Chainsaw Primer

[chicom]

One of the tools that can best see you through calamity is the chainsaw.

No matter if you live in the countryside or the burbs, whether the situation is epic failure or localized in nature, one of the most important tools in your collection is a chainsaw.

It will allow you to provide the most basic rudimentary necessities of light, heat, and basis of cooking.

I know that such can be acquired through the use of manual implements, but the chainsaw will accomplish such needs far outpacing manual implements by economy and quantity.

Even though the possibility of replenishing expendables needed to maintain and operate the chainsaw are low, the initial yield performed by such an implement far outpaces the the work of five individuals using manual implements. Better to use the chainsaw with resources available, than to start off cold with manual tools.

A chainsaw not only provides the means to provide quantity in heating and cooking resources, it also allows for the facilitation of transportation in the time of localized or permanent disaster. It allows for the continuation of egress, in the times of natural or man-made obstacles, to swiftly facilitate extraction from a potential danger zone. A single tree can cause life threatening delay in route of travel regardless of cause.

A chainsaw is also EMP proof. It will work when everything else fails. There will be plenty of time to use manual tools once fuel and lubricants are exhausted. The chainsaw will provide the base in which you can build from, circumstances providing.

[chicom]

A chainsaw is an automated device that replaces the labor of many person's manual labor and allows the solitary individual to accomplish the same tasks, ultimately with the same level, or better efficiency.

Such a device allowed me to harvest trees for heating purpose in the time of three weeks during the summer months for the purpose of heating a cabin continuously over an extended period from late September to early June. Production only occurred during a narrow window from 7AM to 12PM. The rest of the day was devoted to other endeavors, and recreation. The total end product was approximately 20-25 cords of wood. It is still unnecessary to seek more resources to compliment existing stocks.

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/chicom70/S6300762.jpg

Imagine in an environment that prevents a person from furthering such gleaning of resources, whether it be the inclement weather, the possibility of temporary civil strife, or the discontinuation of availability of consumables (fuel and oil) for the tool are present. Say the task of replenishing your stocks of wood is not feasible due to the incidents around you prohibit from leaving your bastion of security and supplies in fear of losing both. A well put in base of heating source will mitigate the negative effects of your surroundings regardless of the current social climate or weather.

It is better to have and not need, than to need and not have. As in storing food to negotiate an uncertain future, storing renewable resources for heat and alternative cooking source alleviates the mental strain involved in acquiring necessities to further profitable existence. One less worry or task, no matter how ancillary, enables one to focus more clearly on the events at hand, and the tasks that are immediately dire.

[chicom]

A chainsaw is a tool, and like any other tool must be learned for it to be used properly and efficiently. The object is to achieve more than you would normally do so under manual power.


A chainsaw is comprised of many parts:

The powerhead......is the motor that drives the device, and the part in which the operator manipulates to perform the task.

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/chicom70/S6300510.jpg

The bar.......is the part in which allows the chain revolves to manipulate the object being cut.

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/chicom70/S6300503.jpg

The chain.....the actual implement that contacts the media being manipulated.

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/chicom70/S6300508.jpg

Each of these systems work in concert to facilitate the desired action of cutting. Any one part that is not operating to desired effect, will inhibit the other two in producing desired results.

[chicom]

So, now to choose a chainsaw. Like firearms, everyone has their preferences. I recommend either Stihl or Husquavarna. You cannot go wrong with either brands.

You've bought a chainsaw, are you now good to go?

Not quite. You also have to buy accessories to keep it going and maintained.

You will need 2 stroke oil to mix with gasoline.

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/chicom70/S6300505.jpg

Bar/chain oil to keep the chain lubricated. A reservoir in the powerhead automatically injects oil onto the chain while in operation.

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/chicom70/S6300504.jpg

Spare spark-plugs.

