Sniper-T
09-05-2012, 11:59 AM
Does anyone maintain a cache? what's it's purpose? Is it enroute home or to your BOL? How often do you check on it or update it? What do you have in it?
I came across this article a while back, I don't know where, but the author is notated.
CACHE: BETTER SAFE THAN SORRY
by Ian McInnis
"The idea of caching may be drastic to some, but not if you are a student
of history...."
(American Survival Guide // December 1994)
Let’s face it. The idea of actually taking your prize possessions and putting them into hiding, or caching, seems almost ludicrous. Personally, I like to get them out and just “play” with them. I take great pride in owning my toys. Caching, to place something in hiding, really does seem a bit drastic in a sense, doesn’t it? In this article the assertion that everyone must decide for themselves stands alone. Is the time at hand? Only you can answer that. Still, if you think it may be, keep reading.
In an effort to focus on a more practical or rational point of view, the past must be explored. Historically, people have always used so called implements of war for both peaceful and forceful purposes. To foment uprisings, disturb the peace, or to thwart the same. By implements of war we mean, tools such as firearms, bows, edged or pointed objects and blunt instruments. The people who advocate “gun control” (a euphemism for people control) do not actually fear the implements of war, they fear those who possess the implements of war. Therefor, the agenda must be seen for what it really is: a plan to control a population, while limiting the liability to those seizing the power. A historical list of these lessons would fill volumes and volumes. Clearly, our own history should ring a familiar bell in terms of people control. The British Crown, advocated the total disarmament of the colonial population by whatever means possible, including, finally, shooting all those civilians bearing firearms. Caching, or hiding clearly stands as the antithesis of this agenda. Caching must be more than just stashing them in your back yard. It must be carefully contrived and perfectly executed. So, for the sake of simplicity and organization here, caching has been divided into three “threat” levels. Each level corresponds to the threat level perceived by the individual caching. Then, a brief description of caches or an anatomy of a cache. Finally, a complete explanation for deployment of your cache. Level one, defined as a hasty “hiding” of your cache items. This, most often, will be hidden in the home or work. The principal idea, to have the item close at hand. The major disadvantage, it can be found relatively easily by a trained searcher, thus, a high risk. Preparation for the caching items does not require extensive work, only light plastic covering like 4 mil bags and light oiling. Level one most commonly will be used when the threat level to your cache items tends to be low. Level two, has a more serious nature to it. Here you will prepare the cache for a longer term. The threat to the items you have is potentially high, perhaps they are either illegal or will be. In a level two cache, preparation will be similar to a level three, the deployment will differ. The proximity to your operational area must be far enough removed to be out of direct range, yet, still within a half hour of travel under normal circumstances. For example, a gym locker or a friend’s garage. Here, the cache will be available, though not directly accessible. Level three, the threat is imminent. Signals have given you a clear cut reason to be greatly concerned. Perhaps, confiscation or incarceration could transpire. Thus, a level three cache must be prepared for a long term storage. High threat level caches tend to be organized like military caches for obvious reasons. Deployment should be within one hour range of your operational area and be set up to meet the needs you feel may arise. The critical nature of a level three cache calls for strict attention to detail. There are several ways to deploy high threat caches, including burial, submersion and concealment.
ANATOMY OF A CACHE:
When the cache parameters require long term storage capabilities, the cache must be deployed using a layered system. This layering consists of four elements: the item you are caching, an inner protective membrane, a closed barrier and a container. We will discuss each of these briefly.
1. The item you intend to cache. For the sake of the article, the author uses an AKM rifle, a .22 pistol, some ammo and a selection of gear.
2. Each item that contains ferrous metal (metal made with iron) must be coated or covered with a protective membrane to restrict corrosion or rust. Here the author uses a thin coating of lithium grease, although there are many excellent such preservatives. A word of caution, some products designed for specific applications may not be suited to long term storage. Check with the manufacturer to be sure. Also, the heavier the preservative you use, the more cleaning there will be. Stocks made of plastic need no special treatment. Wood stocks should be treated with the manufacturer’s suggested treatment like linseed oil. Chinese imports, come with a heavy coating of grease, for good reason. The cacher should take a lesson from them.
