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JustAPrepper
07-13-2012, 04:06 PM
This is some information I put together about a year or so ago and thought I'd share.

I use it as a guide on when to start our seeds and when to plant certain vegetables according to temperatures as well a quick reference during the growing season. The information is mostly generic so it can be used for any part of the country. However there are a few notes that lean more toward our growing area (Celery and Cauliflower for example) but the list should be sufficient enough to get most any new gardener started. :cool:

WARM SEASON CROPS

BEANS – ASIAN WINGED (90-120 DAYS)
RELATIVE OF THE COMMON BEAN - MANY GROW MUCH BETTER THAN COMMON BEANS IN WARM WEATHER AND MOST TEND TO BE MORE DISEASE-RESISTANT

BEANS, ASIAN LONG (75 DAYS)
DISTANT RELATIVE OF THE BLACK EYED PEA - SIMILAR IN TASTE TO A GREEN BEAN ALTHOUGH NOT AS SWEET WITH HINTS OF BLACK EYED PEA - BEST TO PICK BETWEEN 15" - 18

BEANS, BUSH – SNAP (40-60 DAYS)
REQUIRE PLANTING POTS WHEN TRANSPLANTING - SOW SEEDS 1" DEEP, 6" APART IN ROWS 18" APART - BEANS NEED ROOM ON EITHER SIDE FOR MAXIMUM PRODUCTION - DO NOT PLANT TOO SOON - SOIL MUST BE WARM FOR SEEDS TO GERMINATE - AVOID OVERHEAD WATERING - DO NOT HANDLE PLANTS WHEN THEY ARE WET - EVEN THOUGH LEGUMES PRODUCE THEIR OWN NITROGEN IF SOIL IS LACKING IT'S A GOOD IDEA TO INNOCULATE SEEDS OR SOIL WITH NITROGEN - PREFER TEMPS OF 70-80 - IF CONSISTENTLY OVER 85 BLOSSOMS WILL DROP - IF CONSISTENTLY UNDER 70 THEY WON'T FLOWER - BUSH ARE MORE TOLERANT OF HEAT THAN POLES - POLES CAN PROCRASTINATE IN PRODUCTION - BUSH ARE FASTER TO PRODUCE BUT POLES PRODUCE MORE ONCE THEY START

BEANS, BUSH - SHELL (90-120 DAYS)
REQUIRE PLANTING POTS WHEN TRANSPLANTING - PLANT DRY BEANS IN SPRING OR LATE FALL AS 120 DAYS ARE NEEDED FROM SEEDING FOR BEANS TO BECOME DRY ENOUGH TO HARVEST - EVEN THOUGH LEGUMES PRODUCE THEIR OWN NITROGEN IF SOIL IS LACKING IT'S A GOOD IDEA TO INNOCULATE SEEDS OR SOIL WITH NITROGEN - PREFER TEMPS OF 70-80 - IF CONSISTENTLY OVER 85 BLOSSOMS WILL DROP - IF CONSISTENTLY UNDER 70 THEY WON'T FLOWER - BUSH ARE MORE TOLERANT OF HEAT THAN POLES - POLES CAN PROCRASTINATE IN PRODUCTION - BUSH ARE FASTER TO PRODUCE BUT POLES PRODUCE MORE ONCE THEY START


BEANS, POLE (55-70 DAYS)
PLANT POLE BEAN SEEDS WITH CORN SEEDS SO BEANS CAN CLIMB CORN STALKS - REQUIRE PLANTING POTS WHEN TRANSPLANTING - PLANT DRY BEANS IN SPRING OR LATE FALL AS 120 DAYS FROM SEEDING ARE NEEDED FOR BEANS TO BECOME DRY ENOUGH TO HARVEST - TILL AN AREA 4'X4' - INCORPORATE COMPOST IN TO SOIL - INSERT TEEPEE/TRELLIS AND PLANT 6-8 SEEDS AROUND EACH POLE AND THIN TO 3 PLANTS PER POLE - USE A SOAKER HOSE FOR IRRIGATION - EVEN THOUGH LEGUMES PRODUCE THEIR OWN NITROGEN IT'S A GOOD IDEA TO INNOCULATE SEEDS OR SOIL WITH NITROGEN - PREFER TEMPS OF 70-80 - IF CONSISTENTLY OVER 85 BLOSSOMS WILL DROP - IF CONSISTENTLY UNDER 70 THEY WON'T FLOWER - BUSH ARE MORE TOLERANT OF HEAT THAN POLES - POLES CAN PROCRASTINATE IN PRODUCTION - BUSH ARE FASTER TO PRODUCE BUT POLES PRODUCE MORE ONCE THEY START

