How to harden your home affordably!

[realist]

All you can do is make your place as uninviting as possible. As Sniper said that these guys use a chainsaw to go in fast and yes noisy. If they can get in and out fast that is all they care about. So what you want to do is slow them down as much as possible. If you live in a housing tract that is much harder than people living out in the country. Barking dogs help but from what I have seen they will not challenge someone with a chain saw. These guys want easy not hard, if we slow them down they will go elsewhere. I have a long driveway with a gate. Yes you can get through the gate but the house is hard to see from that location. I have cars parked out front so you can not tell if anyone is home. I also have an alarm system that I will be updating shortly. My nephew installed an alarm system himself that allows him to check his alarm from his smart phone. He said it was very easy to install. I will let you know when I get the info as to just how easy it is to install.

However if you live out in the middle of nowhere you have the problem of a burglar having all the time in the world. I have worked with ranchers that don't bother to lock their doors, not because they don't care but because they want to limit the damage. For these crooks they have been to the home for whatever reason before they do the burglary.

[helomech]

Drywall and insulation does zip, zero, nada to slow down most bullets. A 5.56x45 might start to breakup as it penetrates the drywall but is still a threat to those in the home. 9mm and .40 will zip through the front walls and out the back sans a hit on a steel pipe. .

A 5.56 with anything other than frangible ammo will penetrate much farther than 9 or .40.

[The Stig]

A 5.56 with anything other than frangible ammo will penetrate much farther than 9 or .40.

I'll have to dig up the test data but I've read in a number of places that the high velocity of the 5.56, combined with it's relatively low weight, means that it start to yaw and breakup as it penetrates drywall, studs, etc. You still end up with fragments but they slow rapidly and become less and less of a threat. That is why shooting from inside the house to out means the AR is actually "safer" for your neighbors if you should happen to miss. By the time the bullet penetrates the drywall, a stud, brick fascia, etc it the reduction of energy and mass means it's less dangerous to other folks (still dangerous mind you, just less so).

This assumes you're talking about standard 55grn ball or most self-defense type ammo. M855 with it's solid core is a different story. That will likely blast though things without stopping because if it's stronger construction. Remember, it's main goal in life was to punch through Russian body armor so a couple sheets of drywall ain't going to do diddly to stop it.

The 9mm, for example, while 1/3rd the speed is also 2x to 2.5x the mass. A 40S&W can be over 3x the mass. The extra mass means the bullet just trundles along with higher momentum. While the drywall and studs are slowing it down, it's not enough to get the bullet to break up. Meaning it's still a cone shaped mass zipping through space instead of irregular shaped fragments shooting off in odd directions.

I've got to get a couple things done for work, but I'll endeavor to dig into this. Perhaps I'm recalling the data incorrectly.....

[helomech]

I'll have to dig up the test data but I've read in a number of places that the high velocity of the 5.56, combined with it's relatively low weight, means that it start to yaw and breakup as it penetrates drywall, studs, etc. You still end up with fragments but they slow rapidly and become less and less of a threat. That is why shooting from inside the house to out means the AR is actually "safer" for your neighbors if you should happen to miss. By the time the bullet penetrates the drywall, a stud, brick fascia, etc it the reduction of energy and mass means it's less dangerous to other folks (still dangerous mind you, just less so).

This assumes you're talking about standard 55grn ball or most self-defense type ammo. M855 with it's solid core is a different story. That will likely blast though things without stopping because if it's stronger construction. Remember, it's main goal in life was to punch through Russian body armor so a couple sheets of drywall ain't going to do diddly to stop it.

The 9mm, for example, while 1/3rd the speed is also 2x to 2.5x the mass. A 40S&W can be over 3x the mass. The extra mass means the bullet just trundles along. While the drywall and studs are slowing it down, it's not enough to get the bullet to break up. Meaning it's still a cone shaped mass zipping through space instead of irregular shaped fragments shooting off in odd directions.

I've got to get a couple things done for work, but I'll endeavor to dig into this. Perhaps I'm recalling the data incorrectly.....

All I know is my personal tests, and even the 55gr FMJ will penetrate 1/4 steel at 100 yards, and put a very large dent in the second piece of steel. Sure the frangible, or varmint rounds will come apart, but not the FMJ stuff. Wood and dry wall means nothing to the FMJ bullets.

.40 and 9mm just disenegrates on the steel plates. Sure they go through 2x4's, but not sure how much energy they have after. Will have to try it out.

[The Stig]

Here's some info I found quickly.....more to follow

Summary
The 55 grain HP .223 has less penetration than any of the other ammunition tested. Based on the results of this testing, there appears to be no basis for concern regarding the over penetration of the .223 [HP] round. In fact, it seems even safer in this regard than .40 S&W handgun ammunition.

The hollow point cavity in the .40S&W round filled with material when shot through the wall. This caused [these bullets] to fail to expand when they entered the gelatin. As a result, they penetrated 8.5" farther than when shot directly into the gelatin.

When the .223 [HP] was shot through he wall it began to fragment and as a result penetrated the gelatin only 5.5".

Because the .223 [HP] begins to break up on impact, it has less potential for damage or injury than the 12 ga. in the event of a ricochet. The .223 [HP] is obviously safer in an urban environment than the 12 ga. with slugs or buckshot.

Additional testing conducted proved that the .223 would penetrate a car door or glass. The .223 rounds fired into windshields began to break up after entering the glass and did not retain much energy. In most cases these rounds split in two.