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/chicom70/S6300513.jpg

A specific container to hold your gas/2 stroke mix and your bar oil. It is called a Dolmar. The large compartment is for the fuel mix and the small for the bar oil. It is handy to pack while out cutting, and prevents confusing a conventional gas container with straight fuel, with that of mixed fuel. This container will provide more than enough fuel and lubricant for a day's work with one saw. The fuel side is 1-1/2 gal and requires on 4 fl oz 2-stroke oil. The bar oil side is approximately a little over a quart.

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/chicom70/S6300506.jpg

The scrench. A combination wrench and screw driver that facilitates most maintenance operations on the saw. The wrench part loosens and tightens the bar nuts in order to replace dull or exhausted chains. It also is used in removing the spark plug. The screw driver part adjusts chain tension, removes the air filter cap, and can adjust the fuel flow.

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/chicom70/S6300509.jpg

[The Stig]

Threads like this are exactly what we had in mind when crafting the mission of the website. There are plenty of places on the web to jerkoff over Mad-Max fantasies or UN invasions.

We wanted this site to be focused on actual technical conversations about the universe of subjects related to prepping. This is fantastic stuff and thanks for posting.

[RedJohn]

Yes, this is great information.

[The Stig]

Chicom, if you weren't planning on it already, can you comment on proper use/techniques (when you have time)?

I imagine it's a whole different ballgame to spend 5 hours a day doing it versus when I go out in the backyard to deal with a fallen treelimb.

You've also hit on something very critical here: we only have so many hours and so much energy. We have to chose how we expend them wisely and use tools that can maximize the results of the labor.

[bacpacker]

First post on this forum. If this site has topics discussed as in-depth as this I am proud to be a new member.
Chicom, great breakdown on chainsaws. One short bit I would add, make sure you have plenty of spares on hand, extra oil for the mix and bar, spare bars, chains, spark plugs, filter's, etc. Proper chain sharpening equipment can be critical as well.
Funny that you mentioned the Scrench, I would suggest having 3-4 of them around. I went out to cut some trees a few weeks back and needed to adjust the chain tension and found I have misplaced the Scrench. I will have spars for it.

[chicom]

Thanks gang.

Bacpacker, you're absolutely correct. Spare parts are critical in keeping the machine working. You just beat me to the punch.

Spare:

Chain, bar-nuts, spark-plugs, air-filter wraps, and those little c-clips on the drive gear, and files to keep your chains sharp for maximum efficiency and service life.

Files are made for specific style and size of chain. It is not a one size fits all kind of deal.

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/chicom70/S6300507.jpg

The air filter as how it fits on the powerhead.

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/chicom70/S6300511.jpg

The filter wrap is a removable, cleanable band that fits over the filter. I usually clean mine in diesel.

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/chicom70/S6300512.jpg

Next post we will get into tree identification and potential hazards, directional falling, and proper techniques in safely bringing down a tree.

[bacpacker]

Sorry to steal your thunder Chicom :) A couple things you mentioned I din't think about, The bars nuts and clips. Totally forgot them.

[The Stig]

Next post we will get into tree identification and potential hazards, directional falling, and proper techniques in safely bringing down a tree.

I'm really looking forward to this. I've got several trees to drop at the new house. I've cut trees down before but their close proximity to the house suddenly has me second guessing myself.

[bacpacker]

Stig I'll throw a couple of things I screwed up 1st hand. Being close to the house really limits your options a huge amount. Examine really closely all the limbs on the tree. How large are they, which direction do they go, Is there a twist in the trunk, is there a multi branch trunk? Take all these thigs into consideration. They can all affect the direction the tree will fall. You can notch the tree to aid in this regard, but it will not be the only thing to affect the drop.
Also make sure your cutting on a windless day, or at least use the wind coming from the direction to aid you in dropping the tree.
I was helping my stepdad and BIL cut some trees at the BIL's house. We had cut 4 trees already and had cut them up and removed the brush. So we were getting tired, and we started on the 5th tree. It was not very windy, maybe 5-7mph, but it was blowing thru the tree toward the house. The limbs on the tree were spread around, but it had one heavy limb closest to the ground, but agin pointing toward the house. We notched the tree and started cutting the back side and with less than 1/4 of the tree left to cut, got hit with a gust of wind, maybe 15mph or so. It pushed the tree back and pinched the saw on the stump very firmly and sounded like the fibers were breaking. At this point there wasn't much we could do except pray for no more wind gust till we could figure it out. Long story short, I had a 150' rope in my truck and we put a ladder up the tree and wrapped the rope back and forth between the truck and tree and was able to pull it away from the saw enough to get it out and finished cutting the tree down. It scared the crap out of me.

