Potable Solar powered refrigerator and solar powered ice making

[Domeguy]

Solar powered ice makers, it sounds too good to be true. But I've been looking into newer, smaller ice makers that use less power to run, and while it will be costly, I think it's now time for me to try it. I tried using a peltier device to keep a small cooler cold for emergencies, (like insulin and beer) but shelved that idea for now because I want to be able to cool a lot more than what its properties would allow. If you don't know what a peltier device is, don't feel bad, most people don't, look it up on YouTube as I think they are worth knowing about. But I'm leaning towards a portable battery bank with 2-100Ah batteries to share the load, that can be recharged by solar panels or AC from the grid, with a charge controller. But for power output, I want to be able to use AC for things like lights or a small refrigerator or freezer, and DC to power things like cell phones, tablets, and DC lights as they use such low power. But I didn't want to keep it locked in my garage tied into my home AC system. I wanted to be able to take it where I wanted to. I had been drawing schematics for a few yrs off and on, but when I found out Pintrest wasn't just about foofy pillows for couches, I also found others had been making these solar generators for a while, but still small scale. Goal Zero has a 1250W battery and solar charger pack out, but they want $2500-4000. And still only one battery. I have almost everything I need to construct this beast. Mainly, the big cost is still the 2 batteries, which will run between $400-700, depending on what kind of a deal I can get. But after all of this mumboo jumboo of words here, has anyone else here bought or made one, and is anyone else interested in how I make (or blow up) one?

[ElevenBravo]

The Pelt device is inefficient, did you check that out by chance? They consume a lot of power for not much cold, and to get them cold enough too cool a volume space will be a LOT of power.

However with the efficiency of the newer conventional fridges, and the efficiency of current inverters... it *may* be more better to look at that route.

Lastly, a propane/12vdc/120vac fridge such as is found in an arrr veee may be best suited, on LPG a 20lb tank should like a good long while.

Let google be your friend.

EB

[Domeguy]

Yes, I new what the peltier device was and how it worked quite well. But solar power to charge a battery is free in the long run, so the inefficiency compared to other options didn't matter. It was just going to be too small. And you may be right about propane, but it must be replaced at who knows how much in the future? I know what a panel costs now, and I know what a battery costs now. Things do wear out and need to be replaced no matter what, but I know the sun should still be free for a few more years. Plus trying to take a 20 gal. tank of propane into a large event may just raise a few red flags, where as you can just open the case to show its just battery's. This is why I want to keep it safe, portable, and powerful.

[ElevenBravo]

I knew, that you knew, what Pelt devices were, that was never in question... I wanted to play devil's advocate on the options.

Your update makes a lot of sense! In the LONG RUN, it would be a better choice. Now, keep us updated on your progress!!

EB

[Sniper-T]

Dude... seriously??? Zeer Pot!

google it!!

[realist]

I have been thinking about you the solar generator for my ranch up north, I would like something portable. Years ago before the main house burned up we had a trash burner on the propane stove for heat, a propane refrigerator w/freezer. We even had propane lights too. Propane is great when it comes to refrigeration, I ran the numbers and I figure the propane refrigerator would use about 200 gallons a year if run full-time.

Now solar it free once you put out the money for the initial infrastructure. Now Domeguy you said you purchased two batteries, why only two, weight? How many and what size panels? What type of inverter?

I want a system I can take put up and down when I visit the ranch. If I left it would I am sure one of the dope growers in the area would steal it. I have a small trailer I was thinking about installing it in so I set it up easy. I could easily put four or more batteries in it to increase the storage. I wasn't sure how many panels I would have to have but if I could have some way to fold them out I figure it would be quick set up. What do you think?

[Sniper-T]

Oh... and we all use propane fridges in our remote cabins. they're awesome!

[ElevenBravo]

Dome correct me if Im wrong, but Im thinking he wants something with zero reliance where as propane will need to be replenished once ran out.

The down side of batteries... they will eventually need to be replaced too.

EB

[Domeguy]

Not necessarily zero tolerance, but that would be the perfect goal. From time to time, I like to go camping with as little as possible, to be able to enjoy nature, pure and simple. But on the other hand, I'm a 55 yr old man with some medical problems who wouldn't mind a good 5 star resort with all its creature comforts. I am trying to find a fine balance. This year I am attending the Bonnaroo music festival in Manchester, TN. It's about an hr. drive. Last year was my first time ever doing anything like this, as its WAY outside my comfort zone. I had a miserable time in the heat for 5 days, didn't fully attend any of the bands, and didn't participate at all. This year I want to do things differently. I will be taking my 2500W generator and portable AC again. But the generator was somewhat loud, and to keep my food cold cost me $15-20 in ice per day. This year since I'm volunteering again, it's free again, but this yr, I have to be there from Sunday-Sunday, so ice will cost $110-140. I could by a new ice machine for that price if only I could power it. No electricity in the middle of the field, and running the generator 24hrs a day isn't an option either. So, this would be the perfect time to build what I have been wanting to build for years, a solar powered system that powers more than a phone and a light, and would be portable. I could use it at the house also to power the freezer in the garage, and extra backup for when the power is off. I made a lot of friends last year as we all sat around my AC, and want to do the same this year. Right now, this system is still in the planning stage. I have some components already, but I have NOT purchased the batteries yet, as I have to get permission from the missus to purchase the batteries. Right now I am planning two due to keeping it portable, (I was thinking of using something I already have that is like a 2 wheel dolly) but may switch to a pneumatic wheeled wagon with 3-4 batteries, but then the cost goes up. I have a 400w inverter, but will go larger, and depending what is on sale when I buy the panels, 400-600w, maybe more. This will power an ice making machine, and still be portable. At a time in the future, I will have a drastic increase in funds and plan on building a 3000-4000w system on a trailer and donate it to the local sheriff department, but that kind of system, although portable, would be too big for what I plan for now. Realist, while I was at the Solar Institute in Florida, they had one of these trailers parked out in front of the school. I think this is what you are looking for.

