How would you modernize the cowboy's bedroll?

[mitunnelrat]

Warm shelter is obviously still very much at the forefront of my mind. Something I'd been looking for in addition to an enclosed shelter is a more compact blanket than the usgi poncho liner. Well, I was at Gander Mountain before work today, and I found exactly what I'm looking for. Sleeping bag liners.http://www.seatosummit.com/products/cat/1

The liners I saw packed down into a very compact 3"x5" package, and gave varying degrees of added warmth and weight depending on the type and style selected of each type.

The silk liner, 73" x 36" rectangular, adds 10*F
The silk liner, 82" x 36" with a hood, also weighs in at 4.8 oz, and adds 10*F
The Reactor Extreme Thermolite® Liner weighs in at 14 oz. adds 25* F. It may be larger than 3"x5" stuffed though, I didn't see it in person.

I think the rectangular silk liner would be a better choice for my EDC kit than the poncho liner because it packs down so much smaller and (iirc) is also a bit lighter. I was immediately struck by something I had just read in Backwoodsman magazine as well though: an article on bedrolls.

I liked the concept quite a bit, but again, cotton canvas and wool are heavy, so I don't want to carry a traditional roll. But a few of these liners... Now there's an option. Smaller and lighter than the USGI MSS, and I wouldn't be enclosed in a mummy sack, so I'd be able to react to trouble much quicker.

That still left me missing an appropriate outer layer. Then I found this:
http://wardsci.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_IG0017039
A nomex and kevlar fire protection blanket. If my estimations are correct, it weighs in at 8.7 ounces per square yard, compared to 11.5-32 ounces per square yard of cotton canvas. This blanket should weigh in at no more than 2.5 pounds. Total weight with 2 rectangular silk liners, one hooded silk liner, and a reactor liner would be < 5 pounds, even after adding a backpacking tarp for overhead cover and some sort of ground sheet.

I'd add those last two items as part of the package because, like the canvas, nomex will absorb some water. However, it is lightweight, abrasion and chemical resistant, and extremely fire retardant. What concerns me with it does involve the fire though. I read that nomex will carbonize at roughly 800*F, so any sparks or embers coming into contact with it would become brittle and eventually open up into pinholes. I realize this happens with canvas as well, but I'm not sure yet how I'd make repairs.

I'm also not sure how close I could lay to a fire and keep from degrading or damaging it, so I'll be doing some more research unless someone here has any idea.

I do like the idea of a bedroll though. For many of the reasons stated and also because I could more easily adjust the level of bedding to the temperature outside. The coldest recorded temp in my area is -20* F, so if I'm looking at this correctly I'd still be able to raise my sleeping temperature above 0 with the layers I've outlined. Please correct me if I'm missing something here.

Anyway, that's my take on it, I'm intrigued with the idea of setting up such a versatile and lightweight shelter system.

What do you think, and how would you do it?

[bacpacker]

I like the silk bag liners they feel nice. For a GHB, I have a 6x8 tarp and an emergency blanket for sleeping. I don't plan on spending any more time than I need getting home and this is the lightest, least space, and quickest set up/exit rigs I could come up with. For the BOB, I lean more toward a Sleeping bag, mine weights just over 2 lb and is good to zero. Along with a tarp 1lb or less, tent 4lb or less, or a bivy bag just over 1 lb. It sort of needs some other factors figured in, such as season, expected time out and moving, etc.

I have not looked at the Thermo lite stuff at all.

[Jimmy24]

Wow it's funny you should start this thread. I just finished acquiring the materials for my second bedroll. I wore the first one pretty much out over a 20+ year life. I have toted it all over the place. Mine is heavy, as it is canvas and wool, but the wear ability is incredible. I do like your idea. I have been thinking I may use something lighter for the mattress bag to save some weight. Keep us informed as you construct your new bedroll. :cool:

Jimmy

[mitunnelrat]

This is a back burner idea, so its not likely to see completion any time soon.

I would be extremely interested in a review of your kit if you're willing though.

[4suchatimeasthis]

A few things to note; cowboys wore layers, they wore heavy lined, long style coats, they wore chaps which added more layers...and when the bedded down they kept most of their layers on. It's not like striping down to your skivvies and crawling in a sleeping bag, lol. I'm sure most of you know this, but I thought i'd throw it out there for those who didnt know. Also, they used their saddle blankets, and slept with their saddles, as those were usually their most valued and valuable possession.

[mitunnelrat]

and from what I'm reading they kept ALL of their possessions rolled in one, it served as their backpack or "trunk" for some, since they could get large enough to require a wagon to haul.