[W9driver]

From experience dont skimp on the bar oil. It is VERY easy to destroy a chain if a sub par or improper oil is used in your machine. Use what is recommended by the manufacturer on such a important tool as a chainsaw. Companies spend lots on R&D to figure out what will and wont work. Take their word on it.

[alaska]

I would like to add something I dont think I saw.
Something I learned in managing a small engine repair place. Carbs. You can get a whole carb assembly for around 100 bucks usually. I would suggest buy a spare one along with couple repair kits, be it a diaphram or float carb.

If you were ever under the gun dealing with downed trees from like a EQ or landslide you dont wanna screw with rebuilding one right then and there.. Obviously having a back up saw is even better.

Also a lot of places employ a younger kid to resharpen chain saw blades and then the store resells them at a discount. 7-8 bucks beats 20 any day of the week.

Just my $0.02 worth
Aweaome thread

[chicom]

Sorry for the long wait, I was waiting for some snow to melt, so I could dump some trees on my neighbor's property. Real easy trees to work with and photograph the process.

Firstly, when you pick the tree you wish to fall, it is best to identify the natural aspect of the tree and any potential hazards, with the tree or the surrounding. area.

For the natural aspect, you want to know what the natural lean is and the limb weight of the crown or top of the tree. These elements will determine the direction that the tree naturally want to fall. With coniferous trees, limbs will tend to grow on the side that receive sunlight the most, thereby leaving the opposite side of the tree somewhat barren, lower from the top you get.

In the following picture the target tree is dead center. Notice how the limbs are fuller and more developed on the left side (downhill) than the right, or uphill side. That is your limb weight. In the case of this tree, it will have no bearing as I intend to fall the tree downhill. At times I've had limbs on the opposite side of the tree, and contrary to the direction I wished to fall. Such an instance can be countered with the use of wedges, but be careful, the limb weight will sometimes cause the tree to spin on the stump as it is falling possibly endangering yourself.

As a rule of thumb, never try to fall a tree more than 45 degrees off from its natural lean.

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/chicom70/S6300881.jpg



As you approach the tree, you are going to look for potential hazards. First, look up into the top for widow makers, branches that may fall down on your head while cutting. Look for other trees leaning into your target tree. You need to remove those before you fall your target tree. Look at your intended falling direction for trees that will hinder the fall of your tree, or for loose branches in those trees. If your tree hits or glances off another tree, depending on the top of that tree, it will bend with your faller, but spring back like a sling shot, flinging loose material, or even the entire top back at you.

Next look at the intended fall path of your tree. Any dead logs on the ground may either be flung up like a teeter-totter, or cause your tree to bounce. Both situations are bad news for you. It's best to have you fall path clear of obstructions to facilitate smooth, soft landing.

Next check your target tree for anomalies such as frost cracks, lighting stripes, animal burrow holes, and hollowness. Each of these aspects could have a negative effect on how the tree responds while cutting it, possibly causing loss of life. To sound for hollowness, just whack the tree with a hatchet above, below, and at your intended cutting section. You will be able to tell when a tree is hollow in the core. If it is, skip it, and find another.

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/chicom70/S6300883.jpg

After all these safety precautions are taken, you can now engage in the falling process.

[chicom]

On to the actual falling.

You've pick out the safest direction of falling, so it is time to make your first cut.