3. Once coated, the items get the bag. A good choice would be a 4 mil thick plastic bag. Some bags like the one shown are laced with a special treatment to resist oxidation. Double bagging offers the most security in the event of a container compromise. Simply push the air from the bag and seal it shut. Here the author uses simple zip ties from any automotive store.
4. There are many different types of containers available to the public.
The author likes to use PVC tubing, SDR-35 (sewer and drain pipe) this pipe comes in standard 20-foot lengths and the caps are standard fittings. To cut the pipe, use a reciprocating saw. Permanently seal one end with PVC glue and cap the other end with a standard boot cap. The Patriot Safe shown here is an excellent example of the preassembled caches on the market. To seal the lid for long term storage, use the same lithium grease around the inside of the lid to create an air tight, water tight seal. When the lid is pressed on the safe, an air lock is created through the compression of the air in the container. Once the air pressure settles, the lid is held in place by a negative vacuum, much like the thermal dynamics in a hot or cold beverage container. To remove the lid, equal force must be exerted on the lid upwards. If you have difficulty, a hole may be drilled in the top of the lid to offset the air pressure. Cache containers using threaded closures can leak due to capillary action. Great care must be exercised to insure a correct leak proof seal. Use an “O”-ring or a gasket if possible. The author has learned that grease alone will not seal the threaded closure well enough. When out shopping, use a keen eye, some plumbing parts are not built to high enough tolerance standards to achieve the right fit. Be sure to get good parts or purchase a pre-made canister from a reputable company. In the long run this will save you time and money.
Place the items you intend to cache into the canister. A dry run or two may be needed to get all the parts in satisfactorily. Finally, desiccant can be helpful to reduce any residual moisture trapped inside the container. Desiccant, hygroscopic by nature (meaning to attract moisture in the atmosphere) will trap the moisture and hold it. Arguably, desiccant is only needed in areas where the relative humidity is high enough to rust things standing still, but the added safety will help. Here the author used CaSO4 known as Dri-rite. This desiccant can be found in many drug stores and mail order houses. It does not create any gases or third agents when exposed to water, making it excellent for caching. Place the desiccant into a breathable sachet, like an old cotton sock, then, toss it into the canister prior to sealing.
STRATEGIC, TACTICAL PLANNING:
Strategic and tactical considerations for a level three cache.
1. The site you choose must be carefully chosen to meet the demands.
A. Dependable—Under situations of duress, does the site have the ability to have a security team watch over it?
B. Proximity—If transportation becomes scarce, can the site be walked to?
C. Control—Do you have control of the site or will there be construction? Could earth movement cause a possible breach of the site?
D. Site Address—Can the site be easily located, are there landmarks to guide you?
2. Deployment—Choose a site familiar to you. Perhaps one that you know from your childhood or hunting trips. Geographic points not subject to change can not be over emphasized. Large outcroppings of rocks, permanent manmade structures or physical landmarks all may help you later when you go to retrieve your safe. Finally, you must find or create an accurate address to your cache site.
A site address contains the following bits of data:
1. Find the six or eight digit grid coordinates by using a standard military grid system. See FM-21-26 MAP READING and LAND NAVIGATION, for more information.
2. Draw a physical map of the cache site. Detail the major land marks not subject to change. Use a sturdy paper then treat with a map preservative.
3. The contents of the safe, a basic description.
4. The date the cache was placed in the ground.
5. If any of the safe contents are subject to time limitation, like food, medical supplies.
6. Also, include any information on safety precautions such as booby traps (NOT recommended), warning devices or area hazards such as high power lines, gas lines, unfriendly people, etc.
While there are several ways to cache a level three cache, here we discuss a burial type.