The layering ability of a bedroll is incredibly appealing though. It seems like it'd be easier to fine tune it for better comfort than a sleeping bag.

[The Stig]

This thread is now my favorite.

Excellent idea and discussion. Looking forward to hearing more from the ants on this.

[hank2222]

Since i did use something like back when i was traveling alot and set it up in a studio apt i would rent for the time i was there .

I started with a custom made full sized exlong futon mattress -x-10.inchs thick .then had a person who sew tent canvas togerther make me a outer cover with a slot for the mattress inside the unit with the top part rolls down and becomes the part of the end of th bed roll with ties .

The i could use full exlong sheets on the unit along with blankets and pillows and sleep on the floor .Everything i had could fit inside the vehicle and when i need to move it was easly as packing up the stuff into two bags and it was ready to be loaded into the vehicle.

The large items like the mircowave oven and office chair and folding table and milk crate that acts as a bed side stand was loaded with item and reading lamp was then loaded into the vehicle for travel

[Jimmy24]

My old bedroll is sort of old school. But it has served me well. Nothing more than a used Hudson Point wool blanket and a good portion of 10oz canvas. I had brass snaps every 15 inches or so. That is because it worked out to have them evenly down the sides. I snapped the blanket to the canvas and can snap the canvas together at the foot and up the sides. I treated the canvas to ward the water/moisture off as best I could. I also had a 6’ 6” x 3’ 6” stuff bag. One end sewn along with both long sides. Snaps on the other end. This was used as a “carry bag”, a stuffed mattress bag and just a plain extra ground cloth.

Now I’m sure if I lived in a colder climate, I would have more insulating material. But I have slept very cozy in 25 degree weather. Mind you as one of the posters mentioned, I sleep with most of the daily clothes on. Kicked off the boots and socks and had “sleeping socks” to put on.

Having snaps makes it easy to take apart to shake out before rolling up and when time to clean.

Yes it’s heavy and somewhat a PITA to carry, but for me I will never use a sleeping bag again. The pure ruggedness of the canvas is just plain awesome. Only difference in my new one is the wool blanket. I found a new Polish military one in my favorite surplus store for $29!!! Even on ebay, Hudson Points get big $$$$ now a days. You can purchase the canvas at Harbor Freight. It’s pretty inexpensive. It’s in the paint supply area.

Just right for me…:cool:

Jimmy

[Sniper-T]

Being in a colder climate, I have a few other considerations to keep in mind.

Primarily, the ground is frozen solid for about 1/2 the year! About the only thing that I have found that makes sleeping on the ground comfortable is this setup:

A chunk of tarp which goes down first, to create a frost shield/moisture guard
an inch and a half sheet of sponge.
anther layer of tarp, to keep any moisture out of the sponge
A thin wool blanket
a cotton sheet (I find wool itchy)
and my -40 mummy bag.
If it is really cold/windy, I'll fold the other half of the tarp up and over the top.

I've used this set up in any weather from+10C to -40C. Often with nothing more than a tarp leanto.

I've heard people criticize mummy bags because they feel that they cannot get out quickly if they had to, and to this I have to disagree! Most times, My bag is unzipped to the waist (or only zipped up to the waist), and then just folded over. It is extremely easy to slip in/out, or just flip everything back and sit up with both arms clear.

One thing to note, is when you are cold weather camping (sleeping out), generally, it is a bad idea to keep your clothes on. Often your inner layers are wet/damp from doing whatever during the day, your outer layer may be as well (snow). so it is best to get these off before you crawl into bed. Most times I sleep in nothing but a comfy pair of shorts. I keep a pair of sweats and a sweatshirt handy to put on if I need to take care of business, but then take them off for sleeping.

If your clothes are just damp (sweat), you can put them laid out under the wool blanket, and by morning, they will be mostly dry. (dry enough to wear again comfortably). The wool blanket will absorb the water from them, and not affect your warmth level.

The next day (and this is important) you must break down your bed, to allow everything to dry properly. If you just leave it, it will be like climbing into an icecube tray the next night.
The nice thing about wool, is that it is really easy to get the moisture out of in the winter. Simply hang it up outside in the cold. The moisture will freeze, and given the open weave nature of wool, a good spanking with a switch will break out the ice crystals, which will then fall to the ground and leave you with a dry blanket.

If you/your clothes are really wet, then you will need a good fire to dry things. When your stuff is dry and you are getting ready for bed, bring your sleeping bag outside and hold it up by the fire. Watch for sparks, and not too close! 5 or ten minutes is usually enough to take the chill out, and get the inside toasty. lay it out on your bed, closed, and take care of your fire, then strip down and climb into a nice warm bag.

