Flashlights

[Gunfixr]

I went back about a year and a half, looking for flashlight threads, but didn't see any. I'm sure there has been one or more at some point.
Anyway, I'm sure many here have some fairly "high performance" flashlights. There are many types, and many levels of cost. In the last few years, the LED has "come of age" so to speak, and flashlights have been changing rapidly. Now, the switches have really "come of age" as well, and where the high performance flashlight was only a blinding light that lasted a couple hours is now a multi-setting light than can land planes of a couple hours, or help you see your way about for a week.

To get more to the point, in an effort several years ago to get more than a few good performing flashlights without spending a huge amount of cash (I'm a gear whore), I had purchased several lights made by Coleman company. These offered pretty good light (from 80 to 150 lumens) with good run times and were fairly inexpensive, about $15 to $25 each, depending on the specific model. Instead of using CR123s, which may not be quite as common post-shtf, they use AAA batteries. Three of them are mounted into a cartridge, which then goes into the light body.

Theoretically, this was just as durable as any other light, using any other battery system.

Now, 2-3 yrs later, I see this is not the case. For one, the batteries just don't seem to store. I have multiple packages of AAA, AA, and CR123, as well as CR2032s in storage, all stored together, with the AAA and AA both being the same brand. The AAAs are rotting away, with corrosion showing up in several packages. None of the other sizes are doing this. Maybe it is related to the small size, I don't know. I did find lithium AAAs, but of course, these are more expensive. All of the corroded packages have from 1 to 3 yrs left of storage time, as printed on the package.
Secondly, the lights aren't holding up. The cartridges that hold the 3 batteries a all cracking, as they are 3 pieces held together with small screws. Mostly, they seem to break around the screw holes in the end pieces. Also, some of the batteries have corroded, eroding the contacts. These are the batteries from the above mentioned packages, still plenty inside their "expiration" date. The lights have not seen particularly hard use. One has been carried a lot, and seen good use, but the others are simply laying in drawers, waiting to be needed.

Therefore, now I will be getting away from these AAA lights that use cartridges. Getting lithium batteries will end the corrosion issue, or should, but the lights themselves just don't hold up.


Just thought the colony might want the heads up.

[helomech]

Those are the reasons I like my streamlight flashlights. They are tough, and my favorite on uses rechargeable batteries. It has a 9 hour run time on low. Also don't get to focused on those lumen numbers. There is no standard and they can put pretty much what they want on them. The beam has more to do with the lens and the reflector more so than the lumens.

[ak474u]

Those are the reasons I like my streamlight flashlights. They are tough, and my favorite on uses rechargeable batteries. It has a 9 hour run time on low. Also don't get to focused on those lumen numbers. There is no standard and they can put pretty much what they want on them. The beam has more to do with the lens and the reflector more so than the lumens.

My buddy who invented the light I carry says there are 2 kinds of lumens... American and Chinese.

[helomech]

http://www.maglite.com/flashlight_performance.asp





Q: Do all sellers and advertisers of flashlights follow the FL1 standard?
A: No. Compliance with the FL1 Standard is voluntary. There’s no legal requirement that flashlight packaging, labeling and advertising follow the Standard. So not everybody who makes, packages, advertises and sells flashlights chooses to follow the FL1 Standard.

[ElevenBravo]

Thanks for the heads up on the AA and AAA batts...


BTW, Ive got one of these:

http://www.gandermountain.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=Gander-Mountain-Submersible-Aluminum-Flashlight-560-Lumen&i=733611

The 550 lm model, I dont know if the lm count is accurate, but its the brightest damn flashlight Ive ever owned! I got it on sale for like $60.

EB

[ak474u]

I've had bad luck with AAAs too. They're the only ones that seem to rot prematurely. I have some Costco lights I bought 3 for $20 a few years back they're a solid 150-175 lumens, and have 3 modes. They take the AAA cartridge, which seems durable enough, but... I've had to clean corrosion out of 2 of them so far. They hang on nails behind doors in the house, and I was a bit surprised the last time I grabbed one and it didn't work because I'll throw out low batteries in the interest of higher output when I need light, and I don't let things go dead. If its low, I let my 4 year old run it dead and replace ASAP.

[Gunfixr]

I know that lumens and candlepower aren't the perfect way to describe flashlights. I use it as a relative term for brightness.

Mainly, I wanted to share my experience with what happened with storing AAA batteries, and the AAA cartridges that the lights used.

I'm going to try to find some more "general use" lights that use AAs, and maybe keep the CR123 batteries to the "high performance" lights, as I think having to use different sizes of batteries will give me more types to scavenge post-shtf.