BEANS, LIMA (65-100 DAYS)
REQUIRE PLANTING POTS WHEN TRANSPLANTING - PLANT DRY BEANS IN SPRING OR LATE FALL AS 120 DAYS ARE NEEDED FROM SEEDING FOR BEANS TO BECOME DRY ENOUGH TO HARVEST - EVEN THOUGH LEGUMES PRODUCE THEIR OWN NITROGEN IF SOIL IS LACKING IT'S A GOOD IDEA TO INNOCULATE SEEDS OR SOIL WITH NITROGEN - PREFER TEMPS OF 60-70 DEGREES - WONT' SET PODS IN TEMPS OVER 80 - POLES REQUIRE LONGER SEASON THAN BUSH

CANTALOUPES (75-90 DAYS)
REQUIRE PLANTING POTS WHEN TRANSPLANTING - BEST SUGAR AND TASTE ARE DEVELOPED WHEN FRUITS MATURE DURING LENGTHENING DAYS OF EARLY SUMMER - MELONS ARE HEAVY FEEDERS - WORK PLENTY OF COMPOST IN SOIL - IN THE SUNNIEST SPOT OF THE GARDEN SOW SEEDS 1" DEEP IN HILLS THAT ARE 4'-6' APART - IRRIGATE WITH SOAKER OR DRIP HOSE - OPTIMAL GROWING TEMPS RANGE FROM 65-75 - CONSECUTIVE DAYS OF 90 DEGREE TEMPS WILL CAUSE FLOWERS TO DROP

CHARD (55-60 DAYS)
HARVEST OUTER LEAVES AS NEEDED - USING A WIDE ROW METHOD FOR PLANTING, SOW 2-3 SEEDS EVERY 6" IN EVERY DIRECTION - ONCE SEEDS SPROUT THIN TO ONE PLANT EVERY 6" - CHARD CAN TAKE MANY TEMPERATURE VARIANTS

CORN, SWEET (80-95 DAYS)
PLANT SWEET CORN IN BLOCKS RATHER THAN ROWS TO PROMOTE BETTER POLLINATION - PLANT POLE BEAN SEEDS WITH CORN SEEDS SO BEANS CAN CLIMB CORN STALKS - REQUIRES PLANTING POTS WHEN TRANSPLANTING - REQUIRES PLENTY OF SPACE TO GROW - IS A WARM WEATHER CROP BUT CAN WITHSTAND MORE COLD THAN CUCUMBERS, CANTALOUPE, PUMPKINS OR SQUASH - PLANT EARLY, MID SEASON AND LATE VARIETIES AT THE SAME TIME TO STAGGER MATURATION DATES AND GET A FRESH SUPPLY THROUGHOUT THE GROWING SEASON OR USE THE SAME VARIETY BY SPACING PLANTINGS 10 DAYS TO 2 WEEKS APART -WHEN GROWING SUPER SWEET VARIETIES BE SURE TO SEPARATE THEM FROM STARCHY VARIETIES TO AVOID CROSS POLLINATION - DO NOT PLANT CORN IN A PLACE WHERE IT WILL SHADE OTHER VEGETABLES - CORN IS A HEAVY FEEDER SO ADD PLENTY OF COMPOST BEFORE SOWING SEEDS - SOIL SHOULD BE WARM (70-72 DEGREES AT TIME OF PLANTING) - PLANT 3 SEEDS 1" - 1 1/2" DEEP EVERY 12" - FOR SMALLER GARDENS PLANT IN A 4'X4' BLOCK - DIVIDE BLOCK IN TO 16 1'X1' SQUARES - PLANT 3 SEEDS IN THE MIDDLE OF EACH SQUARE - THIN TO ONE PLANT PER SQUARE ONCE SPROUTED - HARVEST SHOULD COME 12 - 18 DAYS AFTER THE FIRST SILK APPEARS - CORN WILL CROSS POLLINATE SO ONLY PLANT ONE VARIETY AT A TIME OR MAKE SURE THERE IS AMPLE SEPARATION BETWEEN VARIETIES - OPTIMAL TEMPERATURES FOR CORN ARE NO LESS THAN 50 BUT NO HIGHER THAN 86 DEGREES

CUCUMBERS (50-65 DAYS)
REQUIRE PLANTING POTS WHEN TRANSPLANTING – DIRECT SOW ALONG A TRELLIS OR FENCE - WHEN SEEDS SPROUT THIN TO ONE PLANT EVERY 8"-12" - GUIDE PLANT UP TRELLIS AS IT GROWS - HARVEST CUCUMBERS OFTEN - DO NOT LET FRUIT GET TOO BIG OR IT WILL DETER FURTHER PRODUCTION - GIVE CUCUMBERS PLENTY OF SUN AND WATER - AVOID WETTING THE PLANT - USE SOAKER OR DRIP IRRIGATION - OPTIMAL GROWING TEMPS DURING DAY ARE 65-75 - NIGHT TEMPS ABOVE 60 - COOL WEATHER DELAYS FRUIT PRODUCTION AND GROWTH - HOT DRY WEATHER CAUSES BITTER/MISHAPEN FRUIT - IF USING PLASTIC CUPS TO START SEEDS INDOORS DON'T KEEP SEEDS IN CUPS LONGER THAN 10-14 DAYS AS ROOTS ARE EXTREMEMLY SENSITIVE