Starting on the side that you intend the tree to fall, make a horizontal cut into the tree no more than 1/3 the diameter of the thickness of the tree. Stand naturally where the power-head of the saw is at waist level.

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/chicom70/S6300885.jpg

An easy way to know that your saw is cutting in the right direction of intended fall, is to look at the straight line of the molding just to the left of the pull-start handle. That line will tell you exactly how your beginning cut is pointing.

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/chicom70/S6300884.jpg

Next you are going to complete your wedge cut but cutting a connecting cut about 30 degrees either above or below your initial cut. I suggest to novices to do so above which I will show why later.

Now you cut out your hinge, or pie slice for the intended direction of fall.

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/chicom70/S6300886.jpg

Now we are ready to perform the back cut on the opposite side of the tree. As you are performing this function, be mindful of the tree, glance up at the top from time to time to see if the tree is beginning to fall. Make sure you have an escape route to the rear, 45 degrees either side, oblique from the rear of the tree. About 15-20 feet is good. Behind another tree is even better.

Now don't go full throttle on the back cut, you want to feather the throttle so you can observe the behavior of the tree, listen for telltale cracking, or to put a wedge in the kerf of your cut.

Wedging does two things. It prevents your chainsaw bar from being pinched if you judged the lean incorrectly, and coaxes the tree to fall in the direction you intend it to fall. Don't whack the wedge in there, but with only the force of your palm to seat it. As you keep feathering into the cut, bang the wedge in a little further with the back of a hatchet or hammer. Not to much though, you don't want to cut the tip of the wedge with your chainsaw.

When you can see the top of the tree moving, and hear cracking, its time to pull your saw out, and back away at a 45 degree angle. Never turn your back on a falling tree. If your saw won't come out.....LEAVE IT. A saw can be replaced, you can't.

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/chicom70/S6300887.jpg

[chicom]

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/chicom70/S6300891.jpg

Your tree is down safely, congratulations.

Let's look at what happened to our cut.

The space between your front hinge cut and that of your back cut is called the stump shot. You can see where the body pulls away from the stump through the forces of leverage, gravity, and inertia.

If you have to cut all the way through.........you're doing it wrong.

Basically when you are falling a tree, you are weakening its structure, and then letting nature do the work.

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/chicom70/S6300889.jpg

Now remember I said you can either make your secondary wedge cut on the face (front) either above or below your initial cut? This is why cutting above is a bit safer. So you have your face cut all done and are preparing to start your back cut. On your back cut, start to cut about an inch or two above the height of your initial face cut line.

In doing so, you create a block that prevents the tree from slipping off the stump backwards into you. Sometimes they do that, but cutting your back cut an inch or two higher than the front impedes such, and causes the tree to "jump" off the stump, directing all that energy towards the intended direction of fall. I've seen trees jump 20 ft before the butt hit the ground. Without such technique, the falling tree could slide back dozens of feet towards you and your safety zone.

This picture shows the stump, looking it at the front towards the back. Notice how the back cut is a couple inches higher than the front. This technique could save your life from a rogue tree.


http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/chicom70/S6300890.jpg

[bacpacker]

Great thread and extremely useful info. Thanks Chicom.

[RedJohn]

We just may have to change this thread's title. It is so extensive that it is no longer a primer.
Very good job!!

[The Stig]

This is fantastic information.

Gentleman (and any ladies that may have slipped in when I wasn't looking), this is what a kickass prepping thread looks like.

[TroubleShooter]

Ok..........I was going to post in my old fuel thread, but I believe here will do more justice. Recently I rotated my gasoline storage (year old as always, with fuel stabilizer) . Encountered a problem I have never had , everything runs fine on the stored fuel, except my Stihl.
I disassembled , cleaned put back together ....same issue idle rough, no power or high rpm. Stalls when going to cut.....

Was the stored gas, everything............. cars, lawnmower, weedeater(4cycle) , generator, compressor, welder all runs fine......But the Stihl chainsaw and also a poulan chainsaw all had the same issues ........Fresh fuel cured the issues..........

