RYO/DIY: How many of you make your own gear?

[mitunnelrat]

How many of you have made alterations to, or custom, gear? I was looking at my Safariland 6004 drop leg holster last night because I wanted to make it belt mounted. I just moved, and my discretionary funds for upgrading gear is pretty low, so I decided to see if I could mock up a substitute. Long story short, I was able to cut the front and sides off an SDS Industries double mag AR pouch and use the existing mounting hardware on the holster to mount on the rear as a MOLLE panel. Sorry, no pics yet. I didn't get any on my phone and the holster isn't on hand at the moment.

Anyway, has anyone got examples of their own work, or plans in mind for something they want to do?

[Gunfixr]

I've both modded gear and made some. I get some help from my wife, as she is way better at sewing than I, but have done some entirely on my own.
I have a 1911 hicap with a 7" barrel and slide, and wanted a GI style flap holster for it. Of course, no such is available. So, me and my wife made one from Cordura nylon. I also have a nylon webbing watch band for my watch, which is a dive watch. I can't stand those rubber watch bands.
I'll have to take pics and post them.

[LUNCHBOX]

First, the background....In some of the highspeed military uniforms there is a pocket sewn directly into the knee area of the operators pants. It is placed there so you don't have to wear adjustable kneepads (wear them awhile and you will understand)--I didn't do the work but here is what I had done (anyone with a machine could sew this up) to my bug out pants. I had the pocket sewn in and I use a cut-out made from a foam sleep mat. Three sides of the pocket is sewn and the forth is velcro to remove the pad before washing. (just for the record for a couple of you guys, I can get the combat pants and the inserts but the color is ACU so I made my own)

[AquaHull]

I'm in the process of setting up shop to make kydex and leather holsters and sheaths . First off I have to clean the pole barn , which involves moving and cataloging the preps . Then I have to put a ceiling on my room and insulate it . Then see if my secondhand heater works and fire it up this week because we already had a frost . Then there's the archery deer season that opened on Saturday . I forgot about the salmon entering the river

[izzyscout21]

I'm in the process of setting up shop to make kydex and leather holsters and sheaths .

Let us know when you get that up and running. I may be interested in a couple holsters

[Gunfixr]

I have some of the pants with the pad pockets in them.
What we did was to put on the regular strap-type knee pads, and get them where I wanted them. Then, my wife marked where the top strap was, and where the edges of the pad were. She then sewed some "belt loops" made from another pair of worn out pants where the marks are. They are hardly noticeable, since the color is almost the same. The pads are put on as normal, but don't need to be real tight. The loops keep the pads from going up or down or side to side.
While the pouches on the pants are ok, my knees are bad enough that a hard shell pad is much better. This allows me to do that, without cutting off circulation to the lower leg, and the pads shifting around all the time anyway.

[dragon5126]

This is another "where to begin" thread... I even went out and bought myself a small portable sewing machine, that was promptly absconded with by my oldest daughter to make things for herself and friends in their chapter of the SCA (google it, it pertains to what we do in many ways, they just use it to study and experience midevil history). I have made tools, knives, axes, hammers, clothing, tables, chairs, you name it. Some times its out of need others out of fun. I've designed equipment to fit needs when there was none to fit the bill, modified equipment to improve it or make it capable of doing something it wasnt capable of. An example of this is a rake harrow at the ranch. We have an indoor riding arena that gets groomed weekly but a big tractor will do more harm than good so how do we groom it? a garden tractor but that wont handle a three point hitch the answer was an A frame draw bar set up, hinged at the harrow. how do we move it about now that the size tripled? a pair of wheels mounted on the harrow sticking up in the air, flip it upside down on the A frame and the weight of the harrow pushes the wheels to the ground levering the A frame up off the ground supporting the hole mess on the wheels and the hitch. very simple and elegant. The Kiss principle. I've made holsters slings, power distribution setups, locking equipment cabinets, the list is massive. Basic metal working skills, carpentry, mechanics and textile skills can take you everywhere, and above all will be tradeable in the after.

