Quick update, my YT play list...
Adventures of the War Wagon (Only 2 videos, Ill be adding more, as I get the chance to get off road and record) :
http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL0E05A5A23B56A396
Project: Diesel Warrior, 24 videos (about 2 hours?) of video detailing the WORK I did on the war wagon:
http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLFC32C8D342538549
Enjoy,
EB
Well I'll definitely keep my mouth shut. I'm a small block man. You go EB you 're on a roll, damn good intell!
Be safe.............the night is your friend.
Thoughts...
I have converted all ways...diesel to gas, gas to diesel....manual to electronic, electronic to manual.....
Life is easier when a donor truck is available.
As stated before , some early units will not start unless glowplugs or intake heater is working.....Know how to get around that problem.
Most early diesels will run on a waste oil mix, just strained thru t-shirt and added to diesel fuel...in the event shtf, disabled autos with oil in engine or hydraulic systems of equipment will provide you with fuel.
A diesel engine can be fogged with propane or injected into intake to extend mileage or in a out of fuel screw up....
Bio diesel or any other fuel mix ....recommend mixing when both fuels are above 45f.
Gasoline is a shtf way of preventing gelling and so-called octane boost to a weak diesel mix .
Rubbing alchol mixes with water and will allow the water toburn off and not freeze ....
The cummins is a good swapping engine but requires machine work for most applications.
The 6.2 and 6.5 are what they are but will work and has the most toys for aftermarket swaps.
6.5 pretty much will interchange anywhere a small block was, with minor headaches.
Just a few thoughts....
The 6.2 will swap with a tranny from a 350 or 305 also, both are 90 deg. bolt patterns. However the stall of the TC and some other minor things inside the 700R4 are slightly different... I think it may have to do with pressures and shift points, but Im not a tranny expert....
TS makes some good points!
EB
This info is from another forum, I used to frequent will have to see if it still exists...They always had good info..
The GM 6.2L and 6.5L diesel engines share the very same bellhousing configuration and bolt pattern with all Chevy and GMC V-8 gasoline engines.
The GM 6.2L and 6.5L diesel engines share the very same motor mount configuration with all Chevy and GMC V-8 gasoline engines.
The GM 6.2L and 6.5L diesel engines are about 200 or so lbs heavier than a gasoline 350 V-8. The bare longblock weighs just over 700 lbs.
The GM 6.2L and 6.5L diesel engines are dimensionally identical, and nearly every bolt-on component on either engine will interchange with the other.
A conversion from gas to diesel will require a hydraulic brake booster, diesel starter, larger diesel radiator, all engine driven accessory brackets, and fan assemblies. Your A/C compressor and power steering pump might work with the correct diesel brackets.
The automatic transmission torque converter should be changed to one rated for diesel operation. The stall rpm of a gas converter will be above the 1700-2000 rpm torque peak of the diesel. We suggest modifying the transmission governor setting to upshift at an rpm below the engine's governed rpm of 3300-3600 (if non-electronic transmission). An overdrive transmission is recommended. Low gearing, no overdrive and higher freeway speeds make the diesel engine hard to live with. Best fuel economy is possible when running the engine at about 1800-2000 rpm at your chosen cruise speed.
For anyone considering a swap, I'd recommend buying a diesel donor vehicle, swap all the parts in both directions, then sell the donor. This will result in the best and least expensive conversion. Buying all the diesel-related components usually puts the cost out of reach for most people. Older diesel trucks and Suburbans with body or other cosmetic problems are usually pretty affordable.
Converting a modern electronic diesel to mechanical is a no go, unless you have tons of money and a specialized application that demands it. That said for 4-5k you can take a cummins 24valve from electronic to mechanical and have a beast with the higher flowing 24 valve head and the fueling capability of the inline p-pump, its a great setup for a tractor pull truck, but the conversion cost is higher than the cost to buy the 12 valve engine in many cases.
The only decent mechanical diesel for power and longevity in a truck is the cummins in my opinion. The pre-electronic powerstrokes were durable, but lack the power that the cummins can deliver. The detroit (GM) diesels were never designed for heavy duty, they are great economy engines, think something like a V6 in a truck, but with even better mileage. They perform more like a light duty gasoline engine with better economy than a heavy duty diesel, but can't be beat for economy, with slight mods they can be quite reliable as well.
just get a pre-1998.5 dodge with the 12 valve cummins and motor happily along.
I guess for clarity we need to be more specific for the newbies in diesel. One when I say convert from one to the other....I am swapping complete engines, I am not attempting to take an elctronic engine and make it a manual pump....As CW pointed out , a newer electronic converted over to manual is next to impossible...I guess we should use the term...RePower instead of convert.Originally Posted by cwconnertx
I drove diesels in the "old days" I guess. Got my Ford F250 with the 6.9L International Harvester engine in the late 80s.
Fully mechanical, only thing electric was the starter, and there was a solenoid switch for fuel on the injector pump, but that can be got around. A panel on the side can be removed allowing the line pressure to be turned up a bit, giving a good power boost. Just don't go too far.
It ran a vacuum pump, so all of the vehicle's various accessories that run on vacuum are standard, like the brake booster. Bolted right to the C6 transmission, or to a manual.
The Gm diesels of that day were the 5.7L, which is a converted 350 gasoline engine. Avoid that engine like the plague. Every once in awhile one runs forever, and the rest are used to keep it running.
Suburbans have always had a diesel option. I have a friend who had one he set up to run cooking oil in. Had 2 fuel systems with a switch, since it won't start on cooking oil.
I would be cautious of adding gasoline to diesel. It lacks any lubrication qualities, and will shorten the life of your injector pump. You would have to add oil to make up for it. You could, in theory, drain a car of oil and gas to make a mix to run a diesel, but if you don't add enough oil, you'll kill the injector pump. You'd also have to filter the used oil rather well, for the same reason. Mechanical injector pumps are very close tolerance hydraulic type pumps. Lack of lubrication, or trash will shorten life considerably.
Liberty is not a cruise ship full of pampered passengers.
Liberty is a Man-Of-War, and we are all crew.
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