But, I'm kind of looking into the possibility of using rechargables, and having a portable solar charger for them. That way, you could carry a few sets of batteries, charging as necessary, instead of loads of batteries that you eventually run out of. Extras stored at base are waiting for when you finally run the ones you are using out of cycles.

[Fidel MD]

This is an interesting problem - one that I haven't run into, myself. With the incredible decrease in price for LED flashlights, I have been buying them - 100 lumen lights in a three pack at Lowes are a pretty good deal at $10, and the quality, while not up to Streamlight or Surefire or Pelican or even Maglight, are certainly better than most cheap flashlights a couple of years ago.

So, I've been buying a lot of cheap ones, to go with the expensive ones and just set them aside. Some of them may not work when needed, some will, I hope, so overall I think it's good.

Of course, I don't store batteries in flashlights that aren't going to be used for awhile - I keep the batteries in the freezer.

[bacpacker]

I bought some 10 for $10 lights at tractor supply a couple years ago to hang out in the shop, chicken coop, basement, etc. So far they are still working. Even on their original batteries. I am sure that is most likely a fluke but I cant bitch.
i got a bunch of triple a batteries several years ago. Some duracell some Sams brand. So far no issues with leakage. I keep them in our spare bedroom so it has a constant temp. Hopefully my luck continues.

[LUNCHBOX]

I am a Surefire junkie....with that said l wont tell anyone that my flashlight is better or worse. I will say this....go somewhere thats dark (out of town dark) and turn on any flashlight. I dont care if its a AA, AAA, C, D, 123 or the little nickel looking ones...it will light up the night just fine.

I have extra batteries (thats what we do) but l dont keep to many for the reasons listed above. I would recommend keeping a couple lights that run on AA and AAA just for availability reasons but l wouldn't give up my Surefires until l have to.

[Stormfeather]

Just like Lunchbox, Im a Surefire Gear Whore. I swear by them because I know that they work when I need them too, and I only have to buy one type of battery. I bought a case (144) cr123's and they power up all of the flashlights that I have in the BOB's & GHB's & BOV's. Myself, while some people want different size flashlights, I use one type, and go with commonality, this way I can even interchange parts if I need to. One thing of note, if you want a brighter/higher lumen light, I would suggest getting CREE LED bulbs, I have a bunch of them that I bought to interchange with my surefires. This way, I have incandesent and LED, in various light wattages. Plus some CREE bulbs are actually multi-function. hi beam, low beam, strobe, ect ect. I spend the money on them, and they arent cheap, but they are a durable piece of gear thats worth it.

[Gunfixr]

Well, I bought the cheaper lights for around the house general use. They mostly sit on shelves and in drawers all over the house, waiting to be needed. The EDC I have, and the one I gave to my wife for EDC aren't cheap. Neither is the one by the bed at night.
Once again, buy cheap, get cheap.
Doesn't seem to matter where I try to save a few bucks, I always get screwed in the end.

[LUNCHBOX]

Just like Lunchbox, Im a Surefire Gear Whore. I swear by them because I know that they work when I need them too, and I only have to buy one type of battery. I bought a case (144) cr123's and they power up all of the flashlights that I have in the BOB's & GHB's & BOV's. Myself, while some people want different size flashlights, I use one type, and go with commonality, this way I can even interchange parts if I need to. One thing of note, if you want a brighter/higher lumen light, I would suggest getting CREE LED bulbs, I have a bunch of them that I bought to interchange with my surefires. This way, I have incandesent and LED, in various light wattages. Plus some CREE bulbs are actually multi-function. hi beam, low beam, strobe, ect ect. I spend the money on them, and they arent cheap, but they are a durable piece of gear thats worth it.

I can second the Cree bulbs. I use them also in my 6Ps'

[Gunfixr]

I usually do look for the Cree bulbs.
Funny, I put the Cree bulb Surefire sells for the 6P in mine, and I was kind of disappointed. If it weren't for the runtime, I'd put the original bulb back in.

[ak474u]

I usually do look for the Cree bulbs.
Funny, I put the Cree bulb Surefire sells for the 6P in mine, and I was kind of disappointed. If it weren't for the runtime, I'd put the original bulb back in.

It's the reflector. The parabola in the original incandescent sure fires was a little different, AND the CREE LED doesnt sit as high into the parabola as the incandescent did. When we swapped out from the Luxeon K2 diode in our light, it was WAY brighter, but because the Diode was about 1/2 the height above the circuit board than the K2 was, the reflector design was inadequate even though it was a much brighter light (250 lumens) up from right at 200. The main issue was a hollow spot in the middle of the hotspot.