Apparently the octane degrades enough in storage to affect the gasoline when mixed with oil it becomes useless.........

Thoughts............

[bacpacker]

What kind of treatment are you using? I've not ran into this problem with the chainsaw. I have with my push mower and generator running like crap. I used stabil in my storage last year. Never had any trouble out of it before. It could be all the ethonal being blended in the gas going bad quicker.

[TroubleShooter]

What kind of treatment are you using? I've not ran into this problem with the chainsaw. I have with my push mower and generator running like crap. I used stabil in my storage last year. Never had any trouble out of it before. It could be all the ethonal being blended in the gas going bad quicker.


Using stabil and in airtite containers..........Going to keep a fresher stock for 2 cycles, would suck to be dependent on a 2 cycle engine and all your fuel stores were useless for them....

I guess it could be possible I purchased some bad gas and stored it......I still have a couple more barrels unopened , that were purchased a month apart from this supply....I will definately have to try them out and see if the saw runs...

If anything we now have a way to identify gas when it is going bad.........

[tompnoid]

Ok..........I was going to post in my old fuel thread, but I believe here will do more justice. Recently I rotated my gasoline storage (year old as always, with fuel stabilizer) . Encountered a problem I have never had , everything runs fine on the stored fuel, except my Stihl.
I disassembled , cleaned put back together ....same issue idle rough, no power or high rpm. Stalls when going to cut.....

Was the stored gas, everything............. cars, lawnmower, weedeater(4cycle) , generator, compressor, welder all runs fine......But the Stihl chainsaw and also a poulan chainsaw all had the same issues ........Fresh fuel cured the issues..........

Apparently the octane degrades enough in storage to affect the gasoline when mixed with oil it becomes useless.........

Thoughts............


you can get fuel additive to help it run or get a can of ether your 2 cycle motors will run fine once they run for a little they have to be warmed up some it allows the choke to open up. my boat motor runs like crap for a little while till it gets warmed up its because carbuerated motors aren't really meant for ethanol especially older models. but once you get em going they will be just fine. ether is a miracle worker for all motors just spray a couple of squirts to get it going don't soak it it will eat away at your gaskets this will allow the carburetion process to start with the air pulling across the fuel nozzle.

[bacpacker]

Your right Tom Ether will help get things running. You do need to be careful using it, espically with Diesils. The high compression ratio's they run will come apart if you use too much. Saw a motor that had happened to in a big truck. It wasn't pretty, 3 pistons were in tiny pieces. Heads were in really bad shape.
I use either to start my old Duetz in the winter, but it gets no more than 1 or maybe two short blast. Starts every time and doesn't need any more.

[Evolver]

A safer starting fluid for any engine is carb cleaner.

[Sniper-T]

A good additive, is SEAFOAM. That is what I use for all my fuels.

Trouble, how about getting a couple bottles of octane boost? Try a bit in that 'bad' gas, and see if that is the problem. if it is then you could add it to your stores

[The Stig]

I have to quit using my chain saw as a brush trimmer. I've gotten my leg underneath the blade and torn up my pants twice now. Both times scared the crap out of me.

[Sniper-T]

^
probably a good plan! Chainsaw bites are typically not very nice!
not enough can be said about the value of one of these:

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k241/Lafs1984/Portfolio/brushcutterblocking.jpg

[bacpacker]

You just gave me a thought sniper. That blade might be the trick for cutting the wheat stalks down.

[Sniper-T]

That one might mess you up even more. I know in tall grass it grabs it and balls it up. When I cut the cat tails, and bullrushes in the ditches, I throw on one of these: http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc511/danddchainsaws/trimmer%20brushcutter%20heads%20line%20blades/3Tooth10inchTotalbrushcuttertrimmerblade.jpg

THE best thing for grasses!