[Domeguy]

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/DC8A415F-8B4A-4D11-878C-147FE67340E3_zpskdnw60k7.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/DC8A415F-8B4A-4D11-878C-147FE67340E3_zpskdnw60k7.jpg.html)

[realist]

Hey Domeguy can you break down the components for me on that? You are right it is similar to what I am looking for. I want a trailer I can have the panels on top and store equipment underneath and still have it secure. This would require a solid sided trailer. Below is something similar to what I envision. A trailer like this would allow me to securely store my equipment and have the deck raised containing the panels.

https://trailerplans01.wordpress.com/2014/11/12/off-road-trailer/

[Domeguy]

This trailer
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/3DC22B02-FD0B-4472-AAA6-44D81414E5CB_zpsxlia7no7.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/3DC22B02-FD0B-4472-AAA6-44D81414E5CB_zpsxlia7no7.jpg.html)

Has these batteries inside


http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/B5998662-2CE6-4506-9612-70F0499D355D_zps9uumjrbq.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/B5998662-2CE6-4506-9612-70F0499D355D_zps9uumjrbq.jpg.html)

And these components, inverter, charge controller, cut off switches, ect

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/1E0DC7F2-1CBF-4D0A-AF09-2F17BA5B2A89_zps6s9sy5rt.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/1E0DC7F2-1CBF-4D0A-AF09-2F17BA5B2A89_zps6s9sy5rt.jpg.html)

And this is the schematic for it.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/CC9D69C5-9B67-49ED-BD52-123052DF872A_zpsddrjo6ri.gif (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/CC9D69C5-9B67-49ED-BD52-123052DF872A_zpsddrjo6ri.gif.html)

As you can see, it also has a generator in it also. This can be varied to suit your needs.

[realist]

Thank your sir. What type of batteries are those? Why do you have the two set of four batteries separated? It set up so when the power drops below a certain point the generator kicks in? I have seen all types and I know deep cycle RV batteries work, but I was looking at the larger type like you have there. Do you have a guesstimate as to the cost of a set up like this minus the trailer? Lastly is the generater gas or propane? Thank you

[jamesneuen]

If I'm not mistaken the batteries are each 6 volts and running them in that configuration makes it a dual 24 volt setup.

[Domeguy]

Realist, please forgive me if I have implied I built this trailer, as I did not. I have not built one yet, but do plan on doing so in the future. I looked up system on a trailer that showed what was used and where they mounted everything, along with the schematics like what you were looking for. As far as the set up in this particular trailer, I'm guessing they were wanting a higher voltage output, and I believe James answer beat me to the punch. And for the generator, I don't know, but a propane powered would work just as well as a gasoline power one. I was just trying to show how a larger solar system does not have to be tied to a home only. You can still pack quite a punch into a smaller portable package.
And after looking around today, I have decided to go with a wagon style platform rather than a 2 wheeled dolly platform. It won't be as top heavy, and it would give more room for the batteries. I also have decided on going with a 1000W pure sine wave inverter.

[realist]

Not a problem. It is just one more project which I would like to do. I do appreciate the information.

[bacpacker]

James is right. Everything is wired at the batteries for 24volts. Panels are wired for 48volts, then split off to 24v at the controller for storage at the batteries.
As shown, the generator does not kick in at a certain voltage. It would need a relay and auto start system. Although that may be there. Schematic also doesn't show any monitoring unless it's built in the systems.
Really nice set up and would run a good deal of stuff in a off the grid situation. Downside, it would take up a lot of space storing batteries and panels that may be needed for other transport storage. Thanks for putting that up DG. I do like it and think it would be great to use as a emergency communcations support vehicle.

[realist]

Bacpacker we had a similar setup at a remote site at my work. It operated off just two solar panels and I believe there were around a dozen batteries. There was also a propane powered generator which would kick on when the voltage dropped to a certain level.

Guys why do they use 24 volts over 12 volt?

[bacpacker]

My bet would be less current draw with the higher voltage. A lot of systems are 48v that I have looked at. Power or watts equals voltage times current.

[jamesneuen]

I'm honestly not sure why but it seems that most professional or heavy use systems are 24 volts. No idea why except perhaps the volts vs amps for wire size. 12 volts at 1400 amps theoretically gives the same power as 24 volts at 750 but you can use a smaller diameter wire on the latter vs the former.

I actually just picked up a book on solar electricity from a second hand store down here so I'm still trying to muddle through it. I try to find my answers to questions in the book but sometimes I have to take their word or do some online searching.

Till now I have only done simple house wiring under close supervision. However the guy I worked with did some contracting work in europe and apparently they run a much higher voltage at lower amps so they get the same power but can use thinner wire for everything. He said that the cost to wire a house was almost half of what it is over here because of less copper used.

[bacpacker]

Perfect explanation. Less current requires smaller wire. Simple as that. Larger wire has lower resistance, which is needed for high current draws.

[ElevenBravo]

It all makes perfect sense!

At some point Id like to have a 12 volt system with solar charging, set up to monitor mains.. when that drops an inverter will kick in and provide 110ac to a few LED lights.

Btw, LED lights are much better than CFL, though I want to measure and chart.