To create a space for the cache, plan on working. Power tools, such as post hole augers will make the job easier, still, hand tools will be handy. Keep the site as sterile as possible. Earth removed from the hole you create should be treated with caution. Ground cloths help keep the environment clean surrounding the site. Remember, the earth or soil you displace must be removed. A good way to remove the soil would be burlap sacks. If the area resembles an archaeological dig, it may tip your hand. A vertical space (90 degrees to the ground) will offer less of a metal registry, yet, a well placed cache site, in theory, should support any type of burial. One very important advantage to placing the cache container perpendicular to the ground will be the retrieval of the cached items. A cache place parallel to the ground must be totally removed, while a perpendicular cache can be accessed and re-sealed. Dig the hole or make the place you want to use suitable. Once your cache is in the earth or placed in your space, the area needs to be physically sterilized. Create a natural look. Do what you can to make the cache site look as natural as possible.
Finally, a few tips to remember when caching.
1. Think in terms of security. While you may not be under duress when you cache the items, retrieval may be quite another story.
2. Keep the information about your cache to yourself. A braggart may not find his cache there upon his return. If you must tell someone, do so via your address.
3. Make several caches, complete with a variety of items. Remember, things in good supply today may be scarce in a rush.
4. You can not totally secure a site, metal detectors in the hands of a pro will find the cache, so cache in places they will never look. Increase any possible search area by going further out.
5. Read all the data you can on the subject, it can never hurt to be as well read as possible.
In closing, the idea of caching may be drastic to some, but not if you are a student of history. Think in terms of being a treasure hider. What do you treasure most that may come under the scrutiny of certain people? Cache it!
We stand as the last bastion of freedom. Now, as in the past, we have a duty to perform. It does seem a bit odd to put your prized possessions into a cache, and what a shame we even must consider it. Still, the alternative of hoping nothing happens, while waiting to see, is simply foolish. Indeed, drastic times always call for drastic measures. So do your part, dig deep, but do not delay, because the future of this great land depends, in part, on what you have prepared for.
I came across this article a while back, I don't know where, but the author is notated.
CACHE: BETTER SAFE THAN SORRY
by Ian McInnis
"The idea of caching may be drastic to some, but not if you are a student
of history...."
(American Survival Guide // December 1994)
Let’s face it. The idea of actually taking your prize possessions and putting them into hiding, or caching, seems almost ludicrous. Personally, I like to get them out and just “play” with them. I take great pride in owning my toys. Caching, to place something in hiding, really does seem a bit drastic in a sense, doesn’t it? In this article the assertion that everyone must decide for themselves stands alone. Is the time at hand? Only you can answer that. Still, if you think it may be, keep reading.
In an effort to focus on a more practical or rational point of view, the past must be explored. Historically, people have always used so called implements of war for both peaceful and forceful purposes. To foment uprisings, disturb the peace, or to thwart the same. By implements of war we mean, tools such as firearms, bows, edged or pointed objects and blunt instruments. The people who advocate “gun control” (a euphemism for people control) do not actually fear the implements of war, they fear those who possess the implements of war. Therefor, the agenda must be seen for what it really is: a plan to control a population, while limiting the liability to those seizing the power. A historical list of these lessons would fill volumes and volumes. Clearly, our own history should ring a familiar bell in terms of people control. The British Crown, advocated the total disarmament of the colonial population by whatever means possible, including, finally, shooting all those civilians bearing firearms. Caching, or hiding clearly stands as the antithesis of this agenda. Caching must be more than just stashing them in your back yard. It must be carefully contrived and perfectly executed. So, for the sake of simplicity and organization here, caching has been divided into three “threat” levels. Each level corresponds to the threat level perceived by the individual caching. Then, a brief description of caches or an anatomy of a