GOURD, ANGLED (TBD – POSSIBLY AS LONG AS 110 DAYS)
GROWN JUST LIKE SQUASH. PICK FRUITS WHEN YOUNG AND TENDER OR LET MATURE FOR LUFFA SPONGES - OPTIMAL GROWING TEMPS RANGE BETWEEN 60-85 - IT'S POSSIBLE FOR FRUITS TO CONTINUE TO RIPEN IN TEMPS AS HIGH AS 100 DEGREES BUT FLOWERS WILL DROP IN HIGH HEAT

PEAS, SOUTHERN (60-95 DAYS)
RECOMMENDED 30 PLANTS PER HOUSEHOLD MEMBER - REQUIRE PLANTING POTS WHEN TRANSPLANTING - PLANT DRY BEANS IN SPRING OR LATE FALL AS 120 DAYS ARE NEEDED FROM SEEDING FOR BEANS TO BECOME DRY ENOUGH TO HARVEST - SOUTHERN PEAS ARE ALSO KNOWN AS COWPEAS OR FIELD PEAS AND CAN BE USED AS GREEN MANURE BETWEEN PLANTING SEASONS - THEY MAY BE EATEN IN THE SNAP, GREEN-SHELL OR DRY STAGE - DO NOT PLANT TOO SOON AS SOIL NEEDS TO BE WARM - PLANT SEEDS 1/2" - 1" DEEP SPACING 4" BETWEEN PLANTS IN ROWS 2' APART - TO HARVEST PICK IN THE GREEN SHELL STAGE WHEN PEAS ARE FULLY DEVELOPED BUT NOT HARD YET OR LET RIPEN AND STORE AS DRIED PEAS - PREFER TEMPS RANGING FROM 70-95

PEPPERS, SWEET (65-85 DAYS)
EASILY TRANSPLANTED FROM A STARTER POT - 12 - 18 PLANTS SHOULD PROVIDE AMPLE SUPPLY FOR SALADS, SAUCES AND OTHER USES FOR A FAMILY OF FIVE - CULTIVATION IS SIMILAR TO THAT OF TOMATOES AND EGGPLANT - SOW SEEDS 1/4" DEEP IN FINE POTTING SOIL AND PLACE IN A WARM SPOT - SEEDS NEED EXTREMELY WARM SOIL (72-80) AND WILL TAKE 10-15 DAYS TO GERMINATE – ADD PLENTY OF COMPOST TO SOIL BEFORE PLANTING - USE SOAKER OR DRIP IRRIGATION TO AVOID GETTING THE PLANTS WET - BEFORE PLANTING ADD A BOOK OF COMMON HOUSEHOLD MATCHES IN EACH PLANTING HOLE, COVER WITH SOIL THEN ADD PLANT - PEPPERS LOVE THE ADDED PHOSPHOROUS - PEPPERS CAN TAKE THE HEAT BUT OPTIMAL GROWING TEMPERATURES ARE 70-80 DEGREES FOR SWEETS AND 70-85 FOR HOTS - FLOWERS WILL DROP IF DAYTIME TEMPS ARE ABOVE 90 IN COMBINATION WITH NIGHTIME TEMPS OF 75 OR ABOVE – MAY NEED TO REPLANT TO LARGER POTS UP TO THREE TIMES BEFORE GARDEN SET


PEPPERS, HOT (65-85 DAYS)
EASILY TRANSPLANTED FROM A STARTER POT - HOT VARIETIES MAY BE PULLED BY THE ROOTS BEFORE FROST AND HUNG IN A COOL, SHELTERED PLACE WHERE THEY WILL MATURE - SOW SEEDS 1/4" DEEP IN FINE POTTING SOIL AND PLACE IN A WARM SPOT - SEEDS NEED EXTREMELY WARM SOIL (72-80) AND WILL TAKE 10-15 DAYS TO GERMINATE – ADD PLENTY OF COMPOST BEFORE PLANTING - USE SOAKER OR DRIP IRRIGATION TO AVOID GETTING THE PLANTS WET - BEFORE PLANTING ADD A BOOK OF COMMON HOUSEHOLD MATCHES IN EACH PLANTING HOLE, COVER WITH SOIL THEN ADD PLANT - PEPPERS LOVE THE ADDED PHOSPHOROUS - PEPPERS CAN TAKE THE HEAT BUT OPTIMAL GROWING TEMPERATURES ARE 70-80 DEGREES FOR SWEETS AND 70-85 FOR HOTS - FLOWERS WILL DROP IF DAYTIME TEMPS ARE ABOVE 90 IN COMBINATION WITH NIGHTIME TEMPS OF 75 OR ABOVE - MAY NEED TO REPLANT TO LARGER POTS UP TO THREE TIMES BEFORE GARDEN SET