If the bank is big enough and I have a big enough inverter, I could run the fridge too, but that would be for short term until I get the genny running... 10 hours at most I figure.

EB

[jamesneuen]

If you ran your lights off of a different panel than your main appliances you wouldn't need an inverter for the LED's. Almost anything that doesn't have a spinning motor is run off of DC rather than AC. From what I have read though, DC will generate MUCH more loss through the wires than running AC does but unless you are transferring it to a second building, the losses should be minimal. Even if you do, using a 24 volt system at the bank and then stepping it down with resistors should make up for it and also create less of a loss than the 12 volt system would over distance.

I'm absolutely devouring this book I picked up. It goes way more in depth than I thought I was ready for but I can make the links in my head with minimal searching online. This book is supposed to be an electricians reference to solar power I assume because it makes the assumption that you have a base knowledge of how "normal" power works. The only basis I have off our normal power system is because of the research I did on Tesla vs. Edison and the original "power wars". (pun intended)

[bacpacker]

What book did you get James? I may have missed the title in a previous posting.

[jamesneuen]

Solar electricity handbook 2013

[realist]

I just ordered the 2015 book on Amazon.

My plan is to build a small cabin up north on our property, about 20x24. The lighting will all be LEDs so the draw will be low, then have a propane refrigerator and stove. This should be a good start. Since all my power tools are pretty much battery operated building should not be a problem. I have a generator which I can use to run the larger tools. So we will see what happens, I'm only a year behind getting things started. I meet with my brother-in-law next month to go over my rough plans. The nice thing is we did a remodel on the house so I have cabinets left over to go in the cabin.

[Domeguy]

I had a large sale on eBay last week, so I started buying materials for the solar powered portable power station. I bought 2- 12 volt 100Ah batteries, 1- 1000w inverter, (1500w peak power) 1- 20A charge controller, and various switches and gauges. I still need to purchase the solar panels, but I might be able to borrow some for the week I need them. I will start assembly next week when the equipment arrives, and keep you posted on what I short out or blow up.

[ElevenBravo]

thread keeps getting better!!

[Kesephist]

Chief, for the 24 volt setup, where in circuit do the stepdown resistors go? At the battery? at the point of use? Midcircuit someplace?

[jamesneuen]

Stepdown resistors should go as close to point of use as possible so as to obtain proper voltage and amperage. You won't know the amount or size of the resistors until you see what your loss is from the DC over distance.

ie.
You have a solar panel bank set up on your garage roof because it gets better sunlight. So you keep the battery bank there as well. If you want to run an inverter you would go straight from the batteries to the inverter and then do a line to your house with no resistors because there is almost no loss in AC. If you want DC only then you run from the batteries to an automatic regulator at the house because of the loss from running the distance in DC plus the variance in the voltage of the batteries would change the amount of resistance you need. So you can't use a static resistance system and you would have to make the voltage far greater because of the drastic loss. (am I making sense?)

[Domeguy]

Roger that.

[jamesneuen]

I feel so empowered learning this stuff and having it make sense so well that I can explain it. Feels like progress even if I'm just reading.

[Kesephist]

Domeguy:"I had a large sale on eBay last week, so I started buying materials for the solar powered portable power station. I bought 2- 12 volt 100Ah batteries, 1- 1000w inverter, (1500w peak power) 1- 20A charge controller, and various switches and gauges. I still need to purchase the solar panels, but I might be able to borrow some for the week I need them. I will start assembly next week when the equipment arrives, and keep you posted on what I short out or blow up."

A parts list would be appreciated, irrelevant of outcome.

[Domeguy]

Yesterday, the batteries were delivered to the porch, and I found in the mail box the charge controller, the main power switch, and the information panel. Today, the inverter should arrive. I went to lowes and bought the wiring. I choice 10 gauge as it needed to be thick enough to handle the DC voltage, but small enough to fit into the small hook-up areas like the charge controller. I'm still deciding on what to use or build for the "container". Right now I'm thinking of using 3/4 in. plywood to make a 2 level, 16 inch no cube with a hinged lid and using a hand truck to move it around. The 2 batteries in the bottom level with a wooden separation and the charge controller, inverter, outlets, switches and the fuses. I will take plenty of pictures and keep a cost list.

[bacpacker]

Lookin forward to it.

[Domeguy]

I have been waiting for the inverter to arrive before I started making the box. I checked the UPS site, and they said it was delivered yesterday. So I went down the driveway to ask the neighbors if they had it, and guess where I found it. Tied up in a clear plastic trashbag sitting on the side of my driveway in the weeds. My thoughts of UPS are for another time, so I brought it up and started cutting plywood. I decided I wanted to be able to unhook and unload the batteries easily, so I made a door in the bottom of the box and I will slide the batteries in longways, leaving air circulation room around them. I will put in 1 inch square pieces of lumber on the 2 long sides and the back, and just put a small piece on the door side so I can lift the battery over it to slide the battery out. I made the box out of 3/4 inch plywood, and has an interior space on the bottom of 16" W X 15" D X 10.5" H.
The upper portion of the box has a removable floating floor, supported by strips on the below wall. It's space is 16" W X 15" D X 4.5" H. In the top will go the inverter, charge controller, switches, meters, ect. It took me about 4 hrs. to make the box. The next step is to plan out the wiring, and I drew a basic schematic diagram last night.http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-05/B1488FEF-348C-492D-80C7-A31BEEED11EC_zpslq3gfffq.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-05/B1488FEF-348C-492D-80C7-A31BEEED11EC_zpslq3gfffq.jpg.html)
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-05/1324F724-20C4-4455-9BCF-BB70D6B352C1_zpstyjmgupe.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-05/1324F724-20C4-4455-9BCF-BB70D6B352C1_zpstyjmgupe.jpg.html)
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-05/658D4385-4ED7-4AEE-9170-9459A70A12D5_zpssmobti9f.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-05/658D4385-4ED7-4AEE-9170-9459A70A12D5_zpssmobti9f.jpg.html)