cache. Finally, a complete explanation for deployment of your cache. Level one, defined as a hasty “hiding” of your cache items. This, most often, will be hidden in the home or work. The principal idea, to have the item close at hand. The major disadvantage, it can be found relatively easily by a trained searcher, thus, a high risk. Preparation for the caching items does not require extensive work, only light plastic covering like 4 mil bags and light oiling. Level one most commonly will be used when the threat level to your cache items tends to be low. Level two, has a more serious nature to it. Here you will prepare the cache for a longer term. The threat to the items you have is potentially high, perhaps they are either illegal or will be. In a level two cache, preparation will be similar to a level three, the deployment will differ. The proximity to your operational area must be far enough removed to be out of direct range, yet, still within a half hour of travel under normal circumstances. For example, a gym locker or a friend’s garage. Here, the cache will be available, though not directly accessible. Level three, the threat is imminent. Signals have given you a clear cut reason to be greatly concerned. Perhaps, confiscation or incarceration could transpire. Thus, a level three cache must be prepared for a long term storage. High threat level caches tend to be organized like military caches for obvious reasons. Deployment should be within one hour range of your operational area and be set up to meet the needs you feel may arise. The critical nature of a level three cache calls for strict attention to detail. There are several ways to deploy high threat caches, including burial, submersion and concealment.
ANATOMY OF A CACHE:
When the cache parameters require long term storage capabilities, the cache must be deployed using a layered system. This layering consists of four elements: the item you are caching, an inner protective membrane, a closed barrier and a container. We will discuss each of these briefly.
1. The item you intend to cache. For the sake of the article, the author uses an AKM rifle, a .22 pistol, some ammo and a selection of gear.
2. Each item that contains ferrous metal (metal made with iron) must be coated or covered with a protective membrane to restrict corrosion or rust. Here the author uses a thin coating of lithium grease, although there are many excellent such preservatives. A word of caution, some products designed for specific applications may not be suited to long term storage. Check with the manufacturer to be sure. Also, the heavier the preservative you use, the more cleaning there will be. Stocks made of plastic need no special treatment. Wood stocks should be treated with the manufacturer’s suggested treatment like linseed oil. Chinese imports, come with a heavy coating of grease, for good reason. The cacher should take a lesson from them.
3. Once coated, the items get the bag. A good choice would be a 4 mil thick plastic bag. Some bags like the one shown are laced with a special treatment to resist oxidation. Double bagging offers the most security in the event of a container compromise. Simply push the air from the bag and seal it shut. Here the author uses simple zip ties from any automotive store.
4. There are many different types of containers available to the public.
The author likes to use PVC tubing, SDR-35 (sewer and drain pipe) this pipe comes in standard 20-foot lengths and the caps are standard fittings. To cut the pipe, use a reciprocating saw. Permanently seal one end with PVC glue and cap the other end with a standard boot cap. The Patriot Safe shown here is an excellent example of the preassembled caches on the market. To seal the lid for long term storage, use the same lithium grease around the inside of the lid to create an air tight, water tight seal. When the lid is pressed on the safe, an air lock is created through the compression of the air in the container. Once the air pressure settles, the lid is held in place by a negative vacuum, much like the thermal dynamics in a hot or cold beverage container. To remove the lid, equal force must be exerted on the lid upwards. If you have difficulty, a hole may be drilled in the top of the lid to offset the air pressure. Cache containers using threaded closures can leak due to capillary action. Great care must be exercised to insure a correct leak proof seal. Use an “O”-ring or a gasket if possible. The author has learned that grease alone will not seal the threaded closure well enough. When out shopping, use a keen eye, some plumbing parts are not built to high enough tolerance standards to achieve the right fit. Be sure to get good parts or purchase a pre-made canister from a reputable company. In the long run this will save you time and money.