[dragon5126]

Let us know when you get that up and running. I may be interested in a couple holsters
Kydex is extremely easy to work with once you have your forms made these can be cast out of plaster. If you have a vaccum food sealer available, or know how to heat shrink plastic, seal up the fire arm you are going to make the cast of, amd make a mold of it in plaster (pour half the container cover the plaster with saran wrap, make sure there is a generous overlap and no airbubbles, press the firearm in so that it is ALMOST half way into the plasterover the saranwrap then pour the rest of the plaster over the gun. let it harden all the way. Carefully remove the hardened plaster from what ever container it is in and gently seperate it at the overlapping saran wrap. the gun should come out of the mold fairly easy now and you will have two halfs of a negative mold. carefully carve an opening to the edge on at least one side of the molds { to pour plaster through} at the pistol grip. carefully align the two halfs and duct tape them all around and across to seal and hold them together AFTER putting some type of finish on the interior of the mold, I use paraffin wax dissolved in naptha, a pain in the butt to do but works nice on resin molding. you can use hair spray, any type of vegitable spray or similar. then just slowly pour the plaster into the mold IF you have something that vibrates that you can tape securely to the mold so much the better to eliminate air bubbles. [no jokes please] An electric engraver or a dremel with a bent nail in the chuck [think off balanced] will work fine. In commercial set ups they have a vibrating table top to do this. kill the vibration after you are sure the bubbles are gone [before the plaster sets up, so that it doesnt weaken], let it set for a good 24 hours. carefully open the mold so as not to ruin it or the positive model. If you were making ceramic items you wouldnt seal the plaster mold, as you would want the plaster to absorb water from the clay and it would leave the clay deposited on the sides of the mold). A simple press is used to shape heated kydex over the dummy of the gun, with a foam pad that forms the hot themoplastic around the form, and into the nooks and crannies that make it hold the firearm in place. The trick is shaping the outside of the holster into an ergonomic design to fit where you want it. The two partsof the holster (front and back) can be easily riveted together with simple hand tools just like two pieces of leather. Get a Small electric die grinder and some extremely fine polishing compound, 555 or finer and hard and stitched muslim buffing wheels for the die grinder ( these are bigger than dremel size, and the die grinder is easier to handle than a hand drill and easily clamped in a vise for mounted use) to finish off the edges and standard cutters can be used in it to cut belt loops. you can also lightly heat the kydex and cut the thermoplastic with punches. And before you ask. Yes I have made them before as well as knive sheaths. I have also made resin dummy pistold for leather holster work but found that resin dummies isnt that freat with kydex as they tend to stick together if the thermoplastic is too hot for the resin you are using, but plaster while not as durable is more forgiving of heat and wont stick to the kydex.

I hope both of you find this info of use.... takes me back to a time when I had more free time... ahhh the good old days.... Oh one more thing, if you want to put texture in the kydex just put a sheet of what ever type of textured material you want over it befor you press it, JUST make sure you try it with a scrap first to be sure that the texture material wont stick. it's cheaper than paying for the texture sheets that are sold commercially, I used Denim quite a bit, but you have to be careful when finishing the edged of textured sheaths so you wont remove the texture.

[Gunfixr]

Well, finally got to taking the pics of the holster.
The holster was made using two layers of 500 denier Cordura, with two layers of poly fabric stiffener backing, which is to give it rigidity. A third layer was used in the flap area, to make it easier to open. In fact, it almost opens itself. The edge was covered with a piece of 1" webbing, to finish it off and eliminate fraying. An opening was left at the bottom for water drainage. A doubled piece of 3" webbing was used for the belt loop. I actually found a supplier of small quantity military gear hardware, and acquired the "lift the dot" post style snaps. A small loop was added at the bottom should the need to tie the bottom of the holster down arise. A regular leather GI holster was used as the pattern, but the width altered so that the gun will fir with a light mounted.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k31/Gunfixr/CustomHolster001.jpg
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k31/Gunfixr/CustomHolster002.jpg
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k31/Gunfixr/CustomHolster003.jpg

I prefer the old style web belts to the newer ones. Here is the most basic belt setup, with pistol, knife, and pistol ammo. I use para cord to lock the holster and knife sheath in place. This keeps them from walking around the waist, and keeps them together. With this setup, reaching for either the knife or pistol is very similar, and since usually a space is open under the vest to get the pistol out, it also lets you get the knife out.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k31/Gunfixr/CustomHolster004.jpg

[Stormfeather]

I'm in the process of setting up shop to make kydex and leather holsters and sheaths . First off I have to clean the pole barn , which involves moving and cataloging the preps . Then I have to put a ceiling on my room and insulate it . Then see if my secondhand heater works and fire it up this week because we already had a frost . Then there's the archery deer season that opened on Saturday . I forgot about the salmon entering the river

Let me double tap that, I need a kydex holster for a HK Mk23 with a LAM built for me, designed to be bolted onto a leg platform style carrier!