PUMPKIN (90-120 DAYS)
PLANT IN HILLS OR MOUNDS - HILLS SHOULD BE 6-8" HIGH, 12-18" IN DIAMETER WITH 2-3 SEEDS PER HILL 1' DEEP - ALLOW UP TO 4 MONTHS FOR MATURITY - DUE TO THE VINING NATURE, EVEN THE SMALLER VARIETIES OF PUMPKIN SHOULD ONLY BE GROWN IN LARGER GARDENS - SOW SEEDS IN A SUNNY LOCATION - WORK PLENTY OF COMPOST IN SOIL AS PUMPKINS ARE HEAVY FEEDERS - FERTILIZE MONTHLY - FILE ALL EDGES OF SEEDS EXCEPT THE POINTED END - PUMPKIN SEEDS ARE THICK AND THIS WILL HELP PROMOTE GERMINATION - SOAK THE SEEDS IN WARM WATER FOR A FEW HOURS TO ASSIST IN GERMINATION - PLACE SEED ON IT'S SIDE OR POINTED END DOWN WHEN PLANTING - IF THEY HAVE NOT SPROUTED BY 10 DAYS DISCARD AND START AGAIN

SQUASH, SUMMER (45-60 DAYS)
PLANT IN HILLS OR MOUNDS. HILLS SHOULD BE 6-8" HIGH, 12-18" IN DIAMETER WITH 2-3 SEEDS PER HILL, 1" DEEP - REQUIRE PLANTING POTS WHEN TRANSPLANTING - GROWS RAPIDLY FROM SEED IN THE WARM MONTHS - THE MAIN PROBLEM WITH SQUASH IS BLOSSOM DROP AND SMALL FRUIT PRIMARILY DUE TO INSUFFICIENT POLLINATION - TO GROW IN A RAISED BED SOW 5-6 SEEDS IN THE MIDDLE OF A 4'X4' SQUARE - THIN TO 2 PLANTS PER SQUARE - SQUASH ARE HEAVY FEEDERS SO COMPOST WELL AND FERTILIZE MONTHLY DURING GROWING SEASON - OPTIMAL GROWING TEMPS RANGE BETWEEN 60-70 FOR NIGHT TEMPS AND 75-85 FOR DAY TEMPS - IT'S POSSIBLE FOR FRUITS TO CONTINUE TO RIPEN IN TEMPS AS HIGH AS 100 DEGREES BUT FLOWERS WILL DROP IN HIGH HEAT - IF USING PLASTIC CUPS TO START SEEDS INDOORS DON'T LET SEEDLINGS STAY IN CUPS MORE THAN 10-14 DAYS AS ROOT SYSTEMS ARE VERY SENSITIVE


SQUASH, WINTER (80-100 DAYS)
(CALABAZA IS GROWN MOSTLY IN DADE COUNTY BUT CAN BE GROWN IN OTHER AREAS) – PLANT IN HILLS OR MOUNDS. HILLS SHOULD BE 6-8" HIGH, 12-18" IN DIAMETER WITH 2-3 SEEDS PER HILL - REQUIRE PLANTING POTS WHEN TRANSPLANTING - GROWS RAPIDLY FROM SEED IN THE WARM MONTHS - THE MAIN PROBLEM WITH SQUASH IS BLOSSOM DROP AND SMALL FRUIT PRIMARILY DUE TO INSUFFICIENT POLLINATION -TO GROW IN A RAISED BED SOW 5-6 SEEDS IN THE MIDDLE OF A 4'X4' SQUARE - THIN TO 2 PLANTS PER SQUARE - SQUASH ARE HEAVY FEEDERS SO COMPOST WELL AND FERTILIZE MONTHLY DURING GROWING SEASON - HARVEST SQUASH WHEN SKIN IS TOUGH AND CANNOT BE PIERCED WITH A FINGERNAIL - STORE SQUASH IN COOL, DRY PLACE FOR WINTER USE - PREFERRED GROWING TEMPS ARE 50-90 DEGREES - FRUIT WILL CONTINUE TO RIPEN IN HIGH TEMPS BUT FLOWERS WILL DROP WHEN TEMPS REACH 100 - IF STARTING SEEDS INDOORS IN PLASTIC CUPS DON'T KEEP SEEDS IN CUPS LONGER THAN 10-14 DAYS AS ROOTS ARE VERY SENSITIVE