[Domeguy]

Costs so far
ITEM.............................................. ..........................COST.................... ..................TOTAL
2- UB121000 12V 100Ah batteries..............................$169.99 each............................$339.98
1- Inverter 1000W (peak 1500W) pure sine wave..........$140.00............................. ......$140.00
1- Charge Controller 12V 20A.....................................$14.03.... ..........…......................$14.03
.................................................. .................................................. ...............TOTAL. $494.01

[Kesephist]

Might suggest fans in the right places, if the power allows

[Domeguy]

Yes, thanks Mr. K, I forgot to mention the 2 fans I already had. I will cut ventilation holes behind the inverter for the 2 fans at its rear, and then see where the most heat is being generated and put a fan at that location. The same with the fuses, I keep moving things around to find the best location, and then I will wire in the fuse in a place where it fits the best.


http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-05/DFE3CB63-0C91-4671-B2DC-BA7302BE9B00_zps48mhgjyx.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-05/DFE3CB63-0C91-4671-B2DC-BA7302BE9B00_zps48mhgjyx.jpg.html)

[jamesneuen]

So, are you going to wire a trip switch into the system so that it will kick on only when the main power is down? A lot of places require it so their workers are protected.

[bacpacker]

Looking good DG. Thanks for the price list. What brand inverter and CC did you go with?

[Domeguy]

So, are you going to wire a trip switch into the system so that it will kick on only when the main power is down? A lot of places require it so their workers are protected.

No, because it's a stand alone power system at the monent. I will be using it to power the portable ice machine for a week. At the end of the week, I will try to power more things on it to see how much it can handle. I could find out the old fashioned scientific, mathematical way, but what fun would that be. I'd rather try to over load the system and see what fuses fail.

[Domeguy]

Looking good DG. Thanks for the price list. What brand inverter and CC did you go with?

I got them both off of eBay. They are both a basic, no name Chinese made copies of who knows what. I chose this inverter because it seemed to be constructed better than most, and they included a digital display readout on it.http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-05/0C292BE5-EE1A-4BF4-BFB4-7FB99443FC37_zpsxuzpafob.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-05/0C292BE5-EE1A-4BF4-BFB4-7FB99443FC37_zpsxuzpafob.jpg.html)
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-05/2053F077-9BEB-40B7-88DF-1EEC5B531602_zpshvi3uj4t.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-05/2053F077-9BEB-40B7-88DF-1EEC5B531602_zpshvi3uj4t.jpg.html)

[Domeguy]

There are some items I purchased that anyone else building something like this might not need. I built the box from a 4 X 8 sheet of 3/4 plywood because I wanted it to be able to take a lot of abuse. I put angle brackets (both large and small) all around the box for extra support and glued every corner. I put on 4 henges and 2 lockable latches, as I wanted easy access into the batteries and the other components. I also wanted to make sure no one could get into it but me, as well as trying to keep it from being stolen. All locked up it should weigh about 150 lbs. the DC power box on the outside I bought for $20 at a garage sale. Since I already had it, I didn't need to buy the cigarette lighter power outlets or the DC power poles, plus it already had a shut off switch and fuses installed. The 2 outlets were made and wired in that way just for looks. I could have just cut a hole in the box and put the inverter sticking out of the end, but I didn't like that look. I will install 2 heavy duty handles on the sides. So you would not need any of the materials I used listed in this posting. I have seen others built in a cooler, metal boxes, briefcases, ect. And this is the only one I've seen to use 2 batteries, all others have only had 1, or other smaller batteries wired together. So they were able to use smaller containers.

[Domeguy]

I started wiring up the box today. I decided to install the inverter at an angle, to give it more room for air flow around it. I wired the inverter to the batteries on the bottom, and ran wires to the positive and negative buss barshttp://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-05/5B08CC0D-9453-4A5F-B77B-4B260431A1A6_zps34sghwra.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-05/5B08CC0D-9453-4A5F-B77B-4B260431A1A6_zps34sghwra.jpg.html)
And then I wired the charge controller to the DC power station, the batteries, and the yet to be installed solar panels.http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-05/24F59E4F-1693-4892-80B0-7989F9989722_zpstlj2fsky.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-05/24F59E4F-1693-4892-80B0-7989F9989722_zpstlj2fsky.jpg.html)
I also mounted the DC power station on the outside.http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-05/34EFDE8A-FC2F-4D30-8D8D-DB8E940CA095_zpsxf4m5yac.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-05/34EFDE8A-FC2F-4D30-8D8D-DB8E940CA095_zpsxf4m5yac.jpg.html)

- - - Updated - - -

I took of the front cover of the inverter to see if I could unplug it from the inside components and mount it on the outside to make it look better, but all of the connections were soldered. So I installed 2 seperate AC plugs on the outside, and I will wire each one to each plug on the inverter.