:)

[bacpacker]

Having done several winter bacpacking trips, i have to second Snipers comments about breaking down you bedding everyday. During sleep you put off an enormous amount of mositure just thru your beathing. Not to mention any on what ever clothing you wear to bed. That has to be dried daily.i also find the less you sleep in the more your body will warm up you bag. I have flound a thin pair of either silk or poly bottoms very comfortable and help keep the bag cleaner. Plus if you have to jump up and do something quick your good to go.

[4suchatimeasthis]

My dad has one of those old 40 below Army issue mummy sleeping bags, from when he was stationed in Alaska. Those things are amazing!

[Gunfixr]

Getting off the cold ground does wonders also.
You guys ever hear of a trappers bed?
Basically, it's a piece of canvas, a bit on the heavier side is better. It needs to be a bit longer then your body, and wide enough to lay flat on without worrying about falling off. Along each side it is folded over and sewn into a tube, like the tube along the top of a curtain for the rod to slide through, only larger.
Once you arrive on site, you cut or gather two limbs of sufficient size to hold your body weight, long enough to slide through the two sides of the canvas, plus about a foot or two. Two more larger logs, a foot or two longer than the canvas is wide, are placed on the ground at the head and foot or your "bed". The smaller logs, slid into the sides of the canvas, lay on top of the two larger pieces. This gives you essentially a canvas cot, suspended over the ground, to lay your sleeping bag, blanket, etc. on top of. The diameter of the ends pieces will determine exactly how far off the ground you are.
When you leave, remove the wood, fold up or roll the canvas and pack it, that's all you take with you.

[Sniper-T]

I found this in my Archives...

Home Sweet Home on the Range--Bedroll Basics, by D.K.

When assembling your post-apocalyptic, biker zombie, total collapse of civilization kit (or just getting started in camping) one item you should consider as part of your kit is a classic bedroll.

History
A classic bedroll, not the stuff of Hollywood or television, but the kit of real working men is both comfortable and multipurpose. They are not lightweight, small, or easy to backpack.

Please allow me to share the road I took to get to my current bedroll. I will try to describe the attributes of a good bedroll, suggest the minimum bits for a good durable bedroll, and provide some links to historical information on military use of bedrolls. Finally, there will be some links to sources of commercial bedrolls in case you wish to buy rather than roll your own.

I got my first bedroll when I started with the Scouts - the Troop I joined was led by combat Vets from both WWII and the Korea conflict - it really was a para-military uniformed youth training organization with a focus on 'real' military skills - just as Lt. Gen Robert Baden-Powell had first envisioned in 1907. That early experience and training from these Vets has stayed with me.

Anyway, the bedroll was an old tarp, as an adult I now see it likely started life as a WWII or Korean vintage Jeep trailer cover. This cover held a pair of Army-issue wool blankets - all given to me to 'get started'. The system worked to keep me warm at night, if not all too comfortable.

I used this setup until I started in serious backpacking. Short of funds, I upgraded to a new system using a surplus Case, Water-repellent, for Bag, Sleeping and a home made wool blanket liner. The liner was made out of the blankets on hand. Mom (gotta love 'em) helped me to cut and sew them into a modified mummy style reaching to my armpits. The blanket leftovers were made into a kind of cape. I re-waterproofed the poplin case by soaking it in raw linseed oil. It took the poplin fabric a while to dry completely in the AZ sun/heat, but when completely dry, was proven to be a waterproof and windproof cover.

When I landed a job as a staff member at the local Scout mountain camp, I purchased a 'real' (commercial) sleeping bag. By the end of the summer, the bag was completely shot - sleeping every night in the bag for just under 90 days destroyed it - lesson learned. I also had to carry a ground cover and tent when away from the main camp. Later, I worked for a Geoexploration company while in college. This job meant sleeping in the field for 4 or 5 days a week - with very limited space in the truck to carry personal gear.

That bedroll was made from my recycled Scout tarp, a pair of new surplus wool blankets and three commercial furniture pads obtained used from the local rental outfit. When warm, the pads were a comfy mattress, when cold, they helped the wool to keep me toasty. A second tarp was used in very rainy weather as a wedge tent to keep the water out of our faces.

In the military I used the issue bags, but I had my wife make another semi-mummy liner from a surplus wool blanket - on the really cold nights it made a difference. I spent one of the most miserable Fall nights in my life sleeping in Death Valley using a pair of issue poncho liners and a poncho. I think my wool 'liner' would have made a big difference, but the wool liner was left at home to save weight. Never again. I also added a shelter half to provide shade/wind protection in my 'go kit'.