TOMATOES (65-90 DAYS)
EASILY TRANSPLANTED FROM A STARTER POT - PRUNE TOMATO PLANTS BY REMOVING SMALL SIDE BRANCHES KNOWN AS SUCKERS – ONLY ALLOW ONE, TWO AT THE MOST TO DEVELOP BUT DON'T REMOVE LEAVES FROM THE STEMS – SUCKERS EMERGE WHERE THE LEAF JOINS THE STEM WHEREAS THE FRUITING CLUSTERS EMERGE ON STEM BETWEEN LEAF OR NODE – REMOVING THE SUCKERS WILL REMOVE SOME FRUIT BUT THOSE THAT REMAIN WILL BE LARGER - WHEN SETTING TOMATO PLANTS ALWAYS SET THEM AN INCH OR TWO DEEPER THAN WHAT THEY ARE GROWING IN THE POT - EXCESSIVELY LONG-STEMMED PLANTS SHOULD BE PUT IN THE PLANTING HOLE SIDEWAYS WITH ONLY THE LEAFY TOPS PROTRUDING - BLOSSOM-END ROT IS COMMON AND CAN BE CAUSED BY TOO LITTLE CALCIUM, TOO LOW OR TOO HIGH NIGHT TEMPERATURES, TOO MUCH NITROGEN IN THE SOIL (DON'T PLANT NEXT TO LEGUMES), TOO MUCH SHADE, OVERWATERING, EXCESSIVE SUCKER REMOVAL AND PESTS – SOW 2-3 SEEDS PER 3" STARTER POT (USING SMALLER POTS WILL PRODUCE SPINDLY PLANTS THAT DON'T PRODUCE WELL) - BEST GERMINATION OCCURS IN WARM SOIL (72-80) SO PUT POTS IN WARM LOCATION - EVENTUALLY THIN STARTER POTS TO ONE PLANT PER POT - AFTER 3 WEEKS TRANSPLANT TO LARGER POT - HARDEN PLANTS AS NEEDED BY PUTTING THEM OUTDOORS IN SHADED AREA GRADUALLY MOVING TO MORE SUN – PLANT TOMATOES IN WELL COMPOSTED SOIL AS TOMATOES ARE HEAVY FEEDERS - BURY PLANTS DEEPLY 1' - 2' APART WITH ROWS BEING 3' APART - YOU CAN EVEN PINCH OFF ALL THE LEAVES EXCEPT THE TOP FEW AND PLANT THE ENTIRE STEM - USE SOAKER OR DRIP IRRIGATION TO KEEP PLANTS MOIST - STAKE OR CAGE TOMATOES AS HEIRLOOM VARIETIES DO NOT DO WELL ON THE GROUND - ONCE PLANTS START GROWING PINCH OFF ANY LEAVES THAT ARE TOUCHING THE GROUND - PREFFERED TEMPS ARE 50 AT NIGHT AND 75 DURING DAY - PLANTS WILL START DROPPING FLOWERS IF NIGHTTIME TEMPS GET ABOVE 75 OR BELOW 55 - TRANSPLANT IN LARGER CUPS/POTS UP TO TWO TIMES AS NEEDED

WATERMELON (85-95 DAYS)
REQUIRE PLANTING POTS WHEN TRANSPLANTING - REQUIRE CONSIDERABLE GROWING SPACE - PLANT SEED IN SPRING AFTER DANGER OF FROST IN HILLS 6' - 8' APART - SOW SEEDS 1" DEEP - WORK PLENTY OF COMPOST IN SOIL AS MELONS ARE HEAVY FEEDERS - MELONS REQUIRE PLENTY OF WATER SO IRRIGATE WITH SOAKER OR DRIP HOSES - GOOD BEE ACTIVITY IS NECESSARY FOR PROPER POLLINATION OTHERWISE FRUITS MAY DROP EARLY, ROT AT THE BLOSSOM END OR BE POORLY SHAPED - SLICING MELONS ARE BEST WHEN THEY ARE 20 TO 30 POUNDS IN SIZE - PREFER DAY TEMPS RANGING BETWEEN 75-90 AND NIGHT TEMPS BETWEEN 60-70