[mitunnelrat]

I believe its safe to add "parabolic antenna" to my list of DIY achievements. I'm allowed to browse the web at work, but my work area is separated from the main building and is just a bit too far away to utilize its wifi signal. So, I did a little reading, saw some homemade antennas of woks/ etc., and took a chance. I bought an 8.5" clamp light today (required no additional assembly to mount it somewhere), some double sided tape, and the cheapest wireless usb adapter I could find. Where before I could only "see" three neighboring wifi networks, I can now "see" 18. On top of that, I'm actually able to get online. I've had it running for just less than 6 hours now, and have only experienced two, brief disconnections. This is through a steel building, with many other metal structures in close proximity.

It doesn't look like much, and only took about 30 seconds of assembly. All I did was tape the adapter to the inside of the light. These parts were chosen so they could be returned to their base components quite easily, if they didn't work, but they do!
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn165/mitunnelrat/IMG00242-20111007-2016.jpg

[The Stig]

http://lifesablog.ca/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/kick-ass.jpg

[bacpacker]

Excellent Idea Rat!
One of the campgrounds we go to has wireless, but it's across the campground from where we like to stay. We can get coverage but have tons of drop outs. I gotta build one of those.

[mitunnelrat]

My mom is interested in it too. She built a house on her property for my grandma, and is always looking for areas to reduce expenses there since my grandma is on a fixed budget - who is just a bit too far off from mom's house for wireless. Looks like I'll be building another.

[izzyscout21]

Let me double tap that, I need a kydex holster for a HK Mk23 with a LAM built for me, designed to be bolted onto a leg platform style carrier!

me too!! me too!! and also, if I buy the holster, will you throw in the MK23?

[dragon5126]

Don't remember my paraboloid antenna theory off the top of my head head to help you refine that even further, but to give you a bit of background for additional experimenting: The single biggest issue for WIFI is interference. It operates on 2.8 Ghz which is also used for many wireless phones (land line based) as well as microwaves, and door openers at supermarkets, which are the most common among dozens of other items. Unless you get the spacing precisely centered side to side and away from the back of the properly sized parabola what you will have accomplished is blocking the higher noise levels from interfereing with the signals they were covering up. These signals, when the noise isnt covering them are useable. with the noise in the way, they cant be heard. it's like trying to whisper across a small room with the stereo blasting. you found a way to turn off the stereo. There are many ways to build tuned antennas for wifi that will accomplish the same thing PLUS will concentrate the radiated signal (and the ability to receive a signal) in a specific direction, the easiest is called a Cantenna, if you want to google it. They are in no way this simple or as dollar effective ( hey a clamp light that does double duty cant be beat, can it?) but are worth checking out for the educational benefits alone. After the S hits the F, this would be an excellent system to have to communicate a couple miles as that range CAN be achieved easily with minimal effort with a pair of high gain antennas pointed at each other at sufficent elevation. I hope this gives you some info and encouragement to keep experimenting, and keep posting your results...

Great Job!

[mitunnelrat]

Thanks, and that was interesting! I already know I'll want to upgrade it at some point in the future, so I'll keep that in the back of my mind. At the moment, since I've managed to reestablish comms with it (as it were) I'll be moving on to other projects.

[rentprop1]

I haven't found a lot of gear for big boys, so I always find myself manipulating or altering something to fit me, I will soon tear apart a perfectly good, but too small Tach Vest for the mag pockets and other components, thank god my wife can sew

[mitunnelrat]

May be accelerating my antenna upgrade. I've found my connection is very susceptible to weather, so I thought I'd better mention there are limitations to this set up.

[mitunnelrat]

Got any pics, rentprop?

dragon, thanks for the info on the cantenna. After some reading that does seem to be a much better option

[mitunnelrat]

I have another project in the works. A friend of mine gave me a small hatchet/ knife combo in a cordura nylon carry pouch with a belt loop. I quickly realized it would provide a superior mounting platform for my holster due to its more rigid construction, wider footprint, and thin profile. I got the holster screwed on with no issues, and everyting aligns in a manner I can work with, but I'm now scratching my head on how to best add a MOLLE backing.

My current thought is to buy another tear away velcro panel and use some form of adhesive to bond the two pieces. I don't have the machine capabilities to sew it in place. Does anybody have any recommendations on what might work best for this, or alternative ideas?

[izzyscout21]

how bout these? Molle-lok


Molle-Lok - Accessory Mount - (Large) (http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/product_info.php?products_id=1802)

[mitunnelrat]

hmm... :D

From the looks of things those would bolt onto my hatchet sheath. I'll have to find out if the chicago screws they have for mounting hardware are compatible. If so, this will be the route I go. Thanks izzy!


