical fuel injection and no computers all the way into the early 90s. Ford used the 6.9 until the mid 80s before switching to the 7.3. The 7.3 was used up to the early 90s, before switching to the PCM controlled Power Stroke diesel. General Motors was using the 6.5 during the same time period without any computer, and Dodge was using the 5.9 Cummins, all of which were strong, reliable engines easily capable of 300,000 plus miles. A word of caution though, while there was no computer needed for these engines to operate, some were equipped with computers to make certain automatic transmissions operate. Most automatic overdrive transmissions in these trucks were PCM controlled. Find one with a old style 3 speed automatic or manual transmission, and you’ve eliminated that problem as well.

In my opinion, a diesel has more advantages than drawbacks versus a gasoline engine. Diesels are built stronger with larger bearings, and heavier internal components, A diesel can run on many different fuel types such as vegetable oil, animal fat, and bio-diesel which can be home made a hell of a lot easier and safer than home made gasoline. Getting past the smell of the exhaust and the rattle and hum of the engine are small prices to pay for an emergency vehicle that will work in an actual emergency. - Tony G.

Copyright 2005-2012 James Wesley, Rawles - SurvivalBlog.com All Rights Reserved

[Metrocruiser]

Save the best for the last.

Not sure about the protocols here, can I post links to other sites or should I just cut and paste with the authors name?