COOL SEASON CROPS

BEETS (50-65 DAYS)
EASILY TRANSPLANTABLE FROM A STARTER POT - THIN WHEN 4-5" TALL TO ALLOW REMAINING PLANTS TO MATURE - EAT THE YOUNG GREENS - MOST BEET CROPS ARE HEAVY YIELDERS AND ARE NOT INJURED BY LIGHT FROST AND CAN WITHSTAND SOME AMOUNT OF FREEZING - BEET SEEDS REQUIRE AMPLE WATER FOR GERMINATION - BEST SOIL TEMP FOR GERMINATION IS 55-75 - OPTIMAL AIR TEMPS RANGE BETWEEN 60-65 - BEETS GROW BEST WITH AT LEAST SIX HOURS FULL SUN - WARMER WEATHER CASUSES BEETS TO LOSE COLOR AND GET WOODY

BROCCOLI (55-90 DAYS)
EASILY TRANSPLANTABLE FROM A STARTER POT - SPACING 12" - 18" APART IN A WIDE BED - PLANTS ARE VERY HARDY WHEN STARTED IN FALL AND WILL CONTINUE THROUGH EARLY SPRING - GENERAL GROWING CONDITIONS ARE SIMILAR TO CABBAGE - HARVEST MAIN HEAD AT 60-90 DAYS AND CONTINUE HARVESTING SIDE SHOOTS - HEAVY FEEDERS - NEED LOTS OF COMPOST - OPTIMAL GROWING TEMPS ARE 60-65 DEGREES

CABBAGE (70-110 DAYS)
LEAFY VEGETABLES REQUIRE MORE NITROGEN - PLANT NEXT TO LEGUMES AS LEGUMES MAKE THEIR OWN NITROGEN AND MAY LEECH SOME IN TO THE SOIL PROVIDING BETTER NUTRIENTS FOR LEAFY VEGETABLES - EASILY TRANSPLANTABLE FROM A STARTER POT - DO NOT LET SEEDLINGS GO BEYOND 5 WEEKS BEFORE TRANSPLANTING OR MAXIMUM SIZE WILL NOT BE ACHIEVED - LARGE HEADS REQUIRE ABUNDANT COMPOST THAT IS TILLED DEEPLY - PLANT IN WIDE ROWS 12" APART BUT SHALLOWLY AS ROOTS STAY CLOSE TO SURFACE AND GROW HORIZONTALLY - REQUIRES ABUNDANT MOISTURE AND FERTILIZER AND DOES NOT DO WELL IN VERY ACIDIC SOIL - PREFERS TEMPS RANGING FROM 60-65 DEGREES AND WILL BOLT AT 80 DEGREES




CARROTS (65-80 DAYS)
PLANT SEEDS CLOSE TOGETHER TO HELP SEEDLINGS BREAK THROUGH SOIL. SMALLER SEEDS MAY DRY OUT BEFORE SPROUTING - COVER WITH DAMP BURLAP UNTIL SPROUTS APPEAR - REQUIRE CARE WHEN TRANSPLANTING FROM STARTER POTS - THIN WHEN 2-3" TALL LEAVING 1" BETWEEN REMAINING PLANTS TO ALLOW FOR GROWTH - PREFER DEEP FERTILE, MOIST SOIL AND ARE SLOW TO GERMINATE - OPTIMAL TEMPS ARE 60-65 - WILL STOP GERMINATING AND GROWING WHEN TEMPS GET ABOVE 95 - WARM WEATHER CAUSES CARROTS TO TURN BITTER AND WOODY


CAULIFLOWER (60-90 DAYS)
EASILY TRANSPLANTABLE FROM A STARTER POT BUT NOT RECOMMENDED FOR THE AVERAGE HOME GARDEN AS IT CAN BE DIFFICULT TO GROW - OPTIMAL GROWING TEMPS ARE 60-65 DEGREES

CELERY (90-120 DAYS)
REQUIRE CARE WHEN TRANSPLANTING FROM STARTER POTS - NOT RECOMMENDED FOR THE AVERAGE HOME GARDEN BECAUSE OF SOIL SENSITIVITIES - THRIVES IN COOL MOIST LOCATIONS - CAN TOLERATE SOME SHADE BUT NEEDS AT LEAST 1/2 DAY FULL SUN - REQUIRES LOTS OF MOISUTRE AND CAN WITHSTAND BEING WATERLOGGED BETTER THAN MOST CROPS - START SEEDS 70-80 DAYS BEFORE GARDEN SET - SEEDS CAN TAKE 2-3 WEEKS TO GERMINATE AT A MINIMUM TEMPERATURE OF 40 - OPTIMAL TEMPERATURE OF 60-70 - ANYTHING ABOVE 75 WILL SLOW GERMINATION AND PLANT GROWTH - DAYS TO MATURITY AFTER GARDEN SET ARE 90-120