[Gunfixr]

I think it came with a reflector. They all do. Surefire says they do that so they can set the bulb at the right place to get the beam they want, and the owner doesn't have to worry about tolerances messing with the beam when they replace burned out bulbs. I took out the one part made by Surefire, and put in the other part made by them.

[bourneshooter]

FWIW:

I run Surefires on guns, nothing else gets mounted on them for white light useage. I run anything from X300 Ultra, P2X Fury, to a M600 Scout. Adding in anything with NOD's will also add the need for an IR illuminator, plenty of options there and a different subject.

Handhelds:
Surefires are always GTG, but the couple year old Protac line from Streamlight has impressed me. If I wanted a $50 EDC light, I would be very tempted to get one. Currently I EDC a 4 year old E1B from Surefire and change the battery about every 3-6 months. I use a Surefire R1 Lawman for work and charge it about every 3 grave yard shifts.

Headlamps:
Black Diamond, Princeton Tec. Unless you need a metal framed body, then the Surefire line will help.

Helmet lights:
Princeton Tec is where its at.

Battery wise, I keep AA, AAA and Surefire CR123's on hand. En Masse. I wish I could get some good headlamps in AA instead of AAA then I wouldn't need to stock as many AAA.

[bacpacker]

Check out the Petzel headlamps. I have used them for years. I have one thats nearing 30 yo. I also have a couple of newer models that live in my GHBs. I have yet to have a failure and they make several models depending on your needs.

[Gunfixr]

I EDC'd a 6P for many years, but now, with the hi/lo features, I wanted a more "universal" light. I just recently purchased a couple of the Streamlight Polytac lights. It is pushbutton on the end, with the capability to be programmed for three different modes. There is high/strobe/low, high only, or low/high. In high/strobe/low, if you just push the button, you get high (rated 275 lumens for 3hrs, a 195m beam, 9,500cd). If you push it partway, and fully in the second time, you get strobe (275 lumens for 5.5hrs). If you push it partway twice and in the third time, you get low (14 lumens for 65hrs, a 45m beam, 500cd). The light is rated for a 1m drop, and waterproof to 3m. Says ratings are ANSI/NEMA FL1-2009 Standard. Also meets requirements of NFPA 1971-8.6 (2007). Polymer body, has a clip, C4 LED, uses 2 CR123s. Paid $36 each.
Time will tell, but I like them so far. I have had a Streamlight TLR-1 weaponlight for some time, and like it a lot. I know Surefire is good, but Streamlight has proven good enough for me at substantial savings, which means more lights and batteries. I do also have a Streamlight Sidewinder, the military model that has IR. It uses AAs.
I have considered the same, all CR123s for lights, and skip the BS. I may get another Sidewinder or so, and another or two of these Polytacs, and call it good. I like lights in the vehicles, on my person, and scattered about the house. But, really, small maglights can lay about the house. I want good lights for carry, and good lights in the vehicles, and a good light at bedside. The only ones that really need super brightness, IMHO, are the carry, vehicles, and bedside. The house lights are just for when the power goes out, to get around until the lanterns get lit.
Headlamps are Petzl. I do also wish they were AA, I'd not need AAA.

[bourneshooter]

I have switched all to LED lighting and sold off my G2/6P's to Surefire collectors covering the upgrade costs of G2X or P2X Fury's.

For a EDC (CCW/Off Duty) light, I prefer to run a single cell dual output light. If I'm in a higher threat area, I'll have a G2X singe stage light with Raven pocket clip instead of the normal E1B.

I would like to have AA headlamps so I can be AA/CR123 only for my battery needs. Surefires, NOD's, PEQ's, etc all force me to be a dual battery stocker.

[bourneshooter]

I recently finished setting up my WML's on my rifle:

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g33/Mattlevi/Lights/1656282_10152172418734254_438488234_n.jpg (http://s52.photobucket.com/user/Mattlevi/media/Lights/1656282_10152172418734254_438488234_n.jpg.html)

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g33/Mattlevi/Lights/1655955_10152172418554254_381132939_n.jpg (http://s52.photobucket.com/user/Mattlevi/media/Lights/1655955_10152172418554254_381132939_n.jpg.html)

[ak474u]

I recently finished setting up my WML's on my rifle:

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g33/Mattlevi/Lights/1656282_10152172418734254_438488234_n.jpg (http://s52.photobucket.com/user/Mattlevi/media/Lights/1656282_10152172418734254_438488234_n.jpg.html)

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g33/Mattlevi/Lights/1655955_10152172418554254_381132939_n.jpg (http://s52.photobucket.com/user/Mattlevi/media/Lights/1655955_10152172418554254_381132939_n.jpg.html)

Those would be more "operator" if you used sponge bob square pants duct tape to secure them on the rails.