[Domeguy]

Well hello boys and girls. It would seem I will have to make a slight adjustment to my parts list. After reading my posting saying I was using a generic Chineese made charge controller, which basically protects everything in the system from a full nuclear meltdown, I thought do I really want to trust a $14 part from China made by a person making .32 an hour. Plus trying to find a solar panel putting out 12V is fairly pricy, the panels putting out 24V are much cheaper. So I meet with my financial adviser, and I told myself to make the change. So I ordered from SolarWorld.com the following. 1- Solarland SLc-MPPT-2024-20A charge controller for $112.02. This controller is far superior to the generic one, offering better protection, and will step the voltage down from 24V to 12V, which will work for my 12V battery bank. And I purchased 1- SolarWorld SW-235 24v MONO panel, which is a discontinued model. But because of that fact, I paid $210 for a mono crystalline solar panel. That's a pretty good deal. They are throwing in a 25' connection cable. So, now I believe I have everything ordered, and I am still waiting for a few things to arrive in the mail.http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-05/062044CC-8043-4441-8033-C7C542EF0505_zpsnuk0xaqf.png (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-05/062044CC-8043-4441-8033-C7C542EF0505_zpsnuk0xaqf.png.html)http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-05/C227636D-A880-46CE-A502-9EEE61A171DD_zpsss6wdv2y.png (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-05/C227636D-A880-46CE-A502-9EEE61A171DD_zpsss6wdv2y.png.html)

[Domeguy]

I hooked up and tested the inverter, ...and nothing happened. I called the company I had bought it from, and they had me test it over the phone, and guess what...nothing happened. I sent the old one back and they are sending a new one, and I upgraded to a 2000 watt while I was on the phone, so I'm waiting for it to arrive before I can finish.

[Domeguy]

Well, I'm still waiting on parts to get here, and it's coming down to the wire. I am wanting this system to be ready by June 5, and some of the parts won't get here until June 3. But here is a price list as of yet...

1- 235 mono crystalline solar panel ....................$210
2- 12V 100Ah batteries......................................$33 4
1- 2000W inverter.......................................... ...$250
1- 20A MPPT charge controller.............................$112
1- 25' solar panel connecting cable........................$42
1- in line battery voltage meter.............................$12
Various fuses, wires, switches, plywood, ect...........$50
.................................................. ...........................
TOTAL............................................. ...............$1010
While this is a chunk of change, remember this system will be able to power almost anything in the home, except for your main
HVAC UNIT. If the power goes out, I could power the freezer, refrigerator, several lights, and maybe some more. After it is all built and tested, once I bring it home, I will do extensive testing. An it all fits inside a box 18"x18"X18" and one solar panel. But right now, it's main use is to just make me some ice cubes.

[Domeguy]

This is the new 2000W inverter I have coming in.
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-05/153E2C4F-E14B-44B7-AA9D-A2B7E732620D_zpstuvtsz4c.png (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-05/153E2C4F-E14B-44B7-AA9D-A2B7E732620D_zpstuvtsz4c.png.html)

[Domeguy]

While I was in Tullahoma today at the laundromat dealing with my rabbit infused blankets, I got a call that my solar panel was in
Lynchburg, about 20 minutes away. So I left the blankets, and drove to get my panel. And to make a short story longer, but just as boring, I brought everything home tonight. Tomorrow I will test the panel output and wire up the new and improved charge controller, and wire a few more things in so when the new inverter comes in, everything will be ready. I am going to make my own panel frame out of wood to protect the panel, and to be able to give it a tilt to better get the suns rays. I will take pictures, and give a detailed boring report.

[ElevenBravo]

keep the updates coming

[Domeguy]

I got back home late last night. I spent 8 days camped out in open fields, and had to move the entire campsite after 2 days to move to the handicap accessible campsite for the remainder of the time. The entire setup worked just fine, and I will make minor changes to the design in the future. The main problem was in trying to keep the main power box small enough to be portable, I didn't leave enough room to allow for a hand to fit in the bottom section to hook up the battery cables. I will take more pictures in the coming days as I deconstruct it to explain how I built it and why I did what I did. Many people saw it and liked the idea, and I even got one person to ask me to build them one.

[Sniper-T]

sounds like a 'win' a few tweaks, and it will be a 'win-win'

looking forward to the details.

Welcome back!

[ElevenBravo]

8 days on solar?? Id reckon the batteries should have been exhausted after 2 days! Id say the beta test was a success!!

Looking forward to updates!

EB

[Domeguy]