CELERIAC (110 DAYS)
SOAK SEEDS OVERNIGHT BEFORE STARTING - CAN TAKE TWO TO THREE WEEKS TO GERMINATE - CRAVES MOISTURE LIKE CELERY - LIKES A RICH DIET SO FERTILIZE WITH FISH EMULSION EVERY TWO WEEKS AFTER GARDEN SET - SNAP OFF LATERAL ROOTS AT GROUND LEVEL - BEFORE HARVESTING START CUTTING OFF OUTER LEAVES TO PROMOTE BETTER BULB GROWTH - KEEP BULB COVERED WITH SOIL OR HAY TO KEEP BULB MOIST AND COOL - PREFERRED GROWING TEMPS ARE 60-65 - WHEN SEEDLINGS ARE 1 1-12" TALL TRANSPLANT TO GARDEN





COLLARDS (70-80 DAYS)
LEAFY VEGETABLES REQUIRE MORE NITROGEN - PLANT NEXT TO LEGUMES AS LEGUMES MAKE THEIR OWN NITROGEN AND MAY LEECH SOME IN TO THE SOIL PROVIDING BETTER NUTRIENTS FOR LEAFY VEGETABLES - EASILY TRANSPLANTABLE FROM A STARTER POT - COLLARDS ARE MORE HEAT TOLERANT THAN CABBAGE AND IS HARDY IN COLD WEATHER




LEEK (APPROX. 5 MONTHS)
REQUIRE CARE WHEN TRANSPLANTING FROM STARTER POTS - START SEEDS IN FALL AND GROW LIKE THE COMMON ONION - ANOTHER SOURCE SAYS MOST LEEKS ARE GROWN FROM TRANSPLANTS - LEEKS TAKE APPROXIMATELY 5 MONTHS TO MATURE - OPTIMUM GROWING TEMPS ARE 45-85

LETTUCE (50-80 DAYS)
LEAFY VEGETABLES REQUIRE MORE NITROGEN - PLANT NEXT TO LEGUMES AS LEGUMES MAKE THEIR OWN NITROGEN AND MAY LEECH SOME IN TO THE SOIL PROVIDING BETTER NUTRIENTS FOR LEAFY VEGETABLES - EASILY TRANSPLANTABLE FROM A STARTER POTS - HARDY COOL SEASON CROP THAT DOES WELL IN WELL FERTILIZED, MOIST SOIL - CRISPHEAD VARIETIES SHOULD BE GROWN ONLY IN THE COOLEST MONTHS WHILE LEAFY VARIETIES ARE MORE TOLERANT TO SLIGHTLY WARMER TEMPERATURES - LETTUCE IS MOSTLY WATER SO REGULAR WATERING IS IMPORTANT FOR GROWTH - OPTIMAL GROWING TEMPS ARE 60-65 DEGREES - AT 70-80 LETTUCE WILL BOLT

ONIONS (90-190 DAYS OR UP TO 6 MONTHS)
HARVEST WHEN TOPS FALL OVER – POSSIBLY AS LATE AS EARLY SPRING OR SIX MONTHS

PEAS, ENGLISH (50-70 DAYS)
BEFORE PLANTING SET UP STAKES OR TRELLISES - REQUIRE PLANTING POTS WHEN TRANSPLANTING - PLANT A FEW SEEDS EVERY 3" THEN THIN TO ONE PLANT EVERY 3" – BEST WAY TO GET A SUCCESSION OF PEAS GROWING IS TO PICK SEVERAL VARIETIES WITH DIFFERENT MATURATION DATES AND PLANT THEM ALL AT THE SAME TIME SO THE CROP HAS STAGGERED GROWTH OR PLANT SAME VARIETY WITH STAGGERED PLANTINGS APPROXIMATELY 2 WEEKS APART - KEEP SOIL MOIST AFTER GERMINATION AND WEED OFTEN - DO NOT ADD EXTRA NITROGEN - PEAS LIKE TWO MONTHS OF 55-70 DEGREE TEMPS - PEAS DO NOT LIKE TEMPS ABOVE 80 DEGREES AND WILL WITHER AND DIE - PEAS NEED PLENTY OF PHOSPHORUOUS AND POTASSIUM FOR POD DEVELOPMENT - ADD A BOOK OF MATCHES TO HOLE BEFORE TRANSPLANTING - DO NOT PLANT PEAS NEXT TO GARLIC, ONIONS, LEEKS OR SHALLOTS

RADISH (28 DAYS)
REQUIRE PLANTING POTS WHEN TRANSPLANTING - SUMMER RADISHES ARE HARDY AND QUICK TO MATURE - SMALL ROUND VARIETIES DEVELOP MORE QUICKLY THAN SLENDER ONES - PLANT A FEW FEET PER ROW AT A TIME EVERY 10 DAYS TO 2 WEEKS FOR A CONTINUOUS SUPPLY - WINTER RADISHES GROW VERY LARGE (UP TO 10-20 POUNDS) AND ARE CALLED ORIENTAL RADHISHES - WINTER RADISHES ARE TENDER EVEN WHEY THEY ARE LARGE - DAIKON IS AN ORIENTAL RADISH - OPTIMAL GROWING TEMPS ARE BETWEEN 50-65