[Marthony]

A few safety thoughts: Of course one should be wearing chainsaw pants/chaps, steel toed boots, safety glasses & helmet with screen, but there is 1 starting cut that should never be done.

Most cutting is done with the bottom of the bar. Use of the top also has its applications. With care you can also press the bar straight into wood. What shouldn't be done is starting contact with the upper side of the tip of the bar; the power of the chainsaw will 'walk' the bar straight up and probably towards you! At full power this can happen with deadly speed. Hopefully the brake on the chainsaw will hit your forward hand/forearm or the bar will hit your helmet, but this is the one cut a novice should never try.

I did a 3 week course in log house construction a few years back - this was noted during the course. I didn't enter that industry, but have made a couple rough log chairs with my Stihl. Great times!

[Sniper-T]

:eek:

Another Canuck???

Woohoo!

Welcome to the board!

[Grumpy Old Man]

Sniper you better get working on your phone tree buddy! How about those Kings, eh?

[Sniper-T]

I thought I'd wait until members had a decent amount of posts in before asking for their, and giving out my personal information. Let's make sure that we're on the same page first, shall we?

[Grumpy Old Man]

Point well taken. Just glad to see we are getting some northern ants.:o

[Domeguy]

This is the best thread I've found on this site, maybe on any site. But I have one question, where can I get a Dolmer, the two tank gas container.

[bacpacker]

I agree DG. This is one of the first threads I read when I first joined. Great info in this one.

I'd like to find a couple of the Dolmers as well.

[Sniper-T]

strange... any hardware store here has em.... should I take orders?

[bacpacker]

Never seen em down here. I'll have to look around next time I'm up north.

[helomech]

Never seen them before either.

[Domeguy]

I have never seen one anywhere here in the US.

[Sniper-T]

I bought mine at the Stihl store when I bought my saw

[DeathValleyMike]

New here folks , but thought I would chime in here . I just purchased a new Stihl180 chainsaw . It's a homeowner type saw . The Farmboss or biggersaw is great for performance but the FS180 is a great option although less powerful and a shorter bar .
The FS180 Stihl was $180 new and will outperform any Poulan , Craftsman etc out there . It is smaller so it uses less fuel as well.
With the smaller expense and a great performing saw you can maintain a couple of extra chains, spark plugs etc on a budget .

[helomech]

I have a Echo and it has been a great saw. Use it a lot and have not had any issues.

[Sniper-T]

when I was still diving, we rented whatever we could get to cut our holes... Stihl and Husky were almost parallel, with the edge going to Stihl. An when You are running a 48-72 inch bar, these are the ONLY two that could handle it. I've posted pics in other threads showing 40" trees taken down an bucked up by my 16" stihl. If I would ever recomend a brand... this would be it! Mine is 20+ years old, starts on the second pull, EVERYTIME! and runs like a top no matter what punishment I throw at it!

[bacpacker]

Stihl's are great saws. I know several folks who run them and love them. I have used Huskys for years and have never had a single issue with them. A buddy of mine works for the state forestry division and he has used Huskys for years.

[eagle326]

I agree DG. This is one of the first threads I read when I first joined. Great info in this one.

I'd like to find a couple of the Dolmers as well.

B.P. ; Are you guys talking about Dolmar chainsaws? If so I got a big boy out in the garage with 24" bar and the loggers chain on it. I'll see what size it is ; but I believe it runs around 1200 rpm's or so.

[Sniper-T]

No BP, he's refering to a type of Jerry can, that has two parts... one for your mixed gas, and a seperate divided section for the bar oil; all in one container.. that way you can walk into the bush with the saw in one hand (case contains maintenance tools), and the jerry can in the other, and you are good for 8 hours of cutting. They are a little unwieldy when full, especially with the small tanks on a saw, but they are the cat's ass overall!