This brings me to describing the attributes of a good bedroll:

First, the bedroll must be durable - as in brick outhouse durable. This means it must stand up to nightly use for weeks on end. It must suffer and survive abuse like rocky ground, rubbing against other kit, heat, drenching rain, (well below) freezing cold and dirt. It must be able to survive a soaking and be usable within a short period of time.

Second, your bedroll should be a stand-alone item for use. Your bedroll should not require an additional ground cloth or tent to be used. As I mentioned earlier, a second tarp is nice, but should not be required. If a second tarp is used, it may be lightweight as it will likely receive little abuse from day to day s use.

Third, the bedroll must be comfortable! If you are forced from your home/primary shelter, you will spend up to 1/3 of your life in this bedroll. That means you must be able to adjust to extremes in temperatures, ground conditions, humidity and rain. After busting hump for 12 hours, a bad night's sleep can make a tough job into one that is unbearable.
Your bedroll should be easy to enter and exit - especially for that late night nature call or zombie attack. The size you ultimately choose will depend on your style of sleeping. I can no longer stand the confines of a mummy style system for long periods, for example, so mine is large and roomy.

Fourth, the bedroll must be easy to maintain. Cleaning and maintenance of the bedroll components must be done without commercial washer/dryers or sewing machines - if you cannot take care of your bedroll in the field, you face some very bad nights indeed.

The bedroll should have room for some of your kit (small tool/sewing kit, extra socks, a clothing change and perhaps a hygiene kit) without compromising the waterproof nature of the bedroll. At the very least you should certainly keep a set of loosely fitting polypro long johns, a poly baklava and a set of heavy (wool, of course) socks to sleep in during colder weather. A pocket for a pillow is a nice touch.

The bedroll will not fit a stuff sack, so you must be able to roll it in such a manner as to allow the cover to keep rain, mud, dust and bugs out of the bedding. That also means good solid roll straps, at least three, that are large enough to hold the roll and stay put. You should consider a couple of additional straps to provide a means to attach the bedroll to your transportation - from a truck or a donkey to a hand cart.

The basics parts of a bedroll - you can add as you learn.
A sturdy bedroll is made of:
A cover or shell that is both waterproof and brick-outhouse durable. This is the make or break item on a bedroll.
Bedding, warm, durable and with the ability to accommodate changing weather. I have some pretty strong ideas of what works and that will be shared a bit later.
An insulator or mattress - both for comfort and to reduce loss of body heat into the ground. A means to hold this mattress is a real plus.
A storage system to accommodate those few additional sleep related items you do not want in your ruck or haversack.
Straps to hold the bedroll, well, rolled.

Lets see how these mandates have worked out in the current edition of my latest bedroll.

Cover:
Made of Number 1 canvas duck, it was cut, washed in very hot water to shrink the weave and reduce shrinkage while in use. Beginning with a large piece of canvas to reduce the number of seams, the material was cut into 3 pieces. Using a local tent maker, the cover had webbing (tape) sown into the 1.5 inch edge seams, double stitched with heavy, waxed, UV stable thread. An additional roll of thread was purchased for any future repairs that might be needed. Sown with industrial machines, each corner was bar stitched and industrial brass grommets were placed across the 'top' and down the 'open' side to almost waist level. All seams were sealed to stop water infiltration.

At the top, an additional piece, just under 4 feet in length, slightly more than the width of the 'bag' was attached at the time that seam was taped and edged. The third piece was sewn to this flap to make a pocket prior to attachment to the cover. This pocket has a slot (that may be laced shut) to allow access. The entire piece of fabric was waterproofed. This hood can serve as a mini-tent in bad weather.

A quick note here - how you waterproof the cover fabric matters. Check the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for any waterproofing material used. Some 'classic' methods may carry a health risk - for example, commercial "boiled linseed oil" may contain drying agents that pose a health hazard. All linseed oil is both flammable and material may heat and burn spontaneously if not dried completely. Commercial waterproofing products may not be compatible with your cover material. Read the label completely - ask questions is you are not sure. Always check the MSDS.

The actual size of your bedroll cover will be determined by how you sleep and the type of bedding / mattress chosen for your system.