To make it simple, I will take pictures and show the wiring, and why I wired it the way I did, with each individual item I put in it. I have already shown pictures of the box. It was just a simple box made from 3/4 plywood, approximately 18" X 18" X 18". I chose that size so it would be easy to handle, while still giving me room for all of the components with some wiggle around room for the wiring. The main components were the batteries, 2 X 12V 100Ah, the charge controller, the power inverter, a fan, a DC power outage point, a AC power outage point, a power usage, power provided meter, solar power input point, and the solar panel with its conecting cables. Solar cables are unlike regular wiring due to its outer covering to keep it weather, chemical, ect. resistant, and due to its conductivity properties in the wiring used. I'm not sure what they use, but you don't really need to worry about its size (within reason, a basic solar home setup will use standard size solar wiring the same size as what comes out of the panel for the entire run.) The components used to go in the box are a 12/24V MPPT charge controller. This means it can be used with 12V or 24V solar panels, and used some pretty smart electronics to moniter how much power is coming in from the panels, and how much power is being drawn from the batteries, and sends just the right amount to the batteries to keep them at their best optimal charge. A 2000W pure sine wave power inverter. This just has electronic components that uses unicorn horn dust and strong black magic to turn DC current into AC current. It will power anything that uses up to 2000 cumulative watts, i.e. It would power 20 100W light bulbs, but would shud down if you then tried to add the 21st light bulb. I could have used a modified sine wave inverter, which would have cost less. But some power sensitive electronic equipment like some computers need pure sine wave power, whereas some regular things like an electric drill, could get by with modified sine wave power. Some battery chargers like the kinds that charge cell phones, SOME will only work with pure sine wave, so that is why I chose a pure wave inverter. If anyone has questions, I can go into that later. I used a 12v fan I got from eBay, the external AC plug is just a regular Standard home AC plug. I just ran a plug from the inverter, and straight wired the other end of the wire into the plug just for looks. I could have just as easily ran an extension cord, or what ever I chose to power, in through a hole in the box, or mounted the inverter so the inverter plugs would be accessible through the box. I used the DC power outage unit just due to everything already being in the plastic casing I already had. I bought this at a garage sale, but I could have also ordered and wired in several DC cigarette lighter plugs, and the same with the DC poles as well. I chose to mount a standard AC light switch on the outside to be able to make sure I was able to shut everything off,(even though the DC outage box has its own shut off switch, the main switch also shuts off the DC power, no matter what position the DC switch is in.) I chose to use the power lugs (I can't think of their proper name at this moment) for all of the Positive and Negative connections just to keep it neater, and to keep all of the wire connections away from the battery terminals due to the chance of a a loose connection. The solar panel is a full sized panel, feeding up to 235W in full sunlight with optimal conditions. I bought along with the panel a 50' solar cable with a male connection on one end and a female connection on the other. I cut the cable about 15' from each end, leaving me with about 20' to use for assorted wiring needs, and used red and black wires, 10 and 12 gauge, where needed, and standard 12 gauge 3 wire for any AC wiring, (really just needed for the short plug from the inverter to the AC plug.) So from here, if you have any questions, write in and I'll try to answer them. So on with the pictures.

[Domeguy]

THE BOX. It's built with 2 sections, the batteries on the bottom, and the electrical components in the top. I put a door on for the batteries due to them being too heavy to be kept in in while moving, and easy access in case on a problem. I put them on the bottom because they were heavy. I kept the floor for the components loose with lip edge pieces holding it for support so I could remove it if I needed to for wiring issues. I drilled holes in the corners for the main wires to come up from the batteries to connect to the passitive and the negative buss bars (that's what they are called.) I wired the 2 batteries in parallel to give me 1 large 12V battery with 200Ah. That's positive to positive, and negative to negative, with an additional wire connected at each post running to the respective buss bar. But I'm getting ahead of my self. I also but a door on the box so I could also put on a latch and lock. This serves two purposes. It keeps it safer, as no one can tamper with it, and also keeps it safer from behind stolen, as with the batteries locked inside, it weighs about 150lbs. I also put a henges door on the top to be able to get to the components inside, the fan switch, ect. I also put on a latch for locking safety. I put 3 vent holes, one where the fan went, and 2 for the inverter, and most larger inverters have at least one, usually two fans at their rear pulling in air to keep them cooled. I put on some screening mostly to keep out young fingers. That covers the outside of the box.
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/9A4BAADA-4E04-4A92-8A3C-2E209499CF69_zpsf3os5i9z.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/9A4BAADA-4E04-4A92-8A3C-2E209499CF69_zpsf3os5i9z.jpg.html)
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/10C1A46C-E202-407B-AC7A-3C188C7F0FDD_zps9r5t42ej.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/10C1A46C-E202-407B-AC7A-3C188C7F0FDD_zps9r5t42ej.jpg.html)
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/765E05B0-88F3-4789-B35E-B3AF971FF157_zps7xt4ldzf.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/765E05B0-88F3-4789-B35E-B3AF971FF157_zps7xt4ldzf.jpg.html)
Next will be the inside.

[Domeguy]