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=dolmar+jerry+can&view=detail&id=DEDB6A5DF132B1521333ABB074939C4F74319907&first=1&FORM=IDFRIR

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=dolmar+jerry+can&view=detail&id=4BB3AE57E03DB21BE9D1312326D81F6577335418&first=1&FORM=IDFRIR


I really don't know why they are called Dolmar's, but they always have been

[eagle326]

No BP, he's refering to a type of Jerry can, that has two parts... one for your mixed gas, and a seperate divided section for the bar oil; all in one container.. that way you can walk into the bush with the saw in one hand (case contains maintenance tools), and the jerry can in the other, and you are good for 8 hours of cutting. They are a little unwieldy when full, especially with the small tanks on a saw, but they are the cat's ass overall!

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=dolmar+jerry+can&view=detail&id=DEDB6A5DF132B1521333ABB074939C4F74319907&first=1&FORM=IDFRIR

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=dolmar+jerry+can&view=detail&id=4BB3AE57E03DB21BE9D1312326D81F6577335418&first=1&FORM=IDFRIR


I really don't know why they are called Dolmar's, but they always have been


OOPS ; My bad Sniper. I'll have to check and see if we have any around here. :o

[Socalman]

This has been a great thread. I have been on this forum for about a year, give or take and never read it before. Some excellent points. I am on my second chainsaw. My first one was a Poulan that lasted for about 30 hours of operation. My current saw is an Echo and has been great!

As someone pointed out, keep quality bar oil in your saw.

Another point, don't let the chain hit dirt while running unless you really want to dull the cutting edges.

[realist]

A Ditch Witch works better if you are digging trenches, its hard on the old chainsaw.........

[Sniper-T]

I could put this into the gear review thread, but considering it is a Canadian brand, it would be useless to most people here...

I assembled the chainsaw on a stick I bought a couple years ago, and trimmed some branches/trees around the house/garage. For a little machine, I am amazed at the oomph it has. cut 6" green poplar like nothing. And without a ladder useful to about 12' high.

This one:

http://reviews.canadiantire.ca/9045/0545759P/greenworks-greenworks-6-5a-electric-polesaw-reviews/reviews.htm

[Socalman]

Since we are into the winter season and storms of various kinds will soon be ravaging us, I thought I would give a little bump to the thread.

One item I have found very useful for trimming the trees on my property is a smaller saw on a pole that extends to 8 feet. Mine is made by RYOBI and is powered by by electric so it has limitations if your power goes south. We even used that saw late Sunday evening when we brought a farm fresh Christmas tree into the house. Even though the tree had been cut at the farm just a few hours prior, the stump was closing up with sap. The electric saw is very quiet and at 9 in the evening did not disturb the entire neighborhood.

[bacpacker]

Good point SoCal. Along the same lines, I have a fiberglass pole that accepts different attachments, hoes, rakes, saw blade. The saw blade is a pretty aggressive pruning saw. Works well for pruning and cutting small trees. I have some Bradford pears along my driveway that needs limbs cut back from time to time. I've cut up to 5" diameter with it and does just fine. The pole is 6' long.

[Sniper-T]

As an additional bump... with my messed up shoulder, I restrained from using my 16" Pro-grade stihl for most of the fall, and used my 'saw on a stick'... without the stick for most of my cutting. It has an 8" bar, and I used it to take down, and buck up everything up to 14" trees. Dozens of them. I was amazed at what that little saw could do... and the best part, is that it is so small and lite, I could easily use it one handed, and it was easy on my shoulder!

In a nutshell... keep your needs and your wants realistic! My Stihl certainly has its place, but as I just learned, so does my little electric. I am going to look for a small, but powerful gas saw to round out my complement. perhaps a 10"

[jamesneuen]

Oh! Not implying that anyone is elderly or infirm but stihl has this new type of start mechanism on some of their power equipment. Relies on you pulling the cord as gentle as you want to wind the spring, then when it gets to enough tension it lets it loose for a no jerking pull start. Just got one for my dad. He tore his rotator cuff and I picked him up their weed eater and chainsaw with that type of start.