Bedding:
If you have not figured it by now, I am quite partial to wool blankets as bedding. On the plus side - Wool is durable! In researching the web for some additional data for this piece, I found several WWI Army Quartermaster Corps issue blankets for sale - and some still used by re-enactors. Wool is naturally fire resistant; wool will offer insulation even when damp. Wool can absorb almost 20% of its weight in water before reaching total saturation-- that is defined as the point at which absorbed water begins leaking back out of the fabric - in other words, onto your skin.

On the minus side, wool is a natural product that loses some strength or can break down when overheated - hot water is okay, steam is not - so drying via a campfire is best done carefully. Wet wool also loses some strength - so, again, dry it carefully. Dry wool can become quite brittle - usually not a problem when used as bedding - just use care in storage to avoid too dry of conditions. Insects are also a consideration in storage.

I found that our local Army-Navy surplus store had some of the "Italian military" surplus blankets recently seen in various on-line outlets. Reasonably priced, they weight over 5 pounds each, a good sign of quality in a woven wool blanket. Initially compressed from long storage and reeking of insect repellant, after several washings they are now fit for duty. Three of these blankets and a wool liner from a national outdoor supplier and we have almost all that is needed for a comfy set of bedding. The liner, of Merino wool, allows me to keep the other blankets clean should I have to hit the rack while dirty. There are liners made of linen, polypro, and fleece that will likely work as well - I just happen to like wool.

The mattress
Right now I am back to an interlaced pair of furniture pads, as I have used before. This is a stopgap measure while looking for a suitable covered closed cell foam pad. Several commercial products are offered by different outfitters, some with a cover for the pad to resist moisture accumulation. My concerns lie with both the durability of any of these products as well as the finished width - all I have seen offered are relatively narrow - about 25 inches or so. The Pacific Outdoor Equipment Mega Mat looks - at 32 x 78 inches - like it might be a good pick, I am trying to find a local source for some hands-on time - at $150 or so, not an instant choice.

Wrapping it all up
Keeping things tidy are a set of straps I talked the parachute shop into sewing up for me some years back. Made from salvaged C-60 cargo parachute harnesses they are stout, to say the least. Any surplus store should have these kind of heavy duty strap sets - ensure you have the buckles that match the webbing. Too large and the strap will slip, too small and you cannot lace the webbing through the buckle. If you can find some Capewell release type buckles, you will be pretty close to bombproof strap sets. At least one pair of large/long straps will allow you to secure your bedroll to transport. My bedroll rides in the truck or on my home-made cargo cart.

How well does this work?
Well for me, just fine. I just finished a week-long gig at a remote camp here in Alaska and slept both cozy and warm, despite the cold and rainy nights. In this case, I did nave an unheated shelter - open to the wind - but was as toasty as can be. Getting out of bed in the morning was a bit of a challenge though.

Will this setup work in the dead of an Alaska winter? To be honest, I hope to never find out, but it goes in the rig when traveling out of town in case an avalanche or bad accident closes the road.

If you plan on only 'truck camping' you may wish to consider a reproduction M-1935 Bedroll with blankets - designed for use with an issue cot, these are well thought out military 'system' and should provide good service for temperate climates. Any good tent maker should be able to fabricate one from canvas goods on hand. The so-called Auzzie swag bags are another possibility to consider.

Random thoughts:
A maintenance kit should have a sewing awl, thread, good size chunk of beeswax in a tin and a half a toothbrush to apply the wax. A few large needles, heavy thread and a small set of scissors will help keep your blankets or clothing in good repair. Learn to use a 'blanket stitch" or "lock stitch"
A good way to keep the loose stuff in your bedroll less loosely is to cut up an old set of BDU or ACU pants. Cut the leg just below the cargo pocket and sew the cut end shut. Use this as stuff sack for socks, drawers, etc - using the drawstrings to close the sack. This sack will allow you to roll loose items with fewer lumps.
A pair or two of very heavy wool socks will keep your toes warm, and may be used to fashion a neck or ear warmer and in a pinch,,or as as hand warmers/mittens.

[Jimmy24]

I found this in my Archives...

Home Sweet Home on the Range--Bedroll Basics, by D.K.

When assembling your post-apocalyptic, biker zombie, total collapse of civilization kit (or just getting started in camping) one item you should consider as part of your kit is a classic bedroll.

History
A classic bedroll, not the stuff of Hollywood or television, but the kit of real working men is both comfortable and multipurpose. They are not lightweight, small, or easy to backpack.

Please allow me to share the road I took to get to my current bedroll. I will try to describe the attributes of a good bedroll, suggest the minimum bits for a good durable bedroll, and provide some links to historical information on military use of bedrolls. Finally, there will be some links to sources of commercial bedrolls in case you wish to buy rather than roll your own.