INSIDE, BEHIND THE CURTAIN WHERE ALL THE BLACK MAGIC HAPPENS
So, why did I put things where I did. I planned on when I wired up my batteries, the main leads would come up through the floor on opposite corners. When I put my batteries side by side, this looked like the best way to do it. When I talk about directions, it will always be with the battery door to the front, with the DC power station outside on the right. So I had my main positive wire coming up through the floor on the left front, and main negative wire coming up through the right rear. That is were the posts were under the floor. But looking back, this made the battery hookup to first wire it up after moving it very hard to do. I could wire them up outside the box and then slide them in, but this made it very hard to push the negative wire up through in the back. This could be fixed in two ways. Either make more hasn't room between the tops of the batteries, or turn one of the batteries around, so one battery has the positive post in the left front, and one battery has the negative post in the near right front. Then wire them outside the box, slide them in, and both cables go through the floor in the front where there is plenty of room...but I did it the hard way and learned, so this is why the positive and negative buss bars are where they are...because it's where the main cables came to. Then I just wired items to them, not the batteries. I placed the rest of the components where the are due to making sure when the inverter was in the box, it could have plenty of good air flow around it. So I put in the inverter and started placing items and moving them around to find the best or sometimes the shortest wiring route to the buss bars. I placed the charge controller on the wall on the right, as it mounted flush in an upright position, and since it had 6 wires to hook up, it gave me access to do so. I cut the hill in the bottom, as I had first planned to use a smaller charge controller, and with the new controller, the wires connected on the bottom. I didn't want to put to much of a stress to the wires rift at the connection, so with the hole, it lets them make a more gentle curve on the way out to their connections. With the inverter in the middle at an angle, I cut a vent hole on each side near the corner to give good airflow, and I them decided to mount the fan on the front wall blowing out, using the vent holes on the opposite side for the inverter as inflow ducts for the fan also. So I decided to put the DC power pack on the right outside, the main switch on the right outside, the AC plug on the front outside, an with the solar panel incoming wires to the left side of the charge controller, I placed the cable connections coming in on the front left of the box. Since the fan had such small screw holes, I just decided to use hot glue, and glue it to the wooden siding, along with its power switch, and glued some of its wires out of the way at the same time. The fan was wired using smaller wire I already had, due to it having small gauge wire already attached to its motor. I just connected the pos. wire to the positive buss, and the neg. to the neg. buss, and wired in a switch into one of the wires, as it would run continuously if I did not install a switch, since it was direct wired through the batteries. It was the only thing that would not be shut off by the main switch. The charge controller is the brains of the outfit. It has 3 connections, each with a pos. and a neg. The solar infeed, the battery outfeed, and the load outfeed. So, the pos. and the neg. solar incoming wires come in on its bottom left, the battery outfeed in the middle, pos. and neg run to the pos. and neg. bus bars, and the load on the bottom right neg. and pos. run to the DC power station neg. and pos. incoming wires. The solar infeed wires were cut from a 3 to 1 plug I already had, having 3 male ends and 1 female end. I cut off the female and one of the male wires to use to wire to the charge controller, so I could disconnect the cables on the outside, and not have to unwire then from the charge controller each time I needed to transport it and unhook everything. So, now the pictures.
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/0308FDE3-31ED-4595-A728-A2AB2F8A8F06_zpsggtd4ogj.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/0308FDE3-31ED-4595-A728-A2AB2F8A8F06_zpsggtd4ogj.jpg.html)
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/31E2FDE9-283A-476A-8FCF-6752EF525B91_zpskbf7hskx.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/31E2FDE9-283A-476A-8FCF-6752EF525B91_zpskbf7hskx.jpg.html)
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/596F703D-AC42-437E-99D6-D1800F111DF2_zpscyhvdil7.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/596F703D-AC42-437E-99D6-D1800F111DF2_zpscyhvdil7.jpg.html)http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/596F703D-AC42-437E-99D6-D1800F111DF2_zpscyhvdil7.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/596F703D-AC42-437E-99D6-D1800F111DF2_zpscyhvdil7.jpg.html)
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/B481A5BC-2379-4B13-A621-6474E14A7C88_zps0qjbrqwr.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/B481A5BC-2379-4B13-A621-6474E14A7C88_zps0qjbrqwr.jpg.html)

***********CORECTION***********. On the earlier post, I wrote the main power switch would shut of the DC power station. That was incorrect. The way I had it wired, the main switch would only shut of the inverter, or the AC power, which I will go into later. It would still leave on the DC power, which is just the power from the batteries, which could be shut off at the DC power station by it's power switch.

[ElevenBravo]

wow!!

[Domeguy]

So I will talk about the inverter and how I chose to wire it into the system. As I said earlier, the inverter just changes DC current into AC current. It is a self contained unit that can easily be bought almost anywhere now. You can even plug one into your cars cigarette lighter, or hard wire it ito the cars system, so you can brew your cup of Starbucks coffee in your own Mr. Coffee brewing machine that can be picked up at the thrift store, saving you thousands of dollars every year. I have even seen newer cars that have a 110v AC plug already wired into them, but again I am getting off track. So with a store bought inverter and a large enough battery, you can have AC power anywhere. The inverter clearly stated in its instruction manual "the inverter must be wired straight to the battery." I did some reading and couldn't find out why. 99/100 times I would agree wiring it that way would be best, but I wanted to do things differently, and here is why. I wanted to use my buss bars, and I wanted to use a cut off switch in the inverter cable to be able to shut off all AC power from the outside of the box. Yes, the inverter does have its own shut off switch, but it would be inside the box. So with power running to the neg. and pos. buss bars, any connection through them completes the circuit and energizes the unit. So I screwed the inverter to the floor using the mounting holes. This inverter could be mounted in any direction with its surface. It could be flat, on the wall, upside down, ect. and would still work. I ran a 10 gauge wire from the rear neg. post to the neg. buss, and installed the switch on the outside. The power cable goes from the pos. Post on the rear of the inverter, through the switch, than from the switch to the pos. buss bar. This way, I can turn on the inverter with its own power switch, close and lock the lid, and be able to turn the inverter on and off from the outside. And I just mounted a regular nome wall outlet on the outside, and wired a plug to it. Then I just plugged it into the inverter, thereby just moving the power to the outside of the box, so I could lock the box. I won't wire the inverter for the picture because you can't see the wires, so I will show the inverter clearly so you can clearly see how and where the wires would go. ***NOTICE*** I just took the pictures, and noticed just as I am getting ready to post them they are off my 1000w inverter. I have 4 different inverters, a 300w, 1000w, 2000w, and a 3000w. While are are different in how much power they can invert, the all would wire up the same way, positive to positive, negative to negative. Sorry for any inconvenience that may cause, but I promise it's the same.http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/D97ED618-C9A8-4362-A645-FB56BCCDC2EF_zpsfwao5r4e.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/D97ED618-C9A8-4362-A645-FB56BCCDC2EF_zpsfwao5r4e.jpg.html)
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/BF11A77E-85A1-4366-A783-A96FF2C2881E_zpsoevct0bo.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/BF11A77E-85A1-4366-A783-A96FF2C2881E_zpsoevct0bo.jpg.html)
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/99C036BF-937B-4121-AECB-CC5BF4163934_zpsloxojrco.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/99C036BF-937B-4121-AECB-CC5BF4163934_zpsloxojrco.jpg.html)
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/07360872-DC07-4730-9439-4C20303ADD93_zpsutf8pdly.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/07360872-DC07-4730-9439-4C20303ADD93_zpsutf8pdly.jpg.html)

The last picture shows the 1000w inverter direct wired to 1 on the 12v batteries with the inverter turned on and powering a standard box fan. I think inverter is showing it has 11.9V coming in, and is currently putting out 122w powering the fan.