[realist]

Ah but we are elderly and infirmed......... Sounds like it would be nice to have. My next purchase is a power pole saw, saves working off a ladder.

[Socalman]

Ah but we are elderly and infirmed......... Sounds like it would be nice to have. My next purchase is a power pole saw, saves working off a ladder.

Nothing like working on a ladder with a chain saw! A few years ago I was on the ladder with the chainsaw, trimming one of the trees in my yard when I had a kickback that threw me off balance. So, down I fall, down comes the ladder and the saw still running comes down just about a foot away from me. Can you guess why I bought that electric saw on a pole?

[jamesneuen]

So to those of you who frequently use chainsaws, do you use the standard non kickback chains our do you swap them out for the traditional ones?

[Sniper-T]

traditional... the first thing I do with a new chain for my Stihl is to grab an angle grinder and grind off the rakers... hang on tight and watch the chips fly!

[jamesneuen]

I've always loved the traditional ones. I grind mine so they throw out long strings instead of chips. Cuts so much faster and I can actually use the strips vs the chips which are just useless dust.

Only thing is that I can't let others use them. I loaned one to a friend and it kicked back on him and almost took his face off.

[Sniper-T]

James, can you elaborate on that? I've never seen strings coming out. sounds interesting.

[jamesneuen]

I grind my rakes almost completely off, and it's a normal chain, not a non-kickback. I have a 16 inch bar stihl that was an 18. I buy generic chains and go by the tooth count then put the joint link on myself. I went down on bar size and tooth count so there is a larger gap. On larger stuff that takes almost the whole bar it puts out strips a few inches long if I rock the cut. If I don't then it's just big flakes because the teeth get clogged. On smaller stuff it just pulls out strings a little shorter than the branch is wide, without rocking.

My grandfather used to cut wood for the Amish around us and claimed that was the best way to do it.

I would dig it out and try to post a video but there's nothing on the stupid island to cut.

[Sniper-T]

interesting... when my shoulder heals I will try that!

[jamesneuen]

Well, wish me luck. About to drop a 40ish footer with the father in law.

Being a genius is knowing half of what you're doing and praying that God forgives the other half.

[Socalman]

NEVER loan a chainsaw! Loan the wife first. She will work she she comes back. She may be mad, but she will work. Your chainsaw will not work, and that is a 95% guarantee.

[Sniper-T]

depends on who you lend it to. I have one buddy that I would and know it would come back fueled and sharper than when he took it.

Any one else, I would agree with you.

[jamesneuen]

Now that I'm back home and kind of functioning I can post pictures. None of this was done with my saw. The tree was 24 inches in diameter and 65 foot tall. Using the father in laws chainsaw so I had to get a little inventive with the cuts but it fell exactly where I wanted it to after pulling it off of the two trees the wind uprooted it against. Not bad for using a 14 inch bar electric saw.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g284/Dragonsworn_2006/1919448_10153819561467421_6284524600930648853_n_zp s1f5ohwex.jpg (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/Dragonsworn_2006/media/1919448_10153819561467421_6284524600930648853_n_zp s1f5ohwex.jpg.html)

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g284/Dragonsworn_2006/10590502_10153819560692421_5242282329396416230_n_z psnrx7bh6r.jpg (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/Dragonsworn_2006/media/10590502_10153819560692421_5242282329396416230_n_z psnrx7bh6r.jpg.html)

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g284/Dragonsworn_2006/252235_10153819561542421_9120702710258187524_n_zps qeomchsb.jpg (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/Dragonsworn_2006/media/252235_10153819561542421_9120702710258187524_n_zps qeomchsb.jpg.html)

[bacpacker]

Almost looks like a beaver got hold of that! ��

I have found if it falls where you want and everyone walks away it was a perfect cut

[Sniper-T]

lots of good firewood there. nice job!

[jamesneuen]

Yeah, the beaver chewed look was from the father in law trying to help because I still had staples in my back. After it fell, all I did was remove what I needed to from across the driveway and left the rest for him to deal with later.