RUTABAGA (80-120 DAYS)
REQUIRE PLANTING POTS WHEN TRANSPLANTING - GROW AS YOU WOULD TURNIPS - OPTIMAL GROWING TEMPERATURES ARE BETWEEN 40-70 - HARVEST BEFORE 75 DEGREES

SPINACH (45-60 DAYS)
LEAFY VEGETABLES REQUIRE MORE NITROGEN - PLANT NEXT TO LEGUMES AS LEGUMES MAKE THEIR OWN NITROGEN AND MAY LEECH SOME IN TO THE SOIL PROVIDING BETTER NUTRIENTS FOR LEAFY VEGETABLES - REQUIRE CARE WHEN TRANSPLANTING FROM STARTER POTS - HARDY CROP THAT GROWS BEST IN COOLER TEMPERATURES - WITHSTANDS FREEZING BETTER THAN MOST VEGETABLES - WILL BOLT WHEN DAYS BEGIN TO LENGTHEN IN SPRING - GROW NEW ZEALAND SPINACH OR SWISS CHARD IN WARMER WEATHER FOR SUMMER GREENS - PREFERS TEMPS RANGING FROM 50-70 DEGREES - CUT LEAVES 3" ABOVE SOIL WHEN HARVESTING FOR MORE PRODUCTION - SPINACH CAN ALSO BE GROWN IN A CONTAINER - SPINACH IS HEAT SENSITIVE SO MOVE CONTAINERS TO A SHADED AREA ON WARM DAYS AS CONTAINERS WILL WARM MORE QUICKLY THAN GARDEN SOIL - MAKE SURE CONTAINER IS AT LEAST 10" ACROSS PER PLANT

SPINACH, NEW ZEALAND (60 DAYS)
NEW ZEALAND SPINACH IS ENTIRELY DIFFERENT THAN COMMON SPINACH WITH REGARD TO CULTIVATION EVEN THOUGH IT IS COOKED AND EATEN THE SAME WAY - FLAVOR IS SIMILAR TO SPINACH BUT IS MILDER - HEAT RESISTANT, WARM WEATHER PLANT THAT IS TENDER TO FROST - SEEDS ARE LARGE AND SLOW TO GERMINATE BUT PRODUCE MULTIPLE BRANCHES OF LEAVES THAT GROW 1' HIGH WITH A 2' OR MORE SPREAD - ONCE THE PLANT HAS A SPREAD OF AT LEAST 1' THE END TWO OR THREE INCHES OF BRANCHES MAY BE HARVESTED WITH A KNIFE - NEW GROWTH WILL ARISE ALONG THESE BRANCHES - AVOID HARVESTING TOO EARLY TO AVOID GROWTH RETARDATION


SPINACH, MALABAR (50-70 DAYS)
HEAT RESISTANT PLANT THAT WILL PROVIDE LEAFY GREENS DURING SUMMER MONTHS - MALABAR IS NOT A TRUE SPINACH BUT IS EATEN IN THE SAME MANNER - MALABAR SPINACH IS A VINING PLANT

STRAWBERRY
EASILY TRANSPLANTABLE FROM A STARTER POT - SET PLANTS 12" X 12" APART ON BEDS THAT ARE MULCHED WITH BLACK PLASTIC, STRAW OR SPOILED HAY - PLANTS SET IN THE FALL WILL BLOSSOM IN THE COLD SHORT DAYS OF WINTER AND CONTINUE TO AROUND MAY - RUNNERS GROW FROM EACH MOTHER PLANT IN THE SUMMER AND CAN BE REMOVED AND RESET FOR FURTHER PLANT PRODUCTION - NEW PLANTS ARE ADVISABLE EACH SUBSEQUENT YEAR

TURNIPS (40-60 DAYS)
REQUIRE PLANTING POTS WHEN TRANSPLANTING - THIN WHEN 4-5" TALL TO ALLOW REMAINING PLANTS TO MATURE - EAT THE YOUNG GREENS - QUICK GROWING CROP - OPTIMAL GROWING TEMPERATURES ARE BETWEEN 40-70 - HARVEST BEFORE 75 DEGREES

Sniper-T
07-13-2012, 04:58 PM
Awesome list!!

thanks

ladyhk13
07-15-2012, 06:29 AM
Awesome list JustA..thank you.

Katrina
07-23-2012, 03:34 AM
Thanks Justa now I know what to have DH plant next year.