Place the items you intend to cache into the canister. A dry run or two may be needed to get all the parts in satisfactorily. Finally, desiccant can be helpful to reduce any residual moisture trapped inside the container. Desiccant, hygroscopic by nature (meaning to attract moisture in the atmosphere) will trap the moisture and hold it. Arguably, desiccant is only needed in areas where the relative humidity is high enough to rust things standing still, but the added safety will help. Here the author used CaSO4 known as Dri-rite. This desiccant can be found in many drug stores and mail order houses. It does not create any gases or third agents when exposed to water, making it excellent for caching. Place the desiccant into a breathable sachet, like an old cotton sock, then, toss it into the canister prior to sealing.
STRATEGIC, TACTICAL PLANNING:
Strategic and tactical considerations for a level three cache.
1. The site you choose must be carefully chosen to meet the demands.
A. Dependable—Under situations of duress, does the site have the ability to have a security team watch over it?
B. Proximity—If transportation becomes scarce, can the site be walked to?
C. Control—Do you have control of the site or will there be construction? Could earth movement cause a possible breach of the site?
D. Site Address—Can the site be easily located, are there landmarks to guide you?
2. Deployment—Choose a site familiar to you. Perhaps one that you know from your childhood or hunting trips. Geographic points not subject to change can not be over emphasized. Large outcroppings of rocks, permanent manmade structures or physical landmarks all may help you later when you go to retrieve your safe. Finally, you must find or create an accurate address to your cache site.
A site address contains the following bits of data:
1. Find the six or eight digit grid coordinates by using a standard military grid system. See FM-21-26 MAP READING and LAND NAVIGATION, for more information.
2. Draw a physical map of the cache site. Detail the major land marks not subject to change. Use a sturdy paper then treat with a map preservative.
3. The contents of the safe, a basic description.
4. The date the cache was placed in the ground.
5. If any of the safe contents are subject to time limitation, like food, medical supplies.
6. Also, include any information on safety precautions such as booby traps (NOT recommended), warning devices or area hazards such as high power lines, gas lines, unfriendly people, etc.
While there are several ways to cache a level three cache, here we discuss a burial type.
To create a space for the cache, plan on working. Power tools, such as post hole augers will make the job easier, still, hand tools will be handy. Keep the site as sterile as possible. Earth removed from the hole you create should be treated with caution. Ground cloths help keep the environment clean surrounding the site. Remember, the earth or soil you displace must be removed. A good way to remove the soil would be burlap sacks. If the area resembles an archaeological dig, it may tip your hand. A vertical space (90 degrees to the ground) will offer less of a metal registry, yet, a well placed cache site, in theory, should support any type of burial. One very important advantage to placing the cache container perpendicular to the ground will be the retrieval of the cached items. A cache place parallel to the ground must be totally removed, while a perpendicular cache can be accessed and re-sealed. Dig the hole or make the place you want to use suitable. Once your cache is in the earth or placed in your space, the area needs to be physically sterilized. Create a natural look. Do what you can to make the cache site look as natural as possible.
Finally, a few tips to remember when caching.
1. Think in terms of security. While you may not be under duress when you cache the items, retrieval may be quite another story.
2. Keep the information about your cache to yourself. A braggart may not find his cache there upon his return. If you must tell someone, do so via your address.
3. Make several caches, complete with a variety of items. Remember, things in good supply today may be scarce in a rush.
4. You can not totally secure a site, metal detectors in the hands of a pro will find the cache, so cache in places they will never look. Increase any possible search area by going further out.
5. Read all the data you can on the subject, it can never hurt to be as well read as possible.
In closing, the idea of caching may be drastic to some, but not if you are a student of history. Think in terms of being a treasure hider. What do you treasure most that may come under the scrutiny of certain people? Cache it!
We stand as the last bastion of freedom. Now, as in the past, we have a duty to perform. It does seem a bit odd to put your prized possessions into a cache, and what a shame we even must consider it. Still, the alternative of hoping nothing happens, while waiting to see, is simply foolish. Indeed, drastic times always call for drastic measures. So do your part, dig deep, but do not delay, because the future of this great land depends, in part, on what you have prepared for.