I got my first bedroll when I started with the Scouts - the Troop I joined was led by combat Vets from both WWII and the Korea conflict - it really was a para-military uniformed youth training organization with a focus on 'real' military skills - just as Lt. Gen Robert Baden-Powell had first envisioned in 1907. That early experience and training from these Vets has stayed with me.

Anyway, the bedroll was an old tarp, as an adult I now see it likely started life as a WWII or Korean vintage Jeep trailer cover. This cover held a pair of Army-issue wool blankets - all given to me to 'get started'. The system worked to keep me warm at night, if not all too comfortable.

I used this setup until I started in serious backpacking. Short of funds, I upgraded to a new system using a surplus Case, Water-repellent, for Bag, Sleeping and a home made wool blanket liner. The liner was made out of the blankets on hand. Mom (gotta love 'em) helped me to cut and sew them into a modified mummy style reaching to my armpits. The blanket leftovers were made into a kind of cape. I re-waterproofed the poplin case by soaking it in raw linseed oil. It took the poplin fabric a while to dry completely in the AZ sun/heat, but when completely dry, was proven to be a waterproof and windproof cover.

When I landed a job as a staff member at the local Scout mountain camp, I purchased a 'real' (commercial) sleeping bag. By the end of the summer, the bag was completely shot - sleeping every night in the bag for just under 90 days destroyed it - lesson learned. I also had to carry a ground cover and tent when away from the main camp. Later, I worked for a Geoexploration company while in college. This job meant sleeping in the field for 4 or 5 days a week - with very limited space in the truck to carry personal gear.

That bedroll was made from my recycled Scout tarp, a pair of new surplus wool blankets and three commercial furniture pads obtained used from the local rental outfit. When warm, the pads were a comfy mattress, when cold, they helped the wool to keep me toasty. A second tarp was used in very rainy weather as a wedge tent to keep the water out of our faces.

In the military I used the issue bags, but I had my wife make another semi-mummy liner from a surplus wool blanket - on the really cold nights it made a difference. I spent one of the most miserable Fall nights in my life sleeping in Death Valley using a pair of issue poncho liners and a poncho. I think my wool 'liner' would have made a big difference, but the wool liner was left at home to save weight. Never again. I also added a shelter half to provide shade/wind protection in my 'go kit'.

This brings me to describing the attributes of a good bedroll:

First, the bedroll must be durable - as in brick outhouse durable. This means it must stand up to nightly use for weeks on end. It must suffer and survive abuse like rocky ground, rubbing against other kit, heat, drenching rain, (well below) freezing cold and dirt. It must be able to survive a soaking and be usable within a short period of time.

Second, your bedroll should be a stand-alone item for use. Your bedroll should not require an additional ground cloth or tent to be used. As I mentioned earlier, a second tarp is nice, but should not be required. If a second tarp is used, it may be lightweight as it will likely receive little abuse from day to day s use.

Third, the bedroll must be comfortable! If you are forced from your home/primary shelter, you will spend up to 1/3 of your life in this bedroll. That means you must be able to adjust to extremes in temperatures, ground conditions, humidity and rain. After busting hump for 12 hours, a bad night's sleep can make a tough job into one that is unbearable.
Your bedroll should be easy to enter and exit - especially for that late night nature call or zombie attack. The size you ultimately choose will depend on your style of sleeping. I can no longer stand the confines of a mummy style system for long periods, for example, so mine is large and roomy.

Fourth, the bedroll must be easy to maintain. Cleaning and maintenance of the bedroll components must be done without commercial washer/dryers or sewing machines - if you cannot take care of your bedroll in the field, you face some very bad nights indeed.

The bedroll should have room for some of your kit (small tool/sewing kit, extra socks, a clothing change and perhaps a hygiene kit) without compromising the waterproof nature of the bedroll. At the very least you should certainly keep a set of loosely fitting polypro long johns, a poly baklava and a set of heavy (wool, of course) socks to sleep in during colder weather. A pocket for a pillow is a nice touch.

The bedroll will not fit a stuff sack, so you must be able to roll it in such a manner as to allow the cover to keep rain, mud, dust and bugs out of the bedding. That also means good solid roll straps, at least three, that are large enough to hold the roll and stay put. You should consider a couple of additional straps to provide a means to attach the bedroll to your transportation - from a truck or a donkey to a hand cart.