[ElevenBravo]

damn I like that inverter, it talks to ya!!

[bacpacker]

Good work DG. It looks nice and certainly works as planned.

[Domeguy]

So, what's left...I guess it would be the solar panel and the solar cable wires. Nearly all new panels now being made will have their own set of wires coming out of the underside of the panels. There will be a positive cable and a negative cable, usually coming from a box, sealed fron the elements. One of the cables will have a male fitting, and the other will have a female fitting. If you were wiring a series of panels together, you could wire one into the next one, and it into the next one, ect. Or you could wire them into a combiner box, and make many cables go in, and come out with just a pair, 1 negative and 1 positive. By as I am just using one high wattage panel, I just wired it straight to the charge controller. But I also needed it to be able to be easily unplugged for portability. I also wanted to make it idiot proof, because if I plugged the negative cable into the positive going into the charge controller, well, let's just say it wouldn't be good. The panels outgoing positive cable had a male connection, the negative had a female connection, so I wired the charge controller cables coming out of the box so the positive wire/cable also had a male connection, and the negative wire/cable had a negative connection. This way, even if someone tried to plug the panel straight into the box, the fittings wouldn't fit. And if you remember I earlier cut about 15' off the cable off each end of the 50' cable. I wired a male to the male ending cable, and a female to the other one with the female fitting. This way, the one with the double female fittings can only plug up to the male from the solar panel, and to the male fitting coming from the box connected to the charge controller, and the same for the other cable, but only in reverse. Now, they have been working on the solar cables/wires for years, trying to come up with a standard plug...they are now in its 4th generation on the solar connection. It cannot be unconnected once you plug male/female together without a special tool that I snaps the tabs in the fitting. So here is a picture of it, and the cable male female ends.http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/3EB4203F-47F5-46CE-B817-6401EED24D87_zpsi4y6x4k7.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/3EB4203F-47F5-46CE-B817-6401EED24D87_zpsi4y6x4k7.jpg.html)
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/2A77F25B-21E2-471C-B16B-9872715E817E_zpsqaqowldr.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/2A77F25B-21E2-471C-B16B-9872715E817E_zpsqaqowldr.jpg.html)
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/A410792C-F252-4865-9C80-E4E98D1F0A40_zps0m46crlv.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/A410792C-F252-4865-9C80-E4E98D1F0A40_zps0m46crlv.jpg.html)

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/B21D5681-D5DF-4019-BA10-8739ECFB3B0E_zpslxgeg2rq.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/B21D5681-D5DF-4019-BA10-8739ECFB3B0E_zpslxgeg2rq.jpg.html)
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/gantsum/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/08330E53-8107-4DA4-98F8-B2369D0C9C2F_zps0dmezsmf.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/gantsum/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/08330E53-8107-4DA4-98F8-B2369D0C9C2F_zps0dmezsmf.jpg.html)

Notice how the male fittings has rubber O ring gaskets on it. This keeps all the connections water tight.

[Domeguy]

Like I said, this was solar generator 1.0. Did it work, yes it did. Would I change things, yes I would. I would make the box a bit larger, mainly to give the inverter a bit more wiggle room and to give more room for a hand to fit on the bottom. I Mwould make it weather resistant, and do something to keep it portable. I just left to on the bed of the truck due to its weight, and if there was the threat of rain, I covered it with a tarp. I meant to install handles, but forgot. More batteries could be added, but would need to be outside, then wired into the batteries on the inside. The solar panel was large and heavy to move, but I wanted and needed the extra power punch that a small solar panel just wouldn't provide. One way to increase the size of this for more power, while still keeping it portable, might be to put 6-8 batteries in a wooden cradle in the bed of the pickup truck to keep them from sliding around. Then connect them to the power box, and have a total of 2-3 full sized solar panels, wired together and laying down flat across the bed of the truck. They wouldn't get the best direct sunlight, but they would get a lot. And they could be made to raise up some to face the sun if needed, bit I'm thinking of keeping it simple. So this would give me 12 volts with 600-800Ah with about 700 watts of incoming solar energy to keep it all charged. But then you are talking about a system that would be big enough where a trailer starts to make sense. I like electricity, and want to be able to take it with me. I guess in just getting old enough where I want to have my cake and be able to eat it too!

[FLPrepper]

I have been thinking about you the solar generator for my ranch up north, I would like something portable. Years ago before the main house burned up we had a trash burner on the propane stove for heat, a propane refrigerator w/freezer. We even had propane lights too. Propane is great when it comes to refrigeration, I ran the numbers and I figure the propane refrigerator would use about 200 gallons a year if run full-time.

Now solar it free once you put out the money for the initial infrastructure. Now Domeguy you said you purchased two batteries, why only two, weight? How many and what size panels? What type of inverter?

I want a system I can take put up and down when I visit the ranch. If I left it would I am sure one of the dope growers in the area would steal it. I have a small trailer I was thinking about installing it in so I set it up easy. I could easily put four or more batteries in it to increase the storage. I wasn't sure how many panels I would have to have but if I could have some way to fold them out I figure it would be quick set up. What do you think?

Look into the Goal Zero Yeti 1250 kit. Fully portable.

https://completeprepperstore.com/store/goal-zero-yeti-1250-solar-generator-kit/

[realist]

I see this as too small for my needs

[Domeguy]

Realist, There is no reason, with a small bit of research first, you could not make something like I did to suit your needs. If you needed any help, all you would need to do is just send me a message.