ETA: Doh! I just read the last line saying it includes two posts and 2 screws. I missed that the first time around. lol

[izzyscout21]

they also sell different sizes of crews if the included ones are too long or too short.

[mitunnelrat]

Cool!

I can't wait to get this finished up and mounted now. This addition definitely carries my belt even further beyond the traditional "1st line" concept, but it gives me a very comprehensive package to work from.

[izzyscout21]

anything to be of service

[mitunnelrat]

Mission accomplished! Thanks again, izzy!
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn165/mitunnelrat/utf-8BSU1HMDAyNjYtMjAxMTEyMTItMTcyOS5qcGc.jpg

Now I just need to stress test and evaluate its effectiveness.

[izzyscout21]

looks like it turned out well. nice job.

[bacpacker]

Nice!

[mitunnelrat]

Thanks guys! And yeah, it did come out pretty well I think. Those 'lok's definitely made life easy on this. I'm gonna have to go small game hunting now to get it out in the brush and see how it holds up, but I think it'll be fine.

I think I've effectively gotten the full workings of a BOB just on that belt now... Food/ water, and their collection; fire and light; signaling; navigation; shelter; knife and tools... Some misc. gear like cordage, tape, etc... And the ability to defend myself. The total package is just over 20 pounds. I'll still have a pack to help make life more comfortable, but it'll definitely be smaller and lighter.

[mitunnelrat]

I got it home last night and quickly found an issue I hadn't thought through. The large MOLLE-loks are longer than my belt accommodates, and there's at least an inch of vertical travel between the two. I didn't consider there's no weaving to lock the pieces together, so, on to ordering small clips now and trying them out.

All other things considered it should work out ok.

[mitunnelrat]

I found some short MALICE clips and screwed those into place instead. Its locked in place now.

[digdug18]

I haven't gotten around to making my own gear yet, all in good time though. I've bought some patterns, fabric, and thread, still need to find a good quality used machine that isn't treadle driven at the thrift store. I'm planning to make a silnylon tarp and gaiters to start off. I have lots of leather working tools that were passed down to me from my father, but haven't bought leather to try and make a holster with.

Closest thing I've done lately to making my own gear is adding a strap in the wife's car to hold the stroller upright. Looks factory, I even added the car's make to strap material in red, and passed it through the interior plastic, it being bolted to the structure of the car.

[ak474u]

I've been adapting things in kydex lately, I made an existing `1 3/4" wide kydex belt holster that has a molded kydex clip with a 45* reverse barb for holding it on a belt into a MOLLE mount, that basically threads thru 2 rows of MOLLE vertically and one row wide, the lower "barb" retains it in place at the bottom, and prevents upward movement, while the upper end is too wide to fit thru the loop going downward, the clip doesn't move right to left at all either. I'm testing a different style as well, which is basically a clip that is split almost all the way to the top of the clip itself right up the middle and the split is widened to make the clip "straddle" the bar-tack stitching between 2 MOLLE channels horizontally, and still extends thru only 2 rows vertically, it uses the same 45* barb at the bottom as the first example. The link below show the photos, the one on the left on one picture is the original, un-modified clip, and the others are the MOLLE options I've come up with. It helps to be a dealer for the flashlight it comes with, I can get stuff to mutilate and "research" I'm going to have a run of OD holsters and clips run for my own personal use, and for some of my customers who'll be using our light with MOLLE gear now that there'll be an easy mounting option available. Not sure I like the 2-channel option, for the simple fact that it takes 2 rows of MOLLE, but as far as the modification, it was WAY easier to get right. Pics below

MOLLE clip mods pictures by ak474u - Photobucket (http://s993.photobucket.com/albums/af53/ak474u/MOLLE%20clip%20mods/)

[nepreneaux]

Found a Singer 15-91 with cabinet in like new condition the other day for 100 bucks. Works great, so will be redoing all my holsters and sheaths in cordura, lighter and flexible.

[mitunnelrat]

I found this since its something I want to apply to some of my gear myself. My AR for certain... Anyway, I figured I wouldn't be the only one interested in seeing this.
How to paint Multicam - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BZ5F4WjNNE)

[izzyscout21]

^^nice.

[mitunnelrat]

Sure is! I think I mentioned this to you before, but imagine our logo in the dark brown as part of the pattern... Totally doable with making your own stencil like this, and I think it'd be a great IFF piece on say, the back of a helmet ;)