The basics parts of a bedroll - you can add as you learn.
A sturdy bedroll is made of:
A cover or shell that is both waterproof and brick-outhouse durable. This is the make or break item on a bedroll.
Bedding, warm, durable and with the ability to accommodate changing weather. I have some pretty strong ideas of what works and that will be shared a bit later.
An insulator or mattress - both for comfort and to reduce loss of body heat into the ground. A means to hold this mattress is a real plus.
A storage system to accommodate those few additional sleep related items you do not want in your ruck or haversack.
Straps to hold the bedroll, well, rolled.

Lets see how these mandates have worked out in the current edition of my latest bedroll.

Cover:
Made of Number 1 canvas duck, it was cut, washed in very hot water to shrink the weave and reduce shrinkage while in use. Beginning with a large piece of canvas to reduce the number of seams, the material was cut into 3 pieces. Using a local tent maker, the cover had webbing (tape) sown into the 1.5 inch edge seams, double stitched with heavy, waxed, UV stable thread. An additional roll of thread was purchased for any future repairs that might be needed. Sown with industrial machines, each corner was bar stitched and industrial brass grommets were placed across the 'top' and down the 'open' side to almost waist level. All seams were sealed to stop water infiltration.

At the top, an additional piece, just under 4 feet in length, slightly more than the width of the 'bag' was attached at the time that seam was taped and edged. The third piece was sewn to this flap to make a pocket prior to attachment to the cover. This pocket has a slot (that may be laced shut) to allow access. The entire piece of fabric was waterproofed. This hood can serve as a mini-tent in bad weather.

A quick note here - how you waterproof the cover fabric matters. Check the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for any waterproofing material used. Some 'classic' methods may carry a health risk - for example, commercial "boiled linseed oil" may contain drying agents that pose a health hazard. All linseed oil is both flammable and material may heat and burn spontaneously if not dried completely. Commercial waterproofing products may not be compatible with your cover material. Read the label completely - ask questions is you are not sure. Always check the MSDS.

The actual size of your bedroll cover will be determined by how you sleep and the type of bedding / mattress chosen for your system.

Bedding:
If you have not figured it by now, I am quite partial to wool blankets as bedding. On the plus side - Wool is durable! In researching the web for some additional data for this piece, I found several WWI Army Quartermaster Corps issue blankets for sale - and some still used by re-enactors. Wool is naturally fire resistant; wool will offer insulation even when damp. Wool can absorb almost 20% of its weight in water before reaching total saturation-- that is defined as the point at which absorbed water begins leaking back out of the fabric - in other words, onto your skin.

On the minus side, wool is a natural product that loses some strength or can break down when overheated - hot water is okay, steam is not - so drying via a campfire is best done carefully. Wet wool also loses some strength - so, again, dry it carefully. Dry wool can become quite brittle - usually not a problem when used as bedding - just use care in storage to avoid too dry of conditions. Insects are also a consideration in storage.

I found that our local Army-Navy surplus store had some of the "Italian military" surplus blankets recently seen in various on-line outlets. Reasonably priced, they weight over 5 pounds each, a good sign of quality in a woven wool blanket. Initially compressed from long storage and reeking of insect repellant, after several washings they are now fit for duty. Three of these blankets and a wool liner from a national outdoor supplier and we have almost all that is needed for a comfy set of bedding. The liner, of Merino wool, allows me to keep the other blankets clean should I have to hit the rack while dirty. There are liners made of linen, polypro, and fleece that will likely work as well - I just happen to like wool.

The mattress
Right now I am back to an interlaced pair of furniture pads, as I have used before. This is a stopgap measure while looking for a suitable covered closed cell foam pad. Several commercial products are offered by different outfitters, some with a cover for the pad to resist moisture accumulation. My concerns lie with both the durability of any of these products as well as the finished width - all I have seen offered are relatively narrow - about 25 inches or so. The Pacific Outdoor Equipment Mega Mat looks - at 32 x 78 inches - like it might be a good pick, I am trying to find a local source for some hands-on time - at $150 or so, not an instant choice.

Wrapping it all up
Keeping things tidy are a set of straps I talked the parachute shop into sewing up for me some years back. Made from salvaged C-60 cargo parachute harnesses they are stout, to say the least. Any surplus store should have these kind of heavy duty strap sets - ensure you have the buckles that match the webbing. Too large and the strap will slip, too small and you cannot lace the webbing through the buckle. If you can find some Capewell release type buckles, you will be pretty close to bombproof strap sets. At least one pair of large/long straps will allow you to secure your bedroll to transport. My bedroll rides in the truck or on my home-made cargo cart.