A Comparison of .223 Penetration vs. Handgun Calibers

The .223 shoulder-fired weapon systems (e.g., AUG, CAR) have received some recent interest as indoor tactical weapons for special operations teams. increased power, longer effective distances, and greater tactical flexibility have been cited as positive factors of the .223 systems over 9me SMG-type weapon systems. Other authors (Fackler, et all) have postulated greater capability for tissue damage and incapacitation of the .223 rifle cartridge over the 9mm projectile fired from handguns or SMGs. Negative considerations for the indoor use of the .223 weapon systems focus on over-penetration of projectiles and possible subsequent liability.

Our effort was made to compare the penetration characteristics of various .223 bullets to various handgun bullets fired into test barriers representing indoor and outdoor building walls. We felt that the following test might mimic shots fired from inside a building, through the internal rooms, out the exterior wall, and into another similar building nearby. A comparison of wall penetration effects by a variety of handgun calibers versus the effects of .223 FMJ ball, .223 SP, and .223 HP, under these same conditions, was expected to substantiate other findings reported or provide new information to those interested in this area of ballistics.

Two interior test walls were constructed using a wood 2x4 frame with standard drywall board attached to both sides. Two exterior test walls were made using wooden frames with drywall board attached to one side and exterior grade T1-11 wooden siding attached on the other (exterior) side. R-19 fiberglass insulation batting (Dow Coming) was stapled inside the two exterior test wails. To maintain test medium consistency, no wooden cross beams, electrical fixtures, conduits, or electrical wiring were placed in any of the test walls.

The test walls were placed in the following sequence to mimic shots fired from. inside a building, through two internal rooms, out the building, and into another similarly constructed building:

A. Interior wall #1 was placed 8 feet from the shooting position.

B. Interior wail #2 was placed 8 feet beyond interior wall #1.

C. Exterior wall #1 was placed 8 feet beyond interior wail #2. (Exterior side facing away from the shooter.)

D. Exterior wall #2 was placed 15 feet beyond exterior wall #1. (Exterior side facing toward the shooter.)

All calibers tested were fired from a position 8 feet in front of interior wall #l, so the bullet trajectory would travel in sequence through each of the succeeding test walls. Each caliber tested was chronographed and all firing results were videotaped for archive files.

The following results were obtained:

All handgun calibers exited exterior wall #1. This means they exited the "house" after passing through two interior "rooms," then entered another "house" to impact into the berm. The handgun caliber which demonstrated the least penetration was .22 LR Lightning.
The only calibers which did NOT exit the "house" were .223 (5.56) soft point and hollow point loaded bullets.
All projectiles demonstrated directional changes in their trajectory after passing through the first interior wall. The greatest directional changes (10 inches+ yaw) were shown by 9mm and .40 S&W projectiles.
Directional changes in bullet trajectory appeared to increase in magnitude with each test wall the projectile passed through.

The penetration characteristics of projectiles have long been believed to be primarily determined by a relationship of bullet mass, bullet shape, bullet velocity, and bullet construction. The penetration differences of .223 soft point and hollow point projectiles versus the effects from .223 full metal jacket may be due to differences in bullet construction. The differential effects on penetration due to bullet construction shown with the .223 are different and appear greater in magnitude than those encountered when handgun bullet construction is modified. Since .223 projectile velocities are threefold greater than those of handgun projectiles, the increased magnitude of bullet velocity might account for the differences in bullet trajectory and penetration distance. The deviated trajectory of hollow point handgun projectiles was also greater than the deviation found with full metal jacketed handgun bullets; again, possibly due to contact point deformation. The preceding study more than ever identifies the need for a personal emphasis of marksmanship and tactical fundamentals. The shooter is responsible for the bullets that go downrange. Practice, be aware, manage your trigger, and watch your front sight!

[Sniper-T]

I test shoot all kinds of things too. and on a mockup of a wall, with 1/2" wood paneling, 2x6 studs, vapor barrier and insulation, with 1/2" drywall on the inside... my 9mm popped clean through it, and still had enough to ring the gong behind it. same with S&W .38, and .22. I only have FMJ for the 7.62X25, and they went through and left a nice divot in the gong.

AnYthing I have highpower went through it like nothing. I do NOT however have a 5.56.

consolation. with any of the centerfire handgun rounds, a shot directly into the stud, stopped, or was deflected to the side enough to do minimal damage to the drywall. They did, however turn a section of stud basically to toothpicks. repeated shots in the same vicinity went through the drywall and rang the gong too.

[helomech]

Here's some info I found quickly.....more to follow

I would believe the hollow point would come apart, if they where using the cheap hollow points. I would bet lots of money that the Barnes TSX hollow points would not. A FMJ, or a bonded bullet will tear apart a wall, without losing very much of it's energy. I shot a 62 grain barnes TSX through the skull of a 160 lb hog, and the bullet still weighed 60 grains.

[mollypup]

What about using rebar across the windows to keep chainsaw maniacs out?

[Sniper-T]

it's not the windows that you have to worry about for the chainsaw dudes... They'll cut right through the wall, and open up a door sized hole beside the window, or wherever it is convenient.

[Evolver]

Got it!!! Get a electricians 5/8'' boring bit 4' long, drill holes through the center of your doors (all doors have wood cores) and insert #4 rebar (1/2") on 6'' centers by your lock sets. As soon as they hit the first one there chain saw blade will be toast and wouldn't cut much of anything after that.