http://www.survivalistssite.com/~canuck/downloads/bov_basics.pdf

BOV (Bug Out Vehicle) Basics
There are three schools of thought or approaches to BOVs:
The first school is the traditional BOV, a pre-1980 4x4 pickup or SUV, this school of thought advocates these earlier
vehicles primarily for their supposed resistance to the effects of EMP (Electromagnetic Pulse) from a nuclear weapon or
other source. The theory is that older vehicles that have less electronics on them will survive EMP better than newer
vehicles. Another side consideration is the lack of tracking systems such as Onstar and immunity from new devices that
would allow the police (or someone else) to turn the vehicle off by using some sort of directed energy weapon (these are real
although in the early stages and may not be in use anywhere).
The newer vehicle school of thought says that the likelyhood of a detonation of a nuclear bomb that will produce EMP
happening is slim to none, and there is no hard evidence that older vehicles will not be affected or that newer vehicles will be
affected by EMP, so you might as well use a modern 4x4. This school also points out that modern vehicles have better fuel
economy than older vehicles, and they're a lot nicer to be in on long trips.
The third school of thought is the use whatever you have school. This school of thought realizes that not everyone can
afford a dedicated BOV or that they can not afford to buy another vehicle. For options in this area see my blog article on Bug
Out / Evacuation Cargo Carrying Options and Blackstar's blog article on Survival Transportation - Small & Midsize cars.
I am going to deal with what a BOV should be in an ideal situation. This will apply to the first two schools of thought and I
will not advocate one or the other. There is information below, tools and spare parts, that will apply to all BOVs.
A BOV should be or have the following features:
- 4x4
- large enough to fit your family, pets and your core gear
- have a trailer hitch - receiver style (a front mounted hitch receiver is also a good idea)
- have at least one winch, two would be better (front and back)
- be in good repair and running condition
- have upgraded shocks or springs (better towing and cargo capabilities)
- have a brush guard
- have at least one full size spare
- a cargo basket or roof racks on the top (increased gear storage)
- have driving and fog lights
- largest tires possible
- skid plates (front minimum - transfer case and drive line advisable)
- gas tank protection (skid plate)
- have a good CB and antenna (full size steel whip antenna with spring at base)
For some people the BOV of choice will be a full size pickup, a full size SUV, a small/midsize pickup or a small/midsize
SUV. This will depend on a lot of factors including the size of their family, their budget and their needs. There are lots of
options out there to meet the "minimum" requirements listed above. The upgraded shocks or springs are a simple and fairly
inexpensive upgrade that can be done by the owner or a mechanic. Brush guards are also fairly inexpensive and can be
installed by the owner or a mechanic and allow the mounting of a winch and the driving and fog lights. A rear mounted hitch
could require the addition of a custom bumper, although there are commercial bumpers available for some vehicles, plus
there is the option of mounting the winch to a custom 2 inch receiver tongue. Some people in the 4x4 community carry tubes
for their tires in case a hole is too large to patch or plug on the trail, some pre-mount the tube inside the tire so all they have
to do is pump it up.
You want to make sure that your fan shroud is in good condition as it is one of the most important items under the hood.
This piece of plastic serves two major functions, the first is the guiding of air through the radiator to provide sufficient
cooling (very important when hauling a full load) by limiting turbulence around the fan. The second is that it keeps the spray
of water over the engine and electrical systems reducing the chances of stalling the engine out due to excess water spraying
the ignition system.
For those looking to buy an older fullsize pickup or SUV they can often be found in good mechanical and body condition for
$2000 or less. If you are not mechanically inclined you will want to take it to your mechanic to have it looked at and get any
marginal parts replaced. It is better to be sure than to break down halfway to your destination. You don't need a monster
truck, you need a basic 4x4 truck that will get you to where you are going.
Even if you are not mechanically inclined there are a number of basic repairs that any person can do as long as you have the
repair manuals and some basic tools. Not only will you get to know your vehicle better but you will save yourself some
money by doing the routine things. When buying repair manuals I always get both the Chilton's and the Haynes manuals.
Your BOV should always have the following items in it:
- repair manuals
- basic mechanics tool set
- standard and metric socket set
- standard and metric wrench set
- ball peen hammer
- torque wrench
- channel lock pliers
- locking pliers
- linesmans pliers
- needlenose pliers
- adjustable wrenches (6, 10 & 15 inch)
- screwdrivers (3 flat head & 3 phillps)
- torx set
- allen wrench set
- spark plug socket and setting tool
- distributor wrench
- wire stripper/crimper
- electrical connectors and wire
- basic voltmeter or circuit tester
- electrical tape, shrink tubing, cloth friction tape
- WD-40 or other spray lubricant
- duct tape
- flashlight
- breaker bar
- RTV sealant and/or gasket maker
- tarp
- super glue and paper clips
- JB Weld
- starter fluid
- degreaser
- can of contact cement
- Knipex pliers (for gripping rounded nut or bolt)
- nylon zip ties
- jack stands
- assorted nuts, bolts and washers for your vehicle
- other specialty tools required for your vechicle (usually on Fords)
- spare set of fuses
- spare set of all bulbs
- spare hoses
- spare spark plugs
- spare spark plug wires
- spare wiper blades
- fluids (oil, transmission fluid, power steering fluid, coolant/antifreeze, etc)
- tire repair kit including fix-a-flat or "slime"
- lug wrench/tire iron
- flares or reflective triangle
- jack (Hi-Lift or bottle)
- "come-a-long", 2 ton (manual hand winch type tool)
- snatch block
- jumper cables (quality all copper 4 or 6 guage)
- air compressor
- rags
- waterless hand cleaner
- snow brush
- squeegee
- tow chain
- snow chains (good for mud too)
- traction aids (carpet, sand, board, etc)
- distilled water (for battery)
- stop leak for radiator, oil, etc
- HEAT/Dry Gas
- octane boost/gas treatment
- at least one 5 gallon gas can
- drinking water
- leather work gloves
- change of clothes
- spare boots/shoes
- first aid kit
- baby wipes
- toilet paper
- some freeze dried/dehydrated food
- blanket
- coat
- poncho
- rope
- multi-tool (Leatherman / Gerber)
- maps of city, state and country
- candles or fake fireplace log
- matches or disposable lighter
- trash bags
- cooler (to keep food and water in)
- water purifier (Katadyn or Berkey) or purification tablets
- seasonal items (clothing, etc)
- oil filter
In addition to the spare parts listed above you may want to carry some of the more common and easy to replace parts below:
- ignition coil
- alternator
- thermostat
- complete distributor or at least cap, rotor and points (for older vehicles)
- starter
- U-joints
- voltage regulator (older vehicles)
- fuel pump
- starter solenoid/relay
- fuel filter
These parts are the ones that need replacing the most and can generally be replaced by anyone on the side of the road with
the basic mechanics tools listed above. Some people, especially in the 4x4 community, will choose to carry drive shafts and
axles as well but these take longer to replace and require more skill. The optional spare parts listed here can generally be
replaced in under an hour. You would be well advised to have a long length of steel pipe, rebar or a very strong screwdriver
for leveraging and tightening your alternator.
See Basic Survival Tools for additional items that should also be kept in or on your BOV. Ideally your BOV should have
most of the same items as your BOB (Bug Out Bag) in it at all times, so you are never without those items.
If your BOV is dedicated to being a BOV and is not your daily driver you can keep your BOB and other gear that is not
affected by temperature loaded in your BOV and ready to go with a moments notice.