How well does this work?
Well for me, just fine. I just finished a week-long gig at a remote camp here in Alaska and slept both cozy and warm, despite the cold and rainy nights. In this case, I did nave an unheated shelter - open to the wind - but was as toasty as can be. Getting out of bed in the morning was a bit of a challenge though.

Will this setup work in the dead of an Alaska winter? To be honest, I hope to never find out, but it goes in the rig when traveling out of town in case an avalanche or bad accident closes the road.

If you plan on only 'truck camping' you may wish to consider a reproduction M-1935 Bedroll with blankets - designed for use with an issue cot, these are well thought out military 'system' and should provide good service for temperate climates. Any good tent maker should be able to fabricate one from canvas goods on hand. The so-called Auzzie swag bags are another possibility to consider.

Random thoughts:
A maintenance kit should have a sewing awl, thread, good size chunk of beeswax in a tin and a half a toothbrush to apply the wax. A few large needles, heavy thread and a small set of scissors will help keep your blankets or clothing in good repair. Learn to use a 'blanket stitch" or "lock stitch"
A good way to keep the loose stuff in your bedroll less loosely is to cut up an old set of BDU or ACU pants. Cut the leg just below the cargo pocket and sew the cut end shut. Use this as stuff sack for socks, drawers, etc - using the drawstrings to close the sack. This sack will allow you to roll loose items with fewer lumps.
A pair or two of very heavy wool socks will keep your toes warm, and may be used to fashion a neck or ear warmer and in a pinch,,or as as hand warmers/mittens.

Hmmmm....sounds just about like mine. Thanks for that, loved the story and ideas for sure. I only use 10oz canvas to save a bit of weight and stiffness. The sewing awl and good thread I purchased at Harbor Freight. I keep Snow Seal with the awl and heavy, straight and curved needles with outdoor poly thread. Those were purchased at Hancock fabrics.

My experince with sleeping bags was kinda the same. As a teenager I worked with a tree planting outfit and we stayed for weeks out planting gov land. Went through several bags. They have their place for sure, just not with me.

Jimmy

[apssbc]

Ive done some cold weather camping. I had a -40 gi sleep system in my ruck and it served its purpose and was useable in a variety of climates. During this outing it was about 15 degrees with 30mph winds gusting to 55, the ground was already frozen. I used, and still use to this day a camo tarp for my shelter, which I set up in a way that it was large enough to serve as my first layer of ground cover as well as my shelter. Then I placed my poncho on the ground as a second moisture barrier. Next I placed an emergency blanket and on top of that my sleep system. I used my ruck to act as a wind break and create somewhat of a door. I was able to change into a set of sleeping long johns and sleep comfortaby through the night. I had enough space for my fighting kit, rifle, boots and warm clothes.

Another tip that works in cold dry weather, you can place your cold damp clothes on top of the emergency blanket and below the sleeping bag. This acts as a additional layer between you and the ground, and also when you wake up in the morning your clothes will be dried out.

[mitunnelrat]

Cool! That's the very article that got me thinking, T. Thanks for posting it.

[Evolver]

This is something that I use to keep off the ground and love, It a Thermarest self inflating foam pad. It packs down to a small roll and weights under 2 lbs. You can ether let is self inflate or you can introduce more air if needed by blowing into the air valve. I have the 3/4 size so it's just under your torso but for cold weather you would want the full size.
It looks like they offer more styles, shapes and sizes now but here's a link to what I'm talking about.

http://cascadedesigns.com/therm-a-rest

[bacpacker]

After reading that post, it makes me reconsider my normal bedding for a longer trip. For my GHB though I still want to stay lite, but the longer heavier trips, espically on a long road trip out of state in the winter. Something like this would be really nice if your vehicle broke down or you got caught out for some reason. I'll have to do some investigating into materials.

[Evolver]

For years I used a closed cell neoprene pad, It works well... but it's bulky.

[realist]

Bacpacker I agree with you that I want something lite when I am on the move. However the bedroll is absolutely the way to go when car camping. I have used the Thermarest pads but the problem with them is they can get holes and deflate. I prefer them with my backpacking equipment. I have used the egg crate foam that worked well and has lots of air space. My brother-in-law used this type of system hunting in the Ruby Mountains, it got do cold the liquid soap froze. I am going to put together several bedrolls for the rest of the family. You folks have given me some great ideas, excellent post, thanks.

[Jimmy24]

The stuff bg I spoke of is just tht. I stuff it full of pine neddles/leaves. I can stuff it enough to give me a good 2 inches of loft when I'm sleeping on it. Yep, I keep it sprayed to keep the no-see-ums